Curious why you chose the RT660 vs the new Vitour, or CRS V2 or RE71RS?
Curious why you chose the RT660 vs the new Vitour, or CRS V2 or RE71RS?
In reply to docwyte :
Well, partially available sizing and partially ignorance.
The wheels I bought from Apex were 17x8.5, which is the widest they recommend for people running OE width springs (aka- my current Bilstein B12 setup). They recommend 235/40/17 tires for them on their E82 fitment guide:
https://apexwheels.com/fitment-guides/bmw/1-series/bmw-e82-e88-1-series-wheel-and-tire-fitment-guide?srsltid=AfmBOopXWcRZmZzvoM6ekGQjf6qkBlohAfZJf4wnwmxXEAngCd9yBRkA
They mention being able to run a 235/45 or 245/40, but that I might run into some clearance issues, so I decided to stick with 235/40's. The Vitour and RE71RS aren't available in a 235/40.
I honestly wasn't aware of just how fast the CR-S is. That'll teach me not to do more research! Although I am curious about the new RT660+ (that I ordered), as Andy Hollis' most recent test showed it being faster than the old, "regular" RT660.
I wouldn't be too concerned, you'll have fun no matter what tire are on the car on track. I doubt the trophy gets any bigger if you go 0.5 seconds faster.
In reply to roninsoldier83 :
What's the back spacing on the Apex wheels you purchased?
(Edit: I clicked your link after posting and saw ET40 - so I answered my own question)
....Curious because I had some 135i Style 264 wheels:
Front: 18x7.5" ET49 and 215/40R18
Rear: 18x8.5" ET52 and 245/35R18
And the fit was perfect on my 128i
In reply to roninsoldier83 :
I'm probably going to try the CRS next for track use, but am curious about the Vitour's...
adam525i said:I wouldn't be too concerned, you'll have fun no matter what tire are on the car on track. I doubt the trophy gets any bigger if you go 0.5 seconds faster.
I agree with this sentiment. According to Andy Hollis, the CR-S seemed like it made a ton of grip without giving much feedback, whereas he seemed to enjoy the manners of the RT660. I feel like it will be a good time.
I ran the previous gen RT660 on my STX 128i and really liked them during TTs and HPDEs. They give feedback, take heat well and provide consistent laps. For autocross they aren't at the pointy end, but weren't too far off pace on a warm day, either. Supposedly the changes in the + version make them a bit more consistent, which would be helpful.
The CR-S is a great tire, definitely faster, but I don't think they are easier to drive.
After almost a year of this thing sitting around on my garage floor, I finally got around to installing a 135i oil cooler onto my 128i.
Be forewarned, while it's an OEM setup, and nothing is technically difficult per se, this is a fairly long, in-depth install. Plan on this taking you at least a day in the garage, maybe two if you're slow, like me.
I took about ~50 photos of the operation and it took me about 6-7 hours to write everything up yesterday. I tried to add as much detail as I could, to hopefully help someone with this install in the future.
Feel free to check out the write-up:
It's been a long road to prepping this thing for track work, but I'm almost there.
I just installed a set of Hawk ER-1 endurance pads, rotors, ECS Tuning stainless steel braided lines, and bled everything with Castrol SRF fluid.
To the engineer that decided to put those extra two lines in the rear above the subframe: who hurt you and why did you feel the need to take it out on the rest of us?
I just got done writing everything up:
I'm doing a lot of remedial service on a 130i this week and need a second car soon and this isn't helping
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I figured the first couple pages of this thread where I listed everything I needed to do to fix this pile of bolts would have scared most people away 
130i? Are you in the UK? If BMW would have brought the 130i hatch here I likely would have bought it.
In reply to roninsoldier83 :
I'm in NE Ohio. Could have sworn that it's a 130, will know for sure tomorrow. It is, of course, a convertible.
