I think it looks great 
Just need to see it all bolted up
PS: Why cant everything be as easy as powder?
I think it looks great Just need to see it all bolted up
PS: Why cant everything be as easy as powder?
You might want to try physically holding the inserts in the sleeves. I've seen it done by staking the sides of the sleeves at the edge of the insert, or by drilling and tapping for a countersunk machine screw on the end of the sleeve. I've heard stories of sleeves coming loose and knocking the pin into the motor, or maybe that's just speculation, but better safe than sorry.
In reply to RX8driver:
I'm not sure about that. #1 the green loctite is stuff of legends lol. #2 there's really no way for the pin to come out of the sleeve without being sheared and aluminum isn't going to shear alloy steel.
Well, it turns out the previous owner or whoever decided to work on the car installed the sleeves and actuator rods backwards or... reversed I guess. So, the 5/6th ports weren't opening at all. Maybe it'll make a big difference having them function again!
Well, here goes.
After everything was cleaned, ported and polished I began reassembly. As I was installing the metering oil injectors, the two on the lower intake broke of in the holes. Threads had been chased after powdering the manifold. Maybe the metal just thought, "I'm too tired to do this again." Well no big deal until I saw that they are roughly $50 a piece. Took a couple days to stew about what to do before deciding to block off the metering pump and premix the gas. Ordered a block off piece from Banzai Racing in Indiana.Their shop is maybe 2 hours from me but, our mail system takes a week to deliver the two cycle oil and block off kit. During this my coworker and boss had been planning on going to a drag strip for a test n' tune. It was my coworkers birthday that day which turned out great. I had planned on going anyways but, really would have liked to run my car. Instead I went along and took some pictures and videos for them. Yesterday, I got my package from Banzai and I had a friend come over to help me with little odds and ends. Installing the intermediate intake, I'm pretty sure I had it on 3-4 times before it was finally set. HAHAHA. Everything went back together very smoothly. Tracing vacuum lines was a pain but, the diagram I printed out was a God send helping with that. We put the radiator back in with the shroud after flushing the engine and it of all coolant. Started filling it with water wetter and water until it wouldn't take anymore. Now, I need to burp the system and top it off. After that, I'll put the hood on, figure out how much gas I have in my tank and add the appropriate amount of premix, and then double check every little thing. HOPEFULLY, I'll have enough time over the next couple of days to get it ready for autocross this Sunday. After that, I may drive it a few more times then take the rear end out to get ready for the LSD unit I have ready for it.
Birthday boy's 65 Falcon
Boss' truck
Looks are deceiving. He was having issues with his wastegate and still running 11's. Should be in the low low 9's. PS: it's a cummins compound turbo diesel. 1300+/- hp and lots of tq.
Gotta enjoy the little things.
So, close.
Well, I am chasing vacuum leaks now. Did not make the autocross because of them. Went around spraying and found a couple. One injector o-ring got crushed and was leaking fuel as well as causing a vacuum leak. Replacing ALL of the uppers, lowers and o-rings. Remaking the ACV gasket and lightly right stuffing. Maybe it will run again before snow flies...
Installed new injector seals last night and RTV'd every manifold gasket except the lower intake. Still leaking somewhere. Probably the lower intake. 
what about all the vacuum lines that were used for the OMP system?
How does the intake boot look? Any missed connections there?
How can you tell it has a vacuum leak?
Rob R.
In reply to wvumtnbkr:
It's an S5 so the MOP is electric but, the oil injection fittings are capped as well as the lines on the vacuum manifold. Not sure what you mean by boot. I sprayed starter fluid in a few locations and it revved in a couple spots. I checked and double checked every line on the vacuum manifold.
