TurboFource said:...... (except the for the windup key on top.....)
That's my favorite part
TurboFource said:...... (except the for the windup key on top.....)
That's my favorite part
I want a windup key on a motor with a tach signal, so the faster you rev, the faster it "unwinds.'
In reply to RichardSIA :
Do not swap! Cheaper, better way to achieve your goals. Use that 1100 engine/ trans it fits and works. Most engine swaps detract from the character of the car. 95% won't fit. Steering rack is at the firewall really limiting space.
Is 15" wheels to slow the engine speed down on the freeway. Plus the final drive in that truck is something like 5:78 ( Sorry exact ratio slips my mind but it's really deep. The pumpkin on the rear end comes out easily and you can use the pumpkin from a Sprite or Midget and get something in the 4:00's or even 3's.
Might be slow off the line. But fix that with a super charger. They sell a complete bolt on kit. Or you can cheaply fabricate one yourself. Use the Newish Mini Cooper's supercharger and draw through a 1&1/2 SU. It will be a fraction of what a kit will cost. I can help you guess what needle to go with and then it's only a matter of a battery powered drill and some fine emery paper.
Either do it on a chassis Dyno or like I used to on a long hill. Both work, one is cheaper than the other. Both take about the same time.
In reply to frenchyd :
Interested in your needle modification process.....may need to do so on my draw through CD-175 turbo setup...
IF the Geo can be made to fit it is lighter than the 1100 and the trans would have modern synchro's.
I have three diffs so can certainly fit a good match.
I will not need any more power than what the Geo would provide.
SC is more complication than I want in my DD.
Geo 1.0 only happens if it can be done without cutting the Morris body.
Just checked, the Geo engine is 2" shorter than the Austin.
Morris has lots of space up top.
Upon seeing the engine bay, I have changed my mind. Needs a 13b.
Still like the Geo/zuki drivetrain plan, though. Looking forward to it!
LOL, I gave a running 4v carbed Mazzzzda to the scrapper when I could not get even $50.00 for it.
The transmission behind those may be longer than my wheelbase!
In reply to RichardSIA :
Those 4v rotaries are worth a lot of money for rarity value.
TurboFource said:In reply to frenchyd :
Interested in your needle modification process.....may need to do so on my draw through CD-175 turbo setup...
Are you familiar with the SU Needle?
oops you said Stromberg CD 175. The principle is the same. Instead of the piston/ oil Damper assembly it uses a "rubber" diaphragm. (Make sure that it's new ) But the needle works about the same. The trick is when you hear the engine going lean you reach in with an exacto knife and lightly scratch the needle at the top of the throat. Then pull the needle, chuck it in a drill and with very fine emery paper. Spin the needle and polish the scratch off. slide it back in place and do it again. Once it's no longer lean. Do it one more time . Continue to do that to the tip of the needle.
That's roughly what you want. Now go drive it. If you hear it going lean say up a hill or under hard acceleration those spots on the needle need to be polished a bit more.
You can do it faster on a chassis Dyno. And watch your fuel mixture 12.7 is what you want for peak power using Gasoline.
If you're going racing use E85. It's a lot cheaper than premium. And insanely cheaper than racing gas. Plus it makes more power than gasoline and runs a lot cooler .
I've got to ask about your ring gap. If it's a new rebuild did you gap your rings for the supercharger? If it's got high miles on it ( 50,000+ ) they've gapped themselves. Depending on how much boost you intend to run you can have less miles or less gap.
RichardSIA said:DD mileage master.
The only reason to consider the swap.
I drove a turbo car once, when the boost hit the mileage was like flushing a toilet.
Kieth is right but he's wrong. That is a poorly tuned turbo setup will need more fuel to be safe under boost.
But a proper tune up means only when you need boost does the use of fuel go up. And you won't go over rich just to be safe. A basic mega squirt can be tuned to that point.
In reply to frenchyd :
That's, uhh, what I said. I was assuming engine management more sophisticated than just screwing with base fuel pressure. You need more fuel under boost, not all the time. And you'll run richer than stoich to keep EGTs down and manage detonation. You can tune your basic mega squirt to run lean under boost if you want, and you won't use much fuel because you'll be spending all your time rebuilding engines :)
In reply to Keith Tanner :
I'm glad we agree. I understood what you were saying and agreed with it. But I wanted to reinforce it with a slightly different approach.
I'm not sure Richard SIA understands the complexity involving a swap, especially a British car to work with a Japanese engine. Will it fit? Is absolutely the easiest part.
Who brought up turbos again? I don't remember Mr. SIA starting that in this thread.
I haven't looked, because I don't have nearly enough curiosity, but I imagine a Suzuki G10 needing pretty minimal wiring to run properly. It wouldn't be my first engine of choice but simplicity should be an advantage with this engine. Personally, a donor 2.3 Duratec Ford Ranger with manual trans seems more appealing. Buy the whole vehicle, use as much of the donor as possible, sell the rest.
You know, there was a factory G10 turbo engine...
FWIW, I wasn't trying to change your mind on the engine earlier, just point out why the later G13 would probably be more sensible that the DOHC version. It's moot either way.
