In reply to Indy - Guy :
I do agree though- please be extra careful!
In reply to Indy - Guy :
I do agree though- please be extra careful!
bbbbRASS said:In reply to Indy - Guy :
Be really, really careful checking that none of the HV wiring is compromised. Jumping it may cause some issues, and I would park it away from things that can't be flambed for a few days to be sure nothing nasty comes out. I've dealt with a lot of lithium cells, and they are not fond of being thrashed.
That said, I'm super excited for this build and happy to help you (Ashyukun (Robert)) learn about any BMS or cells issues. I have a connection with a VW dealer that may be handy...
Appreciate the reminder. I also dabble in Hybrids, so I know to be cautious.
I applied 12V jump and was able to get the car into Neutral, but not drive or reverse.
I'll add a bunch more pictures later tonight.
In reply to Indy - Guy :
Is that picture of the suspension the drivers rear wheel? That definitely doesn't look right. 
In reply to Ashyukun (Robert) :
Yep. That's not how it left the factory.
In case useful to you, check out all the Munro videos on the ID.4. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1hPe82cGLOE
In reply to Indy - Guy :
I'll have to track down a copy of the manual and see if it's managed to light up every error/warning light on the cluster! 🤣
Thanks for taking so many more pictures and buttoning it up so it stays dry!
I'm curious to figure out what the Drive System and Electrical System errors are from (specifically of course- generally they're from the car looking like it tried to do a barrel roll), I don't imagine it's going to move under its own power until those are resolved. It's encouraging that it still shows the charge & range- I'm guessing that means that the battery and BMS are still talking to each other and the car's ECU.
With the damage to the driver's rear it's possible that it banged the drivetrain around and knocked a connection or two loose. I don't know whether I think it got hit initially there and it knocked it over and damaged the right front when it rolled, or if it was hit initially the right front and destroyed the drivers rear suspension when it rolled. I wonder if the computer has G-sensor records from the accident...
I'm curious, in any of your testing did the infotainment screen come on at all?
I'm guessing that whatever is wrong with the Electrical System is keeping the 12V battery from being charged- but then I don't know if the DC/DC converter keeps the 12V battery charged when the car sits for a long time or if it's truly just like an alternator and only charges the 12V battery when the car is running.
Following. Looks like it will be an amazing project!
Putting this here for myself so I don't lose the link: iD.4 Owners Manual Download
In reply to Ashyukun (Robert) :
The infotainment system did power up displayed a woman's name, welcoming her. There was an option to change users too. I didn't pay much attention to it, because I was sitting in a seat of broken glass. I thought I snapped a pic of that screen, but alas, I did not. Sorry.
When I buy car from IAA, here in Ohio, the title has the name and address of the previous owner. I have used the info to track down and get into touch with previous owners. For you, this could mean gaining an understanding of the accident origins.
When I make contact with the PO, I usually start with:
I just bought a car that has been in an accident yet it only came with one key. If you happen to still have the second key, I'd be willing to buy it from you.
The lure of money has been good for getting them to reply.
If the infotainment system still shows past phone calls, this might be helpful for tracking down the PO's.
I would imagine with the air bags blown even BEV cars have some sort of pyro/disable fuse somewhere to cut power to most things?
It seems perhaps there is an issue with the 12V battery if the app keeps trying to connect but the vehicle isn't on?
https://www.vwidtalk.com/threads/id-4-2024-12v-battery.16549/
SpeedAddict502 said:I would imagine with the air bags blown even BEV cars have some sort of pyro/disable fuse somewhere to cut power to most things?
I know that Teslas have a pyro fuse in the HV system. I'm not sure the car would read a SoC afterwards, though.
Keith Tanner said:SpeedAddict502 said:I would imagine with the air bags blown even BEV cars have some sort of pyro/disable fuse somewhere to cut power to most things?
I know that Teslas have a pyro fuse in the HV system. I'm not sure the car would read a SoC afterwards, though.
I was thinking the same thing- if the battery were completely disconnected it wouldn't be showing a charge percent/range.
Vehicle purchased? Check.
Not yet in OP's possession? Check.
Troubleshooting online? Check.
GRM build thread level- Epic.
OK, did some googling last night and this morning on some of the errors. First off, the 'Electrical System Not Working' error.
According to Google's AI summary:
So, a number of possibilities for what could be causing this one.
Next up, the "Error: Drive System".
So some searching seems to indicate that this is the EV equivalent of a Check Engine light on an ICE car, so there's likely to not be a simple answer to this given the level of damage to the car. It is definitely sounding like I'm going to need something more powerful than just a conventional OBD scanner, which isn't something that is all that surprising.
Hopefully I'll only need to pick up a VCDS System and it will be sufficient for what I will need to do, because getting an ODIS subscription/system would cost more than the car itself (though there is/was someone on one of the VW forums that had bought a laptop and subscription and 'rented' it out via mail to people who needed it).
Recon1342 said:Vehicle purchased? Check.
Not yet in OP's possession? Check.
Troubleshooting online? Check.
GRM build thread level- Epic.
Heh. Yeah, this project is definitely one that has been (and I expect will continue to be) very much a GRM community effort. If/when I get the car done and capable of longer-range travel, I will have to drive it down to the Challenge.
Here's a pdf of VW's "Self Study Program 811213: The High-Voltage System in the ID.4 (Tablet Format)"
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10186407-0001.pdf
It seems like a reasonably useful balance of concise, comprehensive, and technical info.
Ashyukun (Robert) said:Keith Tanner said:SpeedAddict502 said:I would imagine with the air bags blown even BEV cars have some sort of pyro/disable fuse somewhere to cut power to most things?
I know that Teslas have a pyro fuse in the HV system. I'm not sure the car would read a SoC afterwards, though.
I was thinking the same thing- if the battery were completely disconnected it wouldn't be showing a charge percent/range.
Maybe see slides/pages 35-37 in that VW Self Study guide
The BMS etc all run on 12V. The pyrofuse kills only the HV outputs from the traction battery, not all of the other BMS/ data connections. So long as the BMS gets 12V, it can still read cell voltages/ temperatures/ etc and estimate the battery SoC.
I would not consider transplanting airbags into a car never designed for them. The relationship between the steering wheel, the seat, and the safety belts have to be taken into consideration. And airbags don't necessarily save lives. They go a long way towards minimizing injury. A properly belted person will almost assuredly survive a hit with or without an airbag. If the crash is bad enough to kill you while wearing a safety belt, an airbag will be of little use.
In reply to Oapfu :
I've not gotten the chance to look through the guide, but it doesn't sound like that's what it is:
https://retired-moocher-dave.org/2023/05/25/mending-the-id-4/
That the thermal fuses are inside the battery pack and it will have to be taken apart to replace either the modules or the fuses (I don't believe them that they can't be replaced) is annoying- it means that pretty much the first thing I'll need to do is drop the battery pack and see about resolving the thermal fuse situation and I won't be able to test anything else out on the car until I've resolved that (and then put the battery BACK into the car...). And of course going over the HV system to make sure there aren't any shorts that would make it blow the fuses again immediately.
Well, it took a lot of searching (there's far less info/videos out there in the iD.4's battery than other EV's it seems), but it looks like I found at least the Pyrotechnic Fuse for the SX7 module. The more standard fuse in the SX8 I'll probably have to wait until I get into the battery to see what its specs are (and if it blew or if just the pyro one did).
Obviously not going to order one of the pyro fuses until I can see for certain that it's all that needs to be replaced...
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