"If/when" you refresh the cooling system look into the "o" rings on the tube that runs just under the intake manifold.
"If/when" you refresh the cooling system look into the "o" rings on the tube that runs just under the intake manifold.
In reply to jr02518 :
thanks for the tip. Ok, so let's talk about a cooling system refresh. This is my first BMW (first Germa car too), and I keep hearing this phrase about BMWs. What all should I replace while "freshening it up"?
I'd say some elbow grease on a general clean up would be good start on the "freshen up". Plus it will help you learn more about it. I have feeling it's gonna turn out nice.
Indy-Barely Functional-Guy said:In reply to jr02518 :
thanks for the tip. Ok, so let's talk about a cooling system refresh. This is my first BMW (first Germa car too), and I keep hearing this phrase about BMWs. What all should I replace while "freshening it up"?
Hoses, water pump, fan clutch, radiator, coolant pipe o-rings, "octopus" coolant hose under coolant reservoir, hoses to and from coolant valve on the firewall.
Don't forget intake gaskets and PCV!
If you decide to cut the muffler off, make sure you extend the pipe jus past the bumper. This will give a great, aggressive tone and very little drone on the hwy (if you are using 3.07 or 3.15 final drive)
The answer with a BMW is everything that the coolant comes in contact with. If you are keeping the car for any length of time it pays dividends knowing what you have under the hood.
The next question is OEM or OEM supplier. Any thing less is a 50% solution. Then spend some time on U-Tube watching how things are done. Learning how the car "snaps" into place is a little unsettling at first, but remember to purchases a tube of silicone grease to lube the O-rings and you will embrace how much it all make sense.
Learning to "burp" the cooling system, is very much a curve. Might take keeping some, a gallon of pre-mix and a funnel in the car to keep it toped off just in case.
David
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:Ooooh, 3 liter V8- get those mufflers off of there!
And change the oil. Often.
The 3 liter supposedly had huge problems with acidic oil eating the bores, since they were bare aluminum with some coating process done that didn't work out too good. Also sulfur content in the fuel (the Official Excuse) which should not be a real problem anymore.
Wunderbar!
I’m in for progress too.
No working A/C and only one window that operates just won't do. Let's see what we have in here...
In reply to Strike_Zero :
That sounds great
In reply to jr02518 and Knurled :
Thanks for the advice.
In reply to Indy-Barely Functional-Guy :
Huh, those look just like the Volvo window clips that cost like $2 each. They were used on 740, 760, 960, up through S60/S80.
Looks like the clip that holds the ball in the plastic socket just came out. Put it back in, and fixed. Got a Win!!!
Someone else has been in here before, and left something behind.
Don't ya love it, when a pin err plan, comes together.
In reply to Indy-Barely Functional-Guy :
Passenger front and driver rear regulators broke this winter when my girlfriend attempted to lower them while largely frozen. Happy to see you’re on the road to greater interior airflow. Gut gemacht.
Anyone have any tips for repair or at least minimizing the cracking from getting worse? Not going to replace the dash. No motivation or $$ to do that. Just want to make it a little nicer.
Clean it up, some JB weld, sand smooth
smooth in some shoegoo, and paint with a matching vinyl paint
I've had decent (not great, but decent) results with 3M's vinyl repair kit. How good it looks generally depends on how carefully you mix out the dye. The trick is going to be that you need to get everything laid down smooth and firmly held in place before you start working with the vinyl kit. It costs about $15 IIRC.
FWIW - in my experience, the dyes dry/harden a little lighter than they look "wet", sort of like wall paint.
This greeted me when I came home tonight:
The blue thingy there is a blower motor resistor. Some internet searches indicate that this might might be the reason the A/C isn't working. That or the motor itself is bad. This is both cheaper and easier to replace. Hoping for a win-win.
The other item is a gas filler door hinge. Can you see why?
Du hast viel Arbeit an der Lebensmittelkombi geleistet! Großartig!
(Grocery getter doesn't really translate directly into German so if you called it a 'Lebensmittelkombi' to a German they'd be very confused, even more so if you called it a 'Lebensmittelgeschäftwagen' which some might refer to as a grocery cart, though 'Einkaufswagen' is probably more common for that.
The resistor helped my AC issues on my Navigator, last year. Hope it's the same for you.
Flush fuel doors are nice, but, maybe a string thru the zip tie to pull it closed might have been cheaper. Just funnin.
Before you know it, this car may just become a real gem. Keep the updates coming.
In reply to Indy-Barely Functional-Guy :
Do you have a pic of the fuel filler door open? I wonder if the metal door attaches to a plastic housing surrounding the filler neck.
I went through this on my Saab. My kids brought me the metal “door” one day stating it had “fallen off”. Found a used one on eBay and got it installed, only to crack it while reattaching the door. Yep.
In reply to Esoteric Nixon - Jordan : Stimmt
In reply to Esoteric Nixon - Jordan :
Dankeschön. and yeah, it looses a bit in translation.
In reply to Dirtydog and paranoid_android:
The fuel door hinge was really cheap. It's made of plastic, while the original is metal. The dent near the door broke the hinge.
You'll need to log in to post.