Something to keep in mind. The G10 does not make a great deal of torque, so choose your final drive wisely. A lot of the Metro heads thought they'd be smart and put a 3.52 final drive in from an early G13 car and were disappointed that not only did the fuel economy not get any better but it also made the car miserable to drive. Nothing wrong with 3500 RPM on the highway in a G10. We had our best FE numbers with a 4.10 final drive ratio on 175 70 13 tires.
Yes, factory turbo G10 installs exist, though I assume they're rare these days. I wouldn't want the original turbo anyway; a modern package makes more sense. But as you mentioned, this isn't a great truck engine, so I still wouldn't use it here myself.
I wasn't addressing your comments, just saying that there was a turbo version, but whats wrong with the stock turbos?
In reply to Peabody :
I think that turbo tech/design has advanced a lot in the last 35 years and I would see if there are better, more efficient options out there now.
I just wanted to say I approve everything about this plan.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:Who brought up turbos again? I don't remember Mr. SIA starting that in this thread.
I haven't looked, because I don't have nearly enough curiosity, but I imagine a Suzuki G10 needing pretty minimal wiring to run properly. It wouldn't be my first engine of choice but simplicity should be an advantage with this engine. Personally, a donor 2.3 Duratec Ford Ranger with manual trans seems more appealing. Buy the whole vehicle, use as much of the donor as possible, sell the rest.
Sorry a Duratec just won't fit. The steering rack is right behind the engine st the firewall
Did a VERY rough dimension check for putting in the Geo 1.0 and so far it looks doable with minimal modifications.
Geo has a much higher sustained operating range than an A series if long life is a factor and it bolts up to an OD five speed.
Around 50 HP so the rest of the driveline should not be at risk as it would with many other swaps.
Goal here is a very practical daily driver that can keep up at freeway speeds for longer trips when necessary.
Where I live any trip that is not just into the local town center is at least a hundred and twenty miles there and back.
Geo probably has better Aero so I would not realistically expect the same 50 MPG but 40 MPG may be a realistic goal.
GEO's go over 150K miles between rebuilds despite the abuse they get as cheap throw-away cars.
Stock BMC 1098 gave 45bhp @ 5250rpm and 56lb ft @ 2,700rpm.
Cannot find a reliable weight figure but I am sure it is at least 200 Lb.
50K mile or less engine life without a rebuild is common, 100K is very rare.
The GEO 3 Cylinder Engine
Engine Material: Aluminum Block/Head/Intake
Engine Weight: 134.5 lbs. (fully assembled)
Engine Type: In-line SOHC 3 cylinder (RPO LP2)
Displacement(cu. in.): 1.0L (61)
Bore/Stroke(in.): 2.91 x 3.03
Horsepower @ RPM: 49 @ 4,700 (XFi)
Horsepower @ RPM: 55 @ 5,700 (Base and LSi)
Torque(lb/ft) @ RPM: 58 @ 3,300 (All Models)
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Fuel Induction: Electronic Fuel Injection (Unless I adapt a Weber 40 DCOE and dump the electronics). 
Exhaust System: Single
Ignition System: Electronic High Energy
Alternator Rating: 55 amp (50 amp convertible)
Battery Rating: 400 cca
So far it appears that I may be able to set the Geo engine a bit further forward.
There is no engine driven fan and an electric can be mounted in front of the radiator.
Setting the engine forward a couple of inches may take care of the bell housing clearance issue.
The Samurai bell is actually smaller in diameter than the rib-case.
Power and torque are similar so the main difference would be safe extended cruising RPM, engine service life, and probably MPG.
This MM PU replaces the one I sold back 89 and have regretted letting go ever since.
G10 has been rough fitted and can be made to work with minimal cutting of the firewall/battery box and left frame rail notch.
Distributor and water neck have to be altered but the rest is fairly simple.
I hesitate as the swap might hurt resale value, but I have no plan to ever sell so long as I am able to drive.
By that time ICE may be illegal and I may be (CENSORED, CENSORED, CENSORED!), or dead.
So concerns over being "Readily restorable to original" are fading fairly quickly.
It seems about half the classic cars being repaired are "Resto-Mods" these days and well done examples are not losing any value.
Exchange G10 engines are still available at the auto parts store, BMC A series are not.
I did find an old thread on another forum that basically spells out the modifications to make this work even though it is not a Miata.
In fact it seems the Morris may be simpler, which seems strange considering the size of a Miata engine bay.
Yah I know, pics or............
Seems to fit in there nicely. Look forward to seeing this come together.
Nice project. I once sold a Geo 1.0 to a guy putting it in an old Mini. "Yeah, I was a purist until I broke down in the middle of nowhere. Besides, lighter, faster and more gears."
Makes sense.
With the engine properly canted over the fit gets better.
I will take the second belt sheave off the crank pulley and pick up almost an inch of space in front.
Relocating the distributor is possible but I prefer a Microsquirt instead.
Micro also makes port injection possible and I have a spare intake to cut up if needed.
But this is not a prime project at this time, I wanted to resolve weather it was feasible or not before hunting down the additional parts needed.
Now I may take my time and save a few bucks.
Exciting developments; definitely following this one!
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