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orthoxstice
orthoxstice Reader
5/12/21 6:48 a.m.

Got the engine all back together and got it fired up (after I put the plug wires on in the right order finally) only to discover that my broken stud was only part of the problem; that exhaust runner is cracked. Somehow the car is even louder than it was before and I can feel a very concentrated blast of exhaust gas getting shot out of the back of the head area. 
 

Looks like I need to source another dual outlet manifold. 

Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter)
Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) Dork
5/12/21 7:10 a.m.

Would getting some sort of header be a decent option here rather than sourcing another manifold  ?

orthoxstice
orthoxstice Reader
5/12/21 7:56 a.m.

I had thought about that. There are cheaply available headers for the B18 of okay quality, but they pose some problems. For one, the cheap ones don't flow all that much better than the dual outlet manifold. For two, I think they'd hit the generator and so I'd need an alternator conversion as well. For three, I'd have to buy an earlier intake manifold. 

ish_da
ish_da New Reader
5/12/21 9:16 p.m.

There are a couple of manifolds of different varieties on fleabay for reasonable money right now. I would personally get the B20E exhaust manifold and match with the earlier B18 alu intake manifold. There's none of those on the bay right now tho but I suspect I know who has some readily available. The dual exhaust port goes pretty far before having to jump to a custom header, so I would stick with what is simple if I were you.

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 UltraDork
5/12/21 11:01 p.m.

In reply to ish_da :

I bet our own Volvoclearinghouse on this forum has an aluminum intake manifold in his collection. I agree that the b20E exhaust manifold is as good as many of the headers that have been available. Pretty sure it clears the generator too. The old JCWhitney header cleared the generator for sure.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse PowerDork
5/13/21 7:11 a.m.
TurnerX19 said:

In reply to ish_da :

I bet our own Volvoclearinghouse on this forum has an aluminum intake manifold in his collection. I agree that the b20E exhaust manifold is as good as many of the headers that have been available. Pretty sure it clears the generator too. The old JCWhitney header cleared the generator for sure.

I'd already PM'd the OP, I have both the integrated intake/ exhaust and aluminum intakes/ b20E exhaust manifolds.  Whichever route is preferred.  I've run both on generator cars (as well as a header, which I also have). 

orthoxstice
orthoxstice Reader
6/14/21 6:29 p.m.

Well, long time no update but I have finally made some progress. Mike aka VCH indeed had a pile of stuff I could use including a fuel injected dual-outlet manifold and an earlier aluminum intake. After stopping over at his compound and enjoying the sights and food of Maryland, I returned ready to rock. Then I let it sit for another three weeks.

 

But today:

Got the old manifolds off pretty easily. The manifold to downpipe connection put up a fight, there really isn't a good way to get at those nuts (more on that later). Once the manifold was off I saw that it had not actually cracked, instead...

I'm not sure how all that metal corroded away, but you can compare that exhaust flange to the one adjacent and see how much metal is gone. I'm assuming the previous owner drove the car with a stud broken off for a long time.

Ah, much better. BUT how to get these two pieces that were never actually installed together by Volvo and which have different flange thicknesses to bolt flush to the head?

Enter my patented stagger-washer. Basically I bought eight of those thick Volvo manifold washers, stuck two in the vice at a time, mig'd them together, and then cut half of the bottom one off to ensure a nice, tight clamping force on the manifolds. Worked great.

So here it is, parked outside for the first time in forever (and with a fresh gas filler neck rubber seal). Overall it was a success; I haven't even re-tuned the carbs and the car revs so much more freely than it did before. So that's a plus. It's also quieter, so that's a plus too. However; there are some negatives:

- The water pump is dripping coolant now and I'm not sure from where. I replaced the o-rings at the top when I did the headgasket and the one for the pipe that goes around the back of the head. Not sure what happened there...

- There is an exhaust leak at the downpipe to manifold connection. I replaced the studs with ones from a Dorman kit that comes with studs and brass nuts. There is a very small shoulder between the two threaded parts (just like the studs that were on the old manifold) but I worry that [i]perhaps[/i] the shoulder is slightly too bulged out and is preventing the two surfaces from mating completely. So that will have to get figured out at some point.

