Bash level - Greg Giraldo. (expert)
How are we looking on the passenger side where it was so tight before? Because, if you recall, this all started because I wanted to put a new exhaust on good ole Elmore and I got the spot on suggestion that new engine mounts would free up space.
Way better!
Now is when we're all reminded what a dingleberry I can be. I really thought I measured that the collector flange was 3". So I ordered that 3" y-pipe kit, 3" flanges, 3" muffler, etc. etc...
It's 2.5".
The headers neck down right before the flange. Doh.
I'm not able to return that fancy y-pipe so, unfortunately, it'll be 2.5" coming out of the collector and then will step up into 3" for the rest of the system. It'll help the fitment, for sure, but I'd prefer it be all one size from the collector back.
I was talking to a friend who works at a well known heat-control company about what I could use to help insulate the steering box from that primary. My thought was just a piece of gold foil on the steering box would do enough but he said he'd like to see that primary tube wrapped and then make some sort of shield. He said I'd need about 1/2" to achieve that ideal setup.
Aside from the fact that I don't want to take the header back off and have to buy another Remflex gasket because I'm sure it'll come apart, I also am not confident I could bash that primary tube much more without either getting it red hot to bend or cracking it.
What are the group's thoughts on this?
More space would be better if you want to get some insulation in there. How bad is the heat for that steering box?
Remember that heat is transferred three ways: conduction, convection, and radiation. If the pipe is touching, you're getting all three. If you can get some air space with a shield that isn't touching anything and a little heat wrap on the pipe and the box, now you're preventing conduction and reducing radiation.
If I was you I'd try to smash up the primary some in situ with a torch. If it gets sketchy, then I'd take the header back off and eat the gasket price. It's just smooshed graphite - I have more optimism that you can reuse it than you, but that's probably because I wasn't there to see it when it went in.
How about just running a bigger power steering cooler?
Joking (kinda)
In reply to Mezzanine :
I don't know the answer to how bad heat is for the steering box, to be honest, but I assume less heat is better and the heat coming directly from the primary is about as hot as it gets in an engine bay. It's not physically touching anywhere. I'd say the average gap is about 1/8", maybe slightly less. I'm about to go try MAP gas and a pry bar.
The gasket is extremely fragile but I suppose there's a chance I could reuse it. It's not so much the cost but the waiting for another gasket, really.
In reply to gsettle :
I mean...maybe? It does have a cooler now.
Since time is your critical path, then go ahead with the map gas and pry bar. If it feels sketchy or like you're about to ruin something, then fall back and run it as it sits right now and order the gasket to make this a future you problem. Get all the stuff queued up to do it with headers out when time isn't as tight. Will time ever be less tight?
In reply to Mezzanine :
Oh, it's not that I'm short on time, necessarily, just impatient. I want to dig in on this new exhaust!
I spent some quality time with the yellow bottle and I think I'm happy with how it is now. The tightest point is about 1/8" (instead of that being the biggest gap) and on the firewall side it opens up to almost 1/2". Getting at the tightest point is only possible from underneath and it's difficult to get the pry bar into the right spot while it's still red hot.
Getting it to 1/2" everywhere, I don't think is reasonable/feasible.
Today's project was cleaning up all of the old brass fittings and running a new copper line for the oil pressure gauge. Far from my cleanest work but I couldn't feel my fingers by the end, cut the line a little short... excuses, excuses, etc, etc.
A few small things checked off the list.
First of all, I remembered that I had a fresh rotor and cap sitting on the shelf that I bought when the ignition module went bad many years ago. If have the timeline right in my head it was about 5 years ago. I was using Elmore to move us into the new house and just needed it back on the road ASAP so I replaced the module and got back to it.
I'm planning to get fresh wires, stepping up to 8.5mm, and plugs too but I haven't landed on which plugs. If anyone has suggestions that would be appreciated. ACDelco R85TS is what's in there now.
Next was to push the pulley on to the new PS pump and mount it up. It's still loose and needs the new belt put on.
Lastly, I dug through and found a good bit of 2.5" exhaust pipe although I'll probably have to make a trip to the parts store for some 2.5" to 3" adapters.
It's a bummer the mandrel bends are the nastiest looking but they'll clean up just fine.
Edit:
Forgot to show off this little treasure I found. Got himself stuck in the maze of lighting hoses and couldn't get out in time.
I spent a short work break this morning cleaning, trimming and putzing with those mandrel bends to see how I'd be able to use them to get out and around the trans cross member. This afternoon on my break I realized, hey, the flange on that section of exhaust is the same as the header...
A little heat followed by some hammering and I think I've got my solution.