I didn't see you needing to do much on the first page, just maintenance like suspension and emissions stuff. All cars need that. The water pump seems to go after 10 years or so and usually fail like yours, no communication with the DME. They default to max speed and most people ignore it.
For whatever reason, the plastic cooling system parts are immortal here. Hey, at least we get something back for being in an area where cars rust audibly!
I feel your pain on those brakelines from the subframe to the car. They're clearly designed to go on one side first (I think car side) and then the subframe goes in and you connect them with decent access. I did it the opposite when I swapped in my subframe and didn't realize until I had it in and at that point I wasn't removing it so I had to fight them.
I had lost more fluid and ended up needing to do the bleed through INPA (ISTA has a procedure too but didn't seem as thorough) a few times to get a pedal I was happy with. I was surprised how much old fluid was hiding in the ABS/DSC unit even after doing my normal pressure bleed, I'd say it is worth doing next season when you freshen up the fluid again it get a more complete flush.
Do you have an event in mind yet?
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I don't believe they ever brought the 130i here to the US. Overseas they made the 130i, which is essentially a hatchback version based on the same chassis. I'm not sure if they made the 130i in a coupe model overseas? Either way, the 130i has somewhat of the same engine- the N52 in the earlier years (same as us), but received the DISA 3SIM for more power. The later years in Europe received the N53 engine, which is essentially the same as the N52, but with direct injection for a few extra ponies.
Here in the US we only got the 128i and the 135i, and only in either a coupe or convertible (no hatch).
The main difference in this generation of cars (3-series, 5-series, X1, X3, X5, Z4) with either the 28i or 30i badge is just the 3SIM. It's the same N52 motor otherwise- except for some of them (mostly in California) that got the N51 engines that have a 28i badge- they have lower compression ratio than the N52, but come with the 3SIM from the factory to help them recoup some of the lost power from the lower compression (technically they're all rated around 230bhp if they have a 28i badge and around 255bhp if they have a 30i badge).
Pete. (l33t FS) said:I'm doing a lot of remedial service on a 130i this week and need a second car soon and this isn't helping
Same thing happened to me last July. Wish I held out for a manual (or a slick top) but it's still a riot.
In reply to OHSCrifle :
That's exactly the droid that I'm looking for.
adam525i said:I feel your pain on those brakelines from the subframe to the car. They're clearly designed to go on one side first (I think car side) and then the subframe goes in and you connect them with decent access. I did it the opposite when I swapped in my subframe and didn't realize until I had it in and at that point I wasn't removing it so I had to fight them.
I had lost more fluid and ended up needing to do the bleed through INPA (ISTA has a procedure too but didn't seem as thorough) a few times to get a pedal I was happy with. I was surprised how much old fluid was hiding in the ABS/DSC unit even after doing my normal pressure bleed, I'd say it is worth doing next season when you freshen up the fluid again it get a more complete flush.
Do you have an event in mind yet?
You and me both, brother- I also likely put them in the way that was most difficult (car side last). I think when you're under the car, it's just low-hanging fruit with the other side being right there!
I was paranoid about the reservoir getting too low when putting in the lines (hence the PVC pipe wedged into the brake pedal). I'll be honest, I don't have INPA. It looks like a lot of the old links to download it are now broken. My brain was hurting when I was trying to look for it, but fortune smiled upon me and I didn't need it this time around, even if bleeding the ABS module isn't a bad idea.
As far as an event goes, well, kind of, but not really. Our oldest daughter just bought an Elantra N a few months ago and was asking if we could head to the track sometime, so I figured I would prep this old pile of bolts to go out there and run some laps with her. My dad also just moved back here to Colorado a few weeks ago and we were chatting about doing a track day- he's got a C5 Z06 and has actually never been on track- I told him I would go out with him, so it added a bit of motivation... and a good buddy of mine that helped me with welding and installing the baffled oil pan has a couple of BMW's (440i and an E36 M3 with an LS-swap) that we've been talking about taking to HPR... so, I'm mostly just planning opening lapping days for now, for fun, with friends/family.
