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fx12002
fx12002 New Reader
11/2/13 8:09 p.m.

Hi all,

I am looking to put together a car for a local, ultra low-budget racing series with the following rules:

  • 1980 or newer
  • FRONT wheel drive
  • 4 Cylinder (or 6 with two deactivated)
  • 90" or longer wheel base
  • Hard tops only (No trucks, convertibles, sub-compacts, El Caminos, SUV’s, pick-ups, Imperials, or T-tops.)

I'd like to spend $1,000 to $1,800. This racing series tends to have a lot of contact and most of the cars are incredibly far from "clean" in terms of body work, etc. It will only be gutted and used on the track. Though the car can be as old as 1980, I'd love to go for something a little newer just as it seems more likely to be in good mechanical shape. Though probably out of my budget, I was thinking a Celica could be a fun option . . .

I realize I may be asking an impossibly broad question as tons of salvage cars could fit into the above, but any and all suggestions are appreciated and welcome!

Thank you,

Kevin

bgkast
bgkast HalfDork
11/2/13 8:22 p.m.

Neon

Esgedi
Esgedi New Reader
11/2/13 8:49 p.m.
bgkast wrote: Neon

Pretty much /thread at this point.

nepa03focus
nepa03focus Reader
11/2/13 9:01 p.m.

I'd agree that a neon or maybe cavalier will be the cheapest and easiest to source cheap junkyard body parts for.

Caleb
Caleb Reader
11/3/13 12:51 a.m.

sentra

belteshazzar
belteshazzar UberDork
11/3/13 1:32 a.m.

Saturn. The steel frame underneath can take some pretty good hits. Plus, the plastic skin over the top unscrews easily, and sells for $12 a panel at the local salvage yard.

Knurled
Knurled UberDork
11/3/13 7:44 a.m.
belteshazzar wrote: Saturn. The steel frame underneath can take some pretty good hits.

The front subframes cannot. Curbstrikes that only scratch the wheels can fold the subframe.

So, um, if you do decide to take a massive power hit and go Saturn instead of Neon, reinforce the snot out of the subframe...

fx12002
fx12002 New Reader
11/4/13 12:20 a.m.

Thanks for the feedback! It does sound like a Neon is the popular choice . . . from some basic research it does look like there are fair amount of aftermarket parts available such as a cage and seat bracket options so that definitely helps.

Any other thoughts welcome!

Thanks again,

Kevin

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltraDork
11/4/13 12:59 a.m.

How long of a race?

fx12002
fx12002 New Reader
11/4/13 1:36 a.m.

Not too long - generally 18 - 25 laps at around 1:20 per.

K.

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH MegaDork
11/4/13 12:49 p.m.

Cavalier? They're practically worthless

nepa03focus
nepa03focus Reader
11/4/13 3:56 p.m.

^^ That's what I was thinking, they aren't fun but they are hard to kill

fx12002
fx12002 New Reader
11/4/13 4:30 p.m.

Ah, interesting thought! I don't know a ton about them but they sure seem tank like which with the amount of potential contact would not be a bad thing.

Jaxmadine
Jaxmadine HalfDork
11/4/13 5:38 p.m.

Cant beat a neon. Might get a turbo one for 1800

mndsm
mndsm UltimaDork
11/4/13 5:41 p.m.

N/A only?

fx12002
fx12002 New Reader
11/4/13 5:49 p.m.

I've always liked Neons for some reason - definitely glad you guys reminded me about it.

The rules don't seem to care if the engine is N/A or not but because I may also use this car for skid plate racing part of me worries that a turbo would probably kick in in exactly the wrong moment. Can be managed I am sure though.

mndsm
mndsm UltimaDork
11/4/13 5:53 p.m.

Say it with me kids. MX6 GT! Turbo, bulletproof, awesome, and cheap!

MichaelYount
MichaelYount Reader
11/4/13 7:12 p.m.

Do the rules require fwd?

fx12002
fx12002 New Reader
11/4/13 8:07 p.m.

Hi,

Yes, the rules do require FWD. RWD would be my first choice, but the car will be used for two different events. A normal FWD race (for example http://kevinzanit.wordpress.com/2013/10/29/endurance-skid-plate-racing-irwindale-speedway/) and then a "Skid Plate" race (http://goo.gl/TfQnSz).

Thanks!

Kevin

ShadowSix
ShadowSix Dork
11/4/13 8:20 p.m.
GameboyRMH wrote: Cavalier? They're practically worthless

True, and durable (as has been mentioned) but go drive a 5-spd Neon and a 5-spd Cavalier back-to-back. The Neon is a gas to drive and the Cavalier is just a chore. Neon is the answer.

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH MegaDork
11/5/13 7:57 a.m.

I know the Neons drive way better, but I figured since there would be "a lot of contact" and the emphasis is on keeping it cheap, those factors might outweigh the Cavalier's general crappiness.

sethmeister4
sethmeister4 Dork
11/5/13 11:58 a.m.

1st gen Altima or any 90's Sentra. There are always a crapload of Altimas in the junkyard, and they have a pretty stout 2.4 liter 4 cylinder. Gut, add oil, and go!

dennisg
dennisg New Reader
11/6/13 10:42 p.m.

A ford Fiesta was of the time you describe and the ones which came with the higher output engine were good. The others with std motors were disappionting. A Cavalier is not much good for anything.

MadScientistMatt
MadScientistMatt UltraDork
11/7/13 7:34 a.m.

The first thing that came to mind here was Neon, but an early '90s Escort GT could also fit the bill pretty well.

ShadowSix
ShadowSix Dork
11/7/13 9:34 a.m.

In reply to MadScientistMatt:

The '90's Escort GT was another REALLY fun car, but when I was looking for one a few years back for a winter beater they were VERY rare on the ground in Ohio. The ones I found were well-priced ($1000-1500 I think) but there were only maybe five for sale in the whole state. I ended up with a B13 Sentra instead, but I miss the hatch.

I wonder what happened to all the EGTs? I felt like they sold pretty well back in the day, they certainly didn't rust any worse than the j-tin of the era, was there some mechanical flaw that killed them all?

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