- I still haven't welded the new trunk floor in. All in good time!

TED_fiestaHP
TED_fiestaHP HalfDork
6/14/21 8:01 p.m.

  Progress is always awesome, now you have smaller problems.  Smaller problems are easier to solve, soon you will have even more progress! 

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse PowerDork
6/14/21 9:40 p.m.

Glad to see the parts worked for you. Good meeting you guys, hope you enjoyed your (soggy) camping trip!

orthoxstice
orthoxstice Reader
7/9/21 7:56 a.m.

Monthly-ish update:

It's parked at my house finally. The leaking water pump was just the heater pipe o-ring being out of position. I also finally bought a uni-syn to tune the carbs with instead of doing it with a hose to my ear and I have the car at what I think is a great state of tune. Starts easily with choke, revs freely, idles comfortably, and even restarts first crank when hot. I still need to weld in the new trunk floor to fully secure the gas tank, but other than that it's pretty much road ready. My girlfriend, a friend, and I took it down to the Dairy Mart last night for a shake down cruise which went well.

Except that the amp light comes on in seemingly backwards conditions. As I get up in the revs the light comes on and when the revs drop back down to idle it goes out. Which is the opposite of what I would expect!

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse PowerDork
7/9/21 8:46 a.m.

Have you checked the voltage at the battery while revving and idling?  I wonder if your generator is polarized.

orthoxstice
orthoxstice Reader
7/11/21 10:27 a.m.

I had the same thought. I'll look into that. 
 

I drove it yesterday over the river and back and it tools around perfectly. Got my first "hey nice car!" while at a light, too. 
 

Regarding the 3 speed; the car feels rung out at 50 mph so I don't think it'll ever see north of 65 (despite the very optimistic speedometer). I can feel all three shifts which is good. I know these are high rpm motors but even still! 

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse PowerDork
7/11/21 9:25 p.m.

In reply to orthoxstice :

My first Amazon had a B18D, the later, slightly hotter version of that engine. With the 4.10 rear and 4 speed I once drove back to Maryland from NYC, going 80 plus most of the way (and hitting 100 a couple of times).  I'm sure the Speedo wasn't right, but the tach was reaching over 5000 most of the time so it was really spinning.

orthoxstice
orthoxstice Reader
7/29/21 6:29 a.m.

I've driven this a few times now our around town and it's doing okay. Ran out of gas once pulling up to the Walnut St. car show last week which was amusing. Luckily I coasted into a parking spot and keep a gas can in the trunk. 
 

However! Reverse is mostly gone now. Fluid level is where it should be but I've been reading mysterious things on the internet about "band adjustments" so I'll have to look into that. Worst case scenario I have to put the backup BW35 in. 
 

Maybe the car is crying out to be manual swapped. 

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 UltraDork
7/29/21 7:02 a.m.

In reply to orthoxstice :

Of course it is crying out for a manual! And extra options are easier with an automatic body shell too. Lots more space in the tunnel. The clutch master cylinder mounting is there as well.

orthoxstice
orthoxstice Reader
9/21/21 1:02 p.m.

My daily driver 940 fell prey to a rat who decided to eat through all the fuel lines and wires at the tank sending unit so I've been taking the Amazon down to the commuter bus during the week.

It's decided; this is getting manual swapped. I can just tell how badly this car cries out for it. 
 

A guy on tbricks had an M41 for sale that I narrowly missed out on but will I ever need overdrive? Probably not!

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 UltraDork
9/21/21 6:57 p.m.

In reply to orthoxstice :

Yes you want the overdrive....if it workscheeky The way these cars cruise, and the speed on the modern interstate are massively enhanced with OD.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse PowerDork
9/22/21 6:30 a.m.

I have never had a 122 with Overdrive.  Let those 4 cylinders sing!

But, my Jaguar had the Laycock de Normanville overdrive and I use it all the time.  Cruising at 65 at 2000 RPM seems way more appropriate for the character of the car.  

 

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