So, I bought a cigar yesterday. Lit it and smoked through a vacuum hose to reveal a monster vacuum leak. It's exactly where I thought it was and didn't want it to be. The lower intake manifold to the engine. Turns out In the rush of trying to get it done for the autocross I neglected to thoroughly clean off the old paper gasket which caused it to not seal. New gasket on the way. I also received the stainless brake lines I purchased from a member on rx7club. Those should stiffen my brake pedal right up. To be continued when that gasket comes in.
Well dang I now have an excuse to buy a cigar!
Also let me know how much the brake lines make a difference! I have a set just waiting to put them on. But I want to drive the car and get used to the stock brakes and then install them so I can tell the difference!
The steel lines won't make much if any difference if your rubber lines are in good shape.
Its usually the brake bleeding associated with the swap that makes the brakes feel better.
I still think they are worth it on a track car or for some piece of mind.
Ya im sure my brake lines are originally ones and I got the stainless lines for free so even though it won't be on the track they are still going on the car. Why not they were FREE!
In reply to wvumtnbkr:
Tbh, they will. I don't know why people say they don't. I've driven with oem rubber and with braided lines. There is an obvious difference in the way it feels. Especially if the rubber is old. If you are replacing your lines, why not get the nicer option of braided lines. Safety first. I'd rather spend a few more on a better option than to get crap OEM rubber lines.
Anywho, gasket should be here tomorrow. Maybe, just maybe it will run tomorrow.
Yay! Idling a touch high.
Well, time to clean the garage and prepare for differential swappage.
Just did that one myself! No good way to do it it really all has t come out to swap it. Keep us posted!
Well, I started cleaning. Talked to my wife a bit about rebuilding the engine and she gave me a "soft" go ahead to save up for it. Think she's starting to understand cars are life 
Anywho, I went and got out the scope and checked out the leading spark plug holes to check apex seals in that small location. Everything seems in order but, you just can't really tell the status without opening the engine up. So, before anything is bought the engine will slowly be disassembled and cataloged. That way if something really is toast maybe the option would be to buy another engine. Brap Brap. If I do need a new engine maybe I'll go TII?REW? Where I will go, nobody knows.
:edit. PS. She said I can paint the hood and light covers
supercharged 3800. you know, something reliable....
I guess I missed where youre having enough engine trouble to need a rebuild. or is it more of a preventative maintenance thing?
In reply to Dusterbd13:
No piston engine will be in this while it's mine lol. It's more of a preventative thing. Car has 168k on it and I'm not sure if it's ever been rebuilt so. Might as well open it up to find out. When I tested the compression it didn't seem awfully good. More borderline.
Cleverfrog wrote: In reply to Dusterbd13: No piston engine will be in this while it's mine lol. It's more of a preventative thing. Car has 168k on it and I'm not sure if it's ever been rebuilt so. Might as well open it up to find out. When I tested the compression it didn't seem awfully good. More borderline.
Does the health/power of the starter affect compression measure in the same way that it does on the RX-8?
In reply to Harvey:
YES.
What are the numbers on this engine?
Yes. Battery does also. Cranking speed really needs to be close to 250rpm.
Numbers were about 90psi on each housing which I know is borderline.
Little blips from 2 to 3k. Smoke is from the cold.
Really though the main reason for me wanting to open it up is the oil control rings and seals. Smoked a lot on deceleration from high rpm.
Well, I successfully pulled the engine out last night and got it apart. The rotors look almost mint but, I'm questioning the rotor housings. Rotors have no chipping or any damage from what I saw. The apex seal were all broke right in half, which I know is common for OEM seals. The sides or the housings have grooves and I'm not sure if they are too deep or what. I'll have to go over the housings again to look for chrome flaking, I forgot to look for that around the edges. Here's a few pictures.
I've owned an RX-7 of each generation, and the GXL/TII's were such great looking cars. It's what every kid in the 80's would have imagined if someone said "what's your ideal fast-looking car?" Just a great wedge shape, clean lines...perfect. Of course, the FD showed up and still looks like the absolute sex.
Also, are those legit Enkei RPF wheels, or a knock off?
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