Mounting some nice wheels!
I ended up taking some advice and relocated battery modules
https://youtu.be/YE452qYhhcI
First Drive!!!
https://youtu.be/ft-KE5C-Rd0
Nice! Pleasantly uneventful for a first drive! A shade cover could help with the dash brightness problem, most factory clusters have a shade after all.
This is really cool. I need to take the time to go through your videos from the beginning.
I have some electric car swap stuff I got a long time ago, but I hesitate to use it now because the cast off production car stuff is so much better.
Keep up the good work.
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:This is really cool. I need to take the time to go through your videos from the beginning.
I have some electric car swap stuff I got a long time ago, but I hesitate to use it now because the cast off production car stuff is so much better.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks Friend!
Weird that your control system bootlooping problem was caused by a pack with only one terminal connected, was it communicating with a BMS for that pack perhaps?
It's awesome to see it driving around. Congrats on the huge amount of work starting to pay off with a really cool result.
GameboyRMH said:Weird that your control system bootlooping problem was caused by a pack with only one terminal connected, was it communicating with a BMS for that pack perhaps?
Weird problem indeed. No BMS was hooked up at that time. I couldn't make much sense of it, but I am glad it is working.
slowbird said:It's awesome to see it driving around. Congrats on the huge amount of work starting to pay off with a really cool result.
Thanks Friend!
Dialing in suspension and wiring the on-board charger
https://youtu.be/2PQJuokReoU
High Voltage Systems (kinda) Working
https://youtu.be/Zhh1q7wurts
Problems, problems, and more Problems
We find brake lines leaking. We find the steering rack leaking. The controller will not boot up. And we might need a new radiator. Sigh...
https://youtu.be/V4HHwKF0SJc
Well you can't act surprised, you know that first drive went way too easily 
To test for a high-voltage leak to the frame, get some long bits of scrap wire (preferably small-gauge for safety) and a small fuse . Connect one end to the frame via the small fuse and touch the other end to high-voltage parts, starting with the main pack wires and then moving into the pack. If the fuse blows up, you know there is a leak and you've moved one step closer to finding it, replace fuse and repeat. You could try a breaker fuse but you want a very small one for safety and ease of detection, and with the amount of current you're working with probably no small breaker will survive.
For your headlights, it's up to personal preference, if you post some straight-on pics of the K1 nose and some different headlight options I could do some mockups to see how it looks. Another idea would be to fill in the headlight opening with a mesh grille and then cut holes to install any lights of your choosing, it could come out looking like some of McLaren's recent supercars and could give you openings where you could install more heat exchangers in the future.
Impressive work on this car. I have to admit, that I don't think I've checked in on this thread since the beginning. I need to take the time and go through from the start. Keep it up and you will have the kinks sorted out soon enough.
T.J. said:Impressive work on this car. I have to admit, that I don't think I've checked in on this thread since the beginning. I need to take the time and go through from the start. Keep it up and you will have the kinks sorted out soon enough.
Thanks T.J.
GameboyRMH said:Well you can't act surprised, you know that first drive went way too easily
To test for a high-voltage leak to the frame, get some long bits of scrap wire (preferably small-gauge for safety) and a small fuse . Connect one end to the frame via the small fuse and touch the other end to high-voltage parts, starting with the main pack wires and then moving into the pack. If the fuse blows up, you know there is a leak and you've moved one step closer to finding it, replace fuse and repeat. You could try a breaker fuse but you want a very small one for safety and ease of detection, and with the amount of current you're working with probably no small breaker will survive.
For your headlights, it's up to personal preference, if you post some straight-on pics of the K1 nose and some different headlight options I could do some mockups to see how it looks. Another idea would be to fill in the headlight opening with a mesh grille and then cut holes to install any lights of your choosing, it could come out looking like some of McLaren's recent supercars and could give you openings where you could install more heat exchangers in the future.
I was hoping that I got off easy. I am not sure that I have a high voltage leak, with the controller acting up I though that it could be something that would cause an issue. I will have to try your technique. When you find the issue, then what? More electrical insulation?
If there's a high-voltage leak you'll probably find there's a complete lack of insulation somewhere, rather than merely insufficient insulation, with so many wires there are plenty of opportunities for something to go wrong or be done wrong.
Fixing some of those pesky problems
https://youtu.be/7xYo8Ymqv2g
Yeah it looks like there's some capacitance or static effect there, if it was an actual high-voltage leak it wouldn't dissipate and likely would've blown a fuse in your electrical meter (or worse). Still, maybe you'd want to add a frame-connected section of metal tube to the coolant system to keep it from building up in the first place? Normally a car's coolant system is grounded.
Is my car broken?
https://youtu.be/_uV-PehRB1U
Controller will not talk to the inverter
Controller will still not talk to the inverter.
Moving on to the center console
https://youtu.be/7W6LrKNYnko
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