yes I saw that......tahts one of the few that I could get. i wish it was sticking around!!
i think its the clutch guys. wheels moved with the frond end up, engine on and out of gear. i think it ripped the welds on the clutch plate apart. dropping the trans this weekend i hope and ordering a new clutch
Blew the splines to bits!!!! Damn thats some shock and power.
HANG THAT ON YOUR WALL!!!!!!!
I would be proud of that!
PROGRESS REPORT!:
It's on "the wall"....and a new ACT 6215104 SPRUNG version is in the car lol. The input shaft was a little worn but the new clutch seems to have a much beefier center section and longer splines too. I don't think it will shock anything like the unsprung did either......I got lucky!
I did a lot of cleanup during the clutch install. I cut some corners and I am now fully into fixing my small issues. I had the entire weekend and garage shop space to use.
-installed clutch. The new clutch is wonderful. I wish i had gotten it first. Oh well, hindsight. -mounted my AFPR to the firewall -mounted the coil packs to the intake manifold -deleted some un-needed wiring -tapped some old holes and attached the flywheel inspection cover with 3 proper oem style bolts instead of one. -cleaned up my fan wiring and covered with wire loom until i get my adjustable fan controller installed.
-i had an issue with breaking up under boost a lil while after my road test. I got that "oh fvck i blew it up" pucker up feeling.....ended up being a loose #2spark plug wire from the relocation i did. #1 came off once after that and I decided I needed to clean up the wires. I routed them the OEM way and then ran the extra length under the manifold a bit and then back up to the CP's. After that they stayed put and now its fine again. Scared me E36 M3less!
I also decided it was time to do an air dam and get this car some aggressiveness going on and better airflow. This was my first time riveting. Total cost @ Lowes: $25. Win. Rivets are spaced 1/4" down and 4" apart. I used actual ducting tape to hold that SOB walkway guard on the car. It was a fun project and i am now ready to continue the cleanup and make it presentable for the summer. It already makes power. Power is the ONE thing i dont need or want more of.
Some pics:
Are those 4x100 or 4x114.3?
4x100, honda lug pattern.
I just used clear epoxy to remold the bumper tabs as they were JACKED UPPP. I will redrill tomorrow and then the bumper will be proper again. I used Permatex 5min clear epoxy from Advanced Auto. Worked great and it is easily recontoured in an hour with a bastard file.
I ordered a Password JDM Red bumper release kit as the lip won't let me get jack access under the car, and I want to be able to remove the bumper as well as moving the mounting point to the outside.
I also ordered a front tow strap and TOW decal as I don't want to messup the FMIC if i need to have it towed. the rear has a large hook so that is fine.
More work!
-Properly mounted the Oil PSI gauge sender and ran the line with the oem fender harness and through the frame rail with a grommet. No more Zip-Ties
-The fender roller came in today. hopefully i can do the rears this weekend. those fenders SUCK with that huge ridge.
-Hella supertones are going to be mounted with the relay this sat I hope. i found the horn locations and this will be SUPER simple to mount up.
-Valve Cover I blasted last year finally got paint....wrinkle red. it's drying now. I HOPE it comes out ok. if not its gonna get blasted and done in gloss red. time will tell.
I am on a ROLL!!
PasswordJDM Bumper releases went on. I did the following for measurements:
-5" back from the turn signal on the fender, 3/4" up from the bottom of the fenderline -4" back from the turn signal on the bumper, 1" down from the bumper line. this gives you a 2.25" Center-Center width for the mounts. there is about 1/4" gap on our bumpers in the stepdown. take that into account. I measured thrice and drilled once. FUN project!!! The bumper now comes off in about 10sec. awesome.
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Valve cover had time to dry and got baked tonite. came out really nice. I also painted the wing top section satin black. It needed it.
I am doing hella horns and fender rolling hopefully sat afternoon. I gotta go try n find and pull 5g skirts as well.
Sunday I turn 32!!! wow. lol.
I got a bunch more work donw, and then i wacked the radiator with the damn recip. saw while trimming the bumper bar, so I had to order another new rad. yay. $90 so not too bad. I smashed the hole closed with a pair of needle0nosed pliars and it's holding lol. McGuyver mod ftw.
Done: -Wing reinstalled -valve cover installed -Hella Supertones installed -Tow strap installed
To-Do: -awaiting tow strap decals -still have to order an EVO VIII vortex generator -need to paint the bumper again after the work i did and redoing the fill for the hole I had.
That Rotella is some good E36 M3! clean as hell in there!
upload images
quick wash and a nice shot:
Did you bake that valve.cover in your.food oven?
Yep. PC and paint dont do anything to ovens. Been doing it for years.
Lookin' great!
I actaully just barely poked the rad with the tigersaw blade during the tow strap install....so I gotta throw in the new rad tonite...$90, not too bad. I get parts cheap. I used a buddies saw and the blade was way longer than I'm used to...i moved and it hit. stupid me, but not too bad of a fix. I gotta get some rad fan ties as well.
I'm gonna look at wiring up the auto fan conrtroller as well.....the factory fan switch is inop since the swap....the ECU and the mirage use different methods and i think it got lost in the wiring for the fans. an adjustable switch will prolly be better anyways. it's that or change the fan on temp in the ECU and find the ECU wire that activates them.
either way I want that done so might as well do that now.