I recently discovered that I accidentally built the 128i to the hilt of the rules for a local BMW CCA autoX class. So, this season I'm also going to take it to dodge a few cones with the BMW CCA guys. I'll likely sign up for a track day or 2 with them as well.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) and OHSCrifle :
I love my 128i. I love the color and how it drives. But in the past couple of years, I've seen a couple of slicktop manuals pop up, that if I hadn't already invested a metric ton of time, money and labor-hours into my E82, I would have been tempted to pick up. That's the only thing I would change about my 128i- I'd happily give up the moonroof to save a few pounds and add a bit of helmet room, even though I do technically still fit with a helmet in my car. Good luck in your search for that unicorn!
In reply to roninsoldier83 :
I found a slick top a couple months after getting mine - I think I even linked it in my "live and learn" chronicle. Had to turn my head because I'm likewise too far over the expenditure barrel to start over. I have nearly doubled the $7k starting cost at this point but it's been a fun car - I also know it'll throw me more curve balls (like a water pump) in the not too distant future.
...There is apparently a carbon fiber sunroof delete panel available.
Awesome build. Cant wait to see some track footage of the 128i. I also liked your teggy build. You gonna have three track cars? Thats badass!
In reply to OHSCrifle :
I don't even want to mention how much money I'm into mine for- far more than the car is worth, that's for sure! Although after sorting out the initial problems the car had (most of which were from previous owners), it's been very reliable (knock-on-wood). Really, these cars don't have many catastrophic problems. Water pumps every 100k miles or so. Plugs/coil packs (like most cars, eventually). Leaks from the oil pan, oil filter housing and valve cover. Honestly, they're not too bad in my book. Ironically, mine had zero leaks from any of the three main culprits, despite the fact that I've technically replaced both the oil pan gasket (when putting the baffled pan in) and the oil filter housing gasket (when I swapped in the new oil filter housing in order to run the 135i oil cooler).
I will say, the oil pan gasket is a less than pleasant job and the valve cover looks pretty rough as well.
Most of the money I've spent on this car has either been from fixing everything that wasn't replaced after the accident, or on mods. Otherwise, it's been a pretty solid car.
I saw the carbon fiber moonroof delete panel! I've been eyeing it for a while now! Although I just recently discovered that I maxed out on points in my local BMW CCA autoX class... deleting the moonroof would bump me up a class. So, it'll likely stay for a while. Although since I'm already taking a points hit for springs and shocks, I've been thinking: I might as well just get some Ohlins coilovers and be done with it...
In reply to rjk370z :
I'll be sure to post some track footage when I finally get out there. Since I'm running a 235 square setup, I'm curious to see how much it understeers.
At this point, technically only the 128i is a "track car". The Integra, S2000 and M2 are all gone. I still have my 2021 Mazda 3 Turbo (which is stock and will never see a track) and my NC Miata. The NC Miata is pretty close to stock, but not for long. Although the 128i has sucked up most of my mod money here lately, so the NC build is on pause for a bit.
Since the 128i now seems to be a pretty good fit for both track and autoX, I'm actually not sure what exactly I'm going to do with the NC Miata anymore. Although I've already signed up for Flyin' Miata Summer Camp in June. I'll be sure to tweak the NC a bit before hitting FM's go-kart track.
In reply to roninsoldier83 :
HPR open days are the wild west and are a really bad place for a novice to start their track journey. I stopped going to them, then went to one again after a long time and immediately was reminded of why I stopped going to them.
In reply to docwyte :
Interesting. I’ve been to quite a few over the past couple of decades and never really had an issue. But I suppose there’s always some idiot bound to do something foolish.
This isn’t her first exposure to motorsports. My wife and I didn’t buy her an Elantra N (certainly not my first choice)—she bought it herself after a lifetime of being brainwashed by and immersed in this ridiculous hobby.
I’m starting to think we might have vastly different perspectives and life experiences.
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