So after it was able to move under its own power, I got it on a trailer to take to get the exhaust done. I am very pleased with how it came out. It sounds great, and he did a very good job on placement and welds. I wouldnt expect anything less from a guy retired that retired from welding in a nuclear plant for 44+ years. When I got there, he asked how i wanted the tip, and he placed it, layed down, put the pedal under his knee, and stuck it in place.
So after I got it back, I did some knit pickey stuff and decided to take it my buddies house thats right down the road for celebratory pics and refreshments. I did find that I need to put flares on for my ET Street SS to fit. Who doesnt love flares though? I just dont know how to do it. Arent these rears double walled and have to be welded together? What is the rule on that? Is it something I can get away with for a little bit, or is it crucial to just get it done correctly right away?
So after my treck over there, I eventually got around to putting the front end on and making an intake. I forgot how many bolts hold the front bumper and valance on. So that was a task to find all of them and line it back up since I hadnt done it in so long. The intake was just some 4" pipe, 90* elbow, and Sikky filter all from Summit. So now I have my iat sensor in and hooked up. This isnt all the updates, but its all I have time for right now. I will try to get it all caught up later today.
therealpinto said:no dual circuit master cylinder?
...
I surfed into their website and read
"This does not work w/ factory brake lines. This is due to the master cylinder being a single outlet design instead of dual/triple/quad like most OEM master cylinders. A common misconception is to believe this causes a higher risk of failure due to a lack of a back up line should one line fail. Most OEM master cylinders are still single feed internally & have the same assumed “risk” to our Master Cylinder. "
I
oh my, that is just flat out wrong. And on top of wrong, it is dishonest. If that master cylinder has only one outlet, it has been obsolete since 1966. Single outlet means one leak anywhere in the system equals zero hydraulic pressure to all four wheels.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Well, big oof on my part then. I will have to look into a different brake master to replace that one then. Thank yall for the valuable information.
The master cylinder thing is easily overlooked. You are not the first and probably not the last either if that is of any comfort ;-)
To me, it seems you have the space for a tandem master cylinder. Check the bore size of the one you have (I'd guess 7/8) and get a corresponding tandem master cylinder. Wilwood don't seem to have the remote reservoir ones in anything smaller than 1" though. You might want to look at some OEM cylinders as an option.
Regards
Gustaf
In reply to BeardedMuffin :
My reply was not meant as a rip on you. You bought a decent looking part that is promoted inaccurately.
If it was my car, I'd figure out how to use the OEM E30 master without the booster. The adaptation will be similar to the aftermarket piece you already bought. Hardest part will be getting the pushrod length dialed, which probably won't be all that hard. And you might want to increase the pedal ratio a bit to get back some of the force multiplication you lost.
also, you can use the images and part descriptions on RockAuto to get info on bore sizes, port locations, flare and tube nut dimensions, and pushrod type. Start by looking up the E30 part and go from there.
You've built a kick-ass car so far! The master cylinder selection and adaptation is well within your wheelhouse. And we're always here to answer questions.
For wheel flares, one option may be to get the factory flares off an e30 325ix. You'd still have to trim the fenders to gain clearance for those tires but the ix flares would give it a finished factory look.
In reply to therealpinto :
That was going to be my first thing I looked into. No 2 swaps are ever the same so there will be some trial and error. Also, thinking about it, the master cylinder that I have is originally is designed for a dual master setup if I were to guess.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Oh, I took no offense to it. I appreciate you letting me know because it is obviously something that I would not have thought about. Also another reason I wanted to try and do this post, because I know you guys have more knowledge about things like that and can steer me in the right direction.
In reply to stuart in mn :
My main issue is that it hits the upper part of the wheel arch. So cutting it seems like my only option. Also, I plan on going with over fenders at some point in the hopefully near future as wondering how the quarters are.
Thanks for posting your build. I have recently purchased a 1990 e30 and have started my trouble shooting. The car sat for a few years with a leak in the sunroof. When I got it home the rear brakes were locked, and after replacing them I am not working on electrical to see why I can't get things to work. Next will be fluids and see if the engine turns over...
We ran this Wilwood dual circuit (remote reservoir) master on our 5.0L E30 Lemons car. Had firm pedal, but not didn't require excessive force.
Awesome work, that looks and sounds bad to the bone.
NYN
BeardedMuffin said:In reply to therealpinto :
That was going to be my first thing I looked into. No 2 swaps are ever the same so there will be some trial and error. Also, thinking about it, the master cylinder that I have is originally is designed for a dual master setup if I were to guess.
I run the Massive booster delete setup on my e30. Moves the pivot of the pedal assembly and retains factory style master. With my wilwoods I'm running the e32 master that's a hair larger. I saw that single circuit kit when I did my first m50 swap and cringed a bit.
http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-systems.php?p=brake-booster-delete
I also use the KAMotors flares. