Mint
Got 2 sets of these and bolted them in, drilled through the floor and used big washers and nylocks, got a kit off of eBay for the seat bolts, somehow they were the right thread pitch to just bolt into the seats.
I sacrificed leg room for a little bit of reclining to save my back. Well worth it. Once the seats are a little broken in they're gonna be mad comfy.
Got rid of the crappy carpet that was only on the front half of the rubber mat? Weird. I vacuumed it out and it's pretty nice underneath, need to wipe it out with a wet rag to get the gravel dust off it.
Center console is probably next if I can find one. Need a 98+ auto 2wd. 
Solid 8+ inches for custom subwoofer box?
SUBWOOFER
WIRING
ITS RAINING.. which sucks. Seems like it's done nothing but rain in Missoura. Don't want to wire the 12v in the rain.
Got the Skar IX-10 D4 200/400 W
Amp is the SK-M5001D 500 W
Absolutely thumping.. major shenanigans will ensue. Doesn't compare to some of my friends cateye with 2 12s or a 2008 focus pushing 1200 watts to 2 12s but it's actually reasonable to listen to music with, which is everything I needed and wanted
Things to do:
Remount amp
Clean up wiring
Clean floors detail interior
Undo middle seatbelt setup (may have to wait, forgot star bits at school)
Remounted amp under passenger seat.. cleaned up the wiring.. it's somewhat visible as I ran my remote wire and rcas through the shifter floor mat hole but it's all ziptied together and coiled where it needs to be do it looks nice. fuse went under the jack and jack cover so that's hidden too. Cleaned the floors and she's good to go.
Mmm love when it's 100° and the ac decides it doesn't want to switch to the main doors.. at first thought I had a leak, but luckily I just did HVAC in school so I was just able to look through and pinpoint the controls not having vacuum
Alright small ish update..
Blew the sub up... 500 watts from the amp does not go to a 200/400 watt sub well.. lasted me probably 2 weeks before it started clipping really bad. Basically ignored the break in period because it is my first experience with a sub. Got it returned before the 30 days so I will spring for the 500-800 just to keep it safe.
Got a job so truck budget went up but free time went straight down. Off this weekend so I'm going to try going to the junkyard to find sway bars (what size should I be looking for?) and possibly a bravada front bumper. I'll be ordering the lowering kit in the next week or so. Have been trying to decide what I want to do with wheels.
I really like these, I don't know if I've seen another s10 with anything like that. Will probably need 1" spacers. Everyone I've talked to says 5x120 will fit on 5x4.75 no problem but my question is do I need to get adapters just to be safe?
I'm really torn between these two. I really like white wheels so the top ones are what I think I'm going to get. They're basically the same price after special ordering from aodhan.
Luckily I'm not gonna spring for these for a while so I can just stew over it for a few months.
Got em for $250
Achtung dm11s
5x120 15x8 et25
Kinda beat but in gonna refinish them to the best of my ability but it doesn't matter because I'm gonna daily them so I won't feel bad about beating on them more
Anyone have any primer and paint suggestions?
I use duplicolor wheel paint and ckear. Been happy with it.
In reply to Gambit0117 :
I used the bug deflector until it was cracked by a big rock. Removing it I picked up Very close to 2 mpg on a full sized version. Your smaller truck ( which I admire greatly ) probably would only save 1 mpg.
I've a friend in New Mexico who is now going on 430,000 miles with only one clutch replacement. Skilled careful drivers will get 250,000 before replacement is needed.
He is careful about changing oil on schedule. Using synthetic he runs it to 5000 miles before oil changes. But once 1/4 quart low he adds it back.
Brakes he's getting close to 80,000 miles before replacing pads/ linings. Goodyear wranglers require replacement at the same time. The truck is on the original alignment. But he uses it mainly on freeways. As you know the roads in New Mexico tend towards terrible to dirt.. transmission is flushed at 60,000 miles differential is flushed at 100,000 plugs never go more than 50,000 miles. Or gas mileage suffers. Air filters are 30,000 between replacement. and he carefully wipes the cleaner housing when replacing.
His goal is a million miles and I believe with his attention to maintenance he has a chance.
In reply to frenchyd :
Yeah I never drove it with the big shield, I need to get a bed cover to pick up 1 or 2 more mpg.. maybe hit 25 mpg.
Have one completely painted white. Took a can per wheel basically, gonna let it cure for a bit and then clear over. Got the second ones barrel painted using what was left of the first can
Also perfectly good center caps.. PO didn't peel off the protective film for some reason. Deciding if I want to keep this or do red center caps
Yikes, been a while.. finished the wheels after a few months, just kinda lost motivation not wanting to spend a grand on tires and lowering kit at the moment. It started leaking coolant out the back of the block, im assuming freeze plug as it's random wether or not it will leak a little nightly. Haven't had the time to yank the transmission to replace it but it's not a huge deal but annoying. Been debating getting a beater and swapping it, or getting something else and just continuing to beat on the s10. Thinking into the future but what swaps other than a 4.3 wouldn't require a transmission/rear end swap, just an engine harness whatever. Could I 350 swap it with the s10 t5? Currently my optimal plan is 5.3 or 6.0 with a ar5 out of a solstice. Ive rebuilt ax5s out of wranglers at school and from my understanding they are related so I wouldn't be unfamiliar if I need to resynchro it. I have built LSs but never swapped one. This is probably my best bet but also the most expensive. My problem is I think I'd have to reengineer the suspension and put an 8.8 in. What's everyone's opinion? I would definitely destroy the rear end with anything more than stock power of what feels like 60 hp
4/4 drop arrived
Coolant leak much worse with current Missouri weather. Might be dropping the trans and replacing freeze plug tm at school and lowering kit tuesday. Any opinions on rubber freeze plugs?
Low low
Had a hiccup with brake caliper pins right as we were finishing up yesterday so the s10 got confined to lift jail last night because the teachers won't let us drive home on something sketchy.. good thing because the alignment was off by 3° toe in opposite directions.. got that taken care of pretty quick with some tie rod adjustment
New lower ball joints, sway bar end links, spindles.
To do: brakes, wheels, tires
That might be the cleanest S10 I've seen, they have all rusted away here...
In reply to automotiveflux :
Other than the dented and beat to crap bed and the door dings and the repainted fenders and bumpers and mismatched tailgate it's mint.. don't think PO could see very well
Got brakes and wheel bearings done. Power stop calipers and the evolution ceramic pads. Messed with test fitting the wheels, will probably need an inch+ spacer as it was sitting on the tie rod
Whoo boy.. long time no update. Finished school up, started a full time tech job at a huge off road shop. Decided I wanted to finally put those wheels on. 1.5 spacers all around and the cheapest ebay tires I could find. Cat imploded so I moved a glasspack there and one of my dads old v6 mustang mufflers at an axle dump
That looks slick. I see white wheels and the upkeep of keeping them clean terrifies me.
Yeah the gonna ceramic them and just power wash them off weekly
Bracket delete...
Bolted in half an f250 bumpstop we had lying around the shop
Rides way smoother.
Anyone have any tips on a t5 and vortec 350 swap into this rig. Might fall into what I assume is a Camaro non world class t5 and vortec 350. I think I can run stock rear end and driveshaft till I blow them up and then swap to 8.8 or blazer limited slip rear end. Front end wise I think I just need a radiator, headers, intake, carb, clutch, motor mounts?
In reply to Gambit :
The "trick" to putting a 350 into the S10 is to use the Corvette short water pump and accessories. It will be crowded but bolt in.
If your radiator is in decent shape. And you are reasonable you can get by with the one you have with minor adjustment.
Yes, watch the temps but the trucks will live at anything below boiling water. That's 212 degrees, unless you have a pressurized system ( which you do ) then it will take 235 degrees. Once you add antifreeze the boiling point gets to 250 degrees.
The trouble is where the temp is measured. In the center of the engine temps are much hotter than where the temp sender is located.
So as a general rule try to stay under 225.
Since you have a T5 already, that too will survive if you are sensitive. Dump the clutch? Plan on dumping the transmission as well but if you are careful it will last a very long time. Long enough to save money to buy something that will take the abuse. A T 5 from a Camaro is stronger than the T5 in an S10. Then there are aftermarket transmissions that will take a lot of abuse.
In reply to Gambit :
If you are looking to keep air conditioning, a thin electric fan is a good idea. Even if you aren't, it'll give you more room to work with. A 4.3 radiator or a C4 radiator should do fine. I'm not sure if 2nd gen S10s suffered as much as 1st gen models, but getting the air to go through the radiator is the big issue. Don't get rid of any of the front end pieces made to direct the airflow.
A non-WC T5 likely won't hold up to much abuse behind a 350(heck, even a WC one would be marginal if you go drag racing), but if you baby it enough, it'll stay together. A third gen Camaro T5 will have a different tail shaft housing due to having the torque arm mount, but it should fit under the s10 fine. Someone else please correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the third gen T5 canted a little bit towards the driver? Not sure if that will cause a problem.
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