GT6+/Buick V6, "Trick-6" build.

I'm curious why this engine appealed to you for such a build. How much power are you expecting from this engine? Sounds like an interesting build.

For images, you need to get them uploaded to a website like Photobucket, and then link to them using the little camera icon in the Comment box.

Most V6/8 conversions I've seen run the exhaust outside of the frame. Some sort of stop may bee required to keep the front wheels from contacting at full lock. Especially true on the driver's side where you have the steering column to route around.

Be sure to tie the front suspension towers together with something. The engine actually provides some amount of stiffening there. Not a ton since the engine mounts are rubber, but I wouldn't leave them.

One common way to get additional hood clearance is to run a remote air filter.

A friend of mine is about too put the spare 3.8 ford out of my parts car in an rx7 because its available so i cab understand it!

Given that the stock frame is 2 Dimensional, and contributes little in the way of stiffness,
(the body does a lot) the obvious answer is to go 3 Dimensional.
Even if you decide not to cage the body, a stiffer tubular space frame structure up front that ties into
the frame can yield same or better strength than stock.
Just run the tubes where there is room, triangulate where possible, to tie major pickup points together.
Given that the rear is already Merkur, front can be done with adaptors, or with custom hubs on GT6 spindles,
or with Merkur hubs on custom stub axles bolted into the GT6 uprights.
Sure, you could do all custom stuff, but truth is the Spitfire/GT6 suspension is pretty good,
Lot's of SCCA National Championships, etc. (Chapman and many others thought so anyway).
Using a proven setup spares you a TON of extra work and debugging, unless you are already an
experienced suspension designer.

BTW, pictures, or it didn't happen ;)

I second the keeping of the stock GT6 front suspension. The easiest way to get the 108mm (4 1/4") PCD is to get a new set of hubs from someone like Canley Classics. Unless you can machine your own stub axles to adapt Merkur/etc hubs, buying the hubs will be a lot cheaper. Also, you already have the larger sub axles as its a GT6. The lower trunnion design did work in Formula 1 for a few seasons, and worked for numerous years in the lower formulae, though people like Brabham did convert the trunnion to a spherical bearing in the late 60's.

Check out sites that supply industrial tooling and workholding.

I'm leaning towards clever. Sounds like you're trying to be smart about getting this car back into usable and safe condition.

Looks good to me, removing material that you don't need.
Do consider adding a brace or hoop tying the towers (official Triumph name is 'turret') together.
This should help handle the bending loads from front suspension through coilovers.

FWIW: there is a kit available to replace the Merkur diff with a Supra one. I've got one installed in my XR.

I think you could trade that heavy V6 to a Jeeper,

and use an aluminum 4 valve double cam 3.0L V6 that makes the same HP and does not shake so bad your fillings will swap teeth.

Wish that you lived near me, I've been into the 3.8/4.1 Buick V6s for ages and have a few parts that you would have benefited from. Got the original Buick 4.1 four barrel manifold that fits the heads that you're running and is as low as can be, practically sits lower than the tops of the valve covers. Also have the rotating oil filter mount that fits to the stock front timing cover/oil pump that allows you to rotate the filter 360 degrees to clear anything end everything up front. Came out of a Caddy running the Buick 4.1 engine. Tough to find these days. Have a couple of Jeep flywheels and clutch covers for the Buick V6. No need to pay TA or D&D for their flywheels when OEM is still available.

I mean, I even have a Capri V6, four speed trans package, and narrowed Ford rear end that came out of an MG Midget. Will drop right into your car !

Like I said, sure wish that you lived closer ! ! ! ! !

Love the build, needs more photos! We're all little kids here, we like as many photos as words, it's easier for our simple minds to follow along.

What Merkur parts are you looking for? Quite a few suppliers for parts are around.

http://merkurmidwest.com/

http://www.merkur.50megs.com/

http://forum.merkurclub.com/forum/index.php?sid=b83d9a7b6a0a042b96a9db18d821b2fc

http://rapidogroup.com/

I'm guessing you've abandoned all hope of keeping the stock GT6 hoodline?  ;)

In reply to clshore :

For that intake, I'd cut off the GT6 hood bump and replace it with a Ferrari-esque clear plastic bubble.

In reply to RichardSIA :

6 in a row is the way to go!  Not some antique cast iron block pushrod engine that doesn't make as much power as you are told it does. 
A V6 is too wide, most of them are 90 degrees .   Even the supercharged ones or turbo charged ones unless you spend a lot of money dressing them up  look like stamped tin and cast Iron. 
 

Buy something that starts out pretty. That all you have to do is clean it up and polish the highlights and it's pretty. 
Plus you won't be accused of "lumping" the car. It's considered an upgrade. 
I'm talking about a 1990's through 2000's Jaguar 4.0 

There are plenty in junkyards with few buyers because they are extremely reliable.  It's a pure Jaguar design that even has an optional Eaton super charger. And some even came with a manual transmission. ( most are over in England) 

All aluminum. 4 valves per cylinder DOHC with up to 370 horsepower. In case you aren't impressed, a Chevy 454 makes 230 horsepower and Ford 460 makes 210 horsepower under the new net horsepower ratings.

If your rear end wont take the torque and power you can  bolt a Jaguar rear end under very very easily and they come as narrow as a 50" track. 

In reply to RichardSIA :

If you still have the original 6, you can probably take some comparison measurements - the bonnet bump is there for a reason and is only as tall/wide as it needs to be to clear the front of the OE engine. But assuming the shorter engine will be farther back in the chassis, you may be ok.  Hell - you might even be able to use a Spitfire bonnet.  That would really confuse people.  Or if you do have to go with the "bubble option" starting with a Spitfire bonnet would probably make for cleaner lines. Showing off those carbs would be cool. 

Frenchy has become famous or completely ignoring the history of a thread and going down his own little rabbit hole of delusion... 

In reply to Ian F (Forum Supporter) :

Sure! You could aim baby spotlights from the top of each windshield pillar, or place LED lights under the hood!
Fit some clear pyrex valve covers, and synch strobe lights to the crank so that the valve train could be 'frozen',
maybe have a 'phase' knob to make the parts appear to slowly move.
Would look great with anodized roller rockers.

The Bedardatron lives!!!

OK, OK, I'm not a hater, just having a little fun. I'd want to show off that setup too.

I actually love where this build is going, I have followed it from the start, glad to see it's still alive and kicking.
I have a 69 GT6+, and my fantasy build featured a Cosworth DFV up front with a Hewland transaxle in the rear.

But my latest GT6 swap idea is RWD Honda L15B7, light, compact, 200+ HP stock, over 350 HP with an upgraded turbo kit.
There's no off-the-shelf RWD solution, but inspired by KMiata, I think an adaptor plate could enable a BMW Getrag 260.

Build on Richard, build on  !