This is exhaust is going to end up a combination of brand new stainless bits and banged up used pieces from a former turbo Miata setup but I think it'll just add to Elmore's character.
I'll trim that piece to length, put a 2.5" to 3" adapter on and hang that side of the Y pipe. Then I'll be able to start into the driver side and determine how much I need to chop out of the middle.
Separately, I realized that the passenger header is super close to the hard brake line that runs to the passenger front. I bought a piece of 10x10 trans/floor shield along with stainless ties for the steering box. Hopefully I'll be able to use a piece of that to protect the line there.
The exhaust situation has become more complicated but I'm making good progress. Yesterday I spent a lot of time trying to get the Y-pipe to clear the transmission pan and cross member without modifying the piece coming off the collector. Lotsa stuff in the way!
I cut the straight portion, flipped it around, etc. etc. but I eventually realized there was just no way it was going to fit unless I continued my new pattern of bashing stuff and even then the Y-pipe wouldn't be positioned well for the rest of the exhaust so I ended up with this.
It will get trimmed back some but this cleanly and effectively pulls the Y-pipe away from all of the things it has been trying to share space with. In some ways it makes me wish I had gone this route instead of heat and hammer but, eh, I'm not redoing that.
The exhaust is now the lowest point but a) I don't think it's worth the extra time to modify how far it hangs down although I do have to change it a lot as it stands and b) even if I lower the truck some it still won't really be in danger of catching on anything, I can't imagine.
Here's how the main section of the Y-pipe looks now. It'll clamp to the piece coming out from the collector. Otherwise, I won't be able to remove it.
Crossover for the Y-pipe figured out.
The driver's side section will be welded directly to the piece coming off of the flange then that sleeve in the middle will be welded to the driver's side "Y" and it'll clamp together.
I need a 2.5" exhaust clamp to get the passenger side fixed solidly in place. I'll then tack weld the sleeve in place to ensure that the angle is right for it to clamp down on the driver's side. All the various angles and bends were difficult to get totally right but I like this.
There was an 02 bung in that center section that I initially wanted to keep for if/when I go to EFI but moving it would have added complication and I figure that if I go that route I can add one back in later.
It may not look like much but after 1.5 hrs in the frigid garage I feel pretty accomplished, especially for running out of welding gas.
The driver's side half is tacked together, passenger side tacked together and it all clamps up.
I *think* that junction in the middle will seal up OK but I guess only time will tell. The clamp isn't totally tight and it's difficult to get movement there. When I was cleaning up I picked up the muffler I've been planning to use, shook it, and there definitely is some crap in there. I may just buy a cheapo new muffler rather than re-use this. It probably should have been thrown way when I pulled it off Sven originally.
It's going to be slow going over the next couple of days because of how ridiculously cold it is out there but progress must be made. I was able to grab a fresh bottle from the welding store first thing this morning and after about 5 minutes out there, the 3.5" to 3" adapter is tacked into place.
I'll clamp the resonator to the Y-pipe and I may actually use clamps for the inlet and outlet of both the resonator and muffler. I have 5 clamps left from what came in the Y-pipe kit. May as well use them and then the resonator and muffler are more easily replaced if I feel I need to for sound, redesign, etc.
The new muffler has been slow getting here thanks to the ever-late FedEx so I've just been poking at little things. It also was below 0 degrees much of yesterday so I didn't really feel a strong need to be out in the garage.
The floor/tunnel insulation showed up though and it does physically fit between the steering box and the header. I tried just looping stainless ties around it but it needed to be more secure so I'm going this route.
It's pretty wedged in there anyway so I'm not even going to bother with a tie on the bottom, I don't think. If it escapes, it escapes.
On a different note, there's always been an unused old school Sunpro amp gauge in the three gauge cluster along with oil pressure and water temp. Since amp gauges are sort of involved to wire up, I figured I'd look for a volt gauge that matches. I found the right dial and face color on eBay, ordered it up and... it's the wrong size. Shoot. I can't find one anywhere in the right size and style so I'll probably just suck it up and wire in the amp gauge.
There are tools sold to help tighten down stainless ties but I figured I could save the $8 and make my own.
Step 1: Find extra extension and put it in the vise.
Step 2: Cut off the socket end and make a slot.
Step 3: Attach to ratchet and crank it down.
It worked well enough. The positioning made it difficult so I think it'll be even better in a situation with more room to work.
The muffler showed up and it's going to work great. I may have to order another length of 3" pipe to get the outlet exactly where I want it in front of the rear wheel but we'll see. I ordered the piece that I did well before I knew where everything was actually going to end up. My weekend will be pretty busy with both work and family stuff but there is a possibility that I will at least be able to have all pieces cut, clamped and tacked where applicable. Fingers crossed.