I'm also looking at a head extractor for the hood. a simple and functional one. hopefully not too hoakey. AIT makes a subaru one that is ok
oh yeah...i need new exhaust hangers BAD. a 90deg and 1-2 regular ones. mine are cracked n rotted.
New rad is in, fan controller is in, and I just gotta do some manual tweaking of the turn-on point. It's setup for a kick on at user set point, and kick off when it gets to 10deg below my set point.
I'm prolly gonna set it for 180 kick on so it just never kicks off once it is fully warmed up. I dont see below about 180 anyways as that's the Tstat open point. timing pull starts @206 so i have to make sure the engine is running in the sweet spot. with the fans always on, the car sits and cruises @ 186-190 which is awesome. i can always mess with a 200on, 190 off setup...that's the beuty of a closed system :)
I had an issue with the laptop not connecting and i found i had only 4.4v on the pins...thought it was low, ripped into the harness....and then decided to move the OBD around. I put it back together, and then saw my link cable had a driver error on the network connections tab....like...WAT??? guess what? the driver went poof. I reloaded the driver and all is well. holy FACK!
car runs so nice :)
Wing is off for a bit :)
Looking good!
I think I mentioned it before but blacking out the door frame and adding a mild tint would do wonders for the profile.
Junkyard_Dog wrote: Looking good! I think I mentioned it before but blacking out the door frame and adding a mild tint would do wonders for the profile. PS your sig line is on point!! lol
I AGREE! the black door surrounds are on the list this spring. I think a light 45% tint would work well....I dont want it too dark. tint isnt racecar either but I could do it.
and some DSLR picts...the woman gave me the "DO NOT TAKE MY PIC" face, but I got her to smile lol.
I have to see if the wing will clear the bike rack for the summer LOL. I am also working on 5g mirage sideskirts and rear wings for better aero and looks. negligible weight increase.
I went and did the Duryea PA hillclimb runs this weekend (Not a race weekend) as well! I did 3 up and 3 down runs. wonderful day for some hooning! The tune is solid, car actually corners well for stock shocks haha. it's def gotta do the races soon. I need a suit/cage/pass spec first.
Yesterday i was looking under the back for where to attatch a rear diffuser. I want one of them in the future. Anything that helps plant the car more. i also got pics from a buddy who did flares on his 2.5rs. Hes running a 245/35r17 with huuuuge spacers and i think a bolt pattern change.
Some small things:
Repainted the front bumper, added the tow decals, painted the rear hook orange, shined up the headlights with OFF! Spray and racked it for the bike.
2,180lbs. Gutted after the front seats. Other than that it's full weight. I bet i coild get it to 2k with a full gut, half dash and front end lightening work ;)
Just to give you an idea, my old 95 with a 2.4l swap was 1826 LB in full FSP trim which means full interior but all of the lightest factory parts. It was a total franken car. 93 dash, 95 summit van engine, 94 1.8L summit van FM522, Only 1 outside mirror, No radio, no AC. It had the 94 Eagle Sedan front Sway (largest factory), whiteline rear sway, VPD wheels with 225/45/13 tires, cusco strut bar, and custom machined aluminum coilovers with koni inserts and cusco camber plates.
If you haven't done it yet, Definitely do the whiteline antilift Bushings. They really help getting traction. With the FM522 transmission, you can fit an LSD in it. I had a clutch style Kaaz in mine.
I just want to say how awesome I think this build is. Keep up the good work man! I'm sure the car is a riot.
GUESS WHAT????
UPDATES!!:
Found sideskirts today....total was $21!! Had a good feeling and went to the yard. I pulled em easily and went to fitting them. I cut the left side in the front, right side wasn't really cut to fit much at all. They DO fit....but u need a heat gun and self tapping bolts during the install. I will paint them when i get funds. The wing works well now. Rear pods are next when i can get a pair.
how to do a screenshot on a pc
Looking good. dirty but those sideskirts are totally sick.
the rear end is still gutted and prolly will be for awhile. i just like it lol.
I randomly have been working on an intake box setup, then I realized I was over thinking things...so I Did this:
$23 ACE Hardware intake. ghetto but functional :). One 90deg 4" plumbing fitting to an female insert so both ends are female, one rubber coupler and two worm clamps and cut the frame out. done. nothing modified with my current intake pipe. All air comes from outside the engine bay. I will be gold foil wrapping the intake pipes for better heat reflection. I need to get a new pass side fender liner asap.
I get a distinct Skyline GT-R vibe from this pic. Looks sweet!
yeah it does, doesn't it?
Future Plans (well, the cheaper stuff):
EVO style hood vent Rear skirt pods Ducting & heat wrap for intake/Exhaust
UPDATE: Intake filter ductng installed.
Cardboard cutout to check design, with 24x24 $10 sheet SS
After checking fitment and cutting main pieces before rivets:
Final shape and attached with a rivet and bolt. splash shield rear section can be seen here. Just in case of rain.
Bumper Installed:
I might tweak this with a top cover down the line. It is a work in progress. I enjoyed doing this :)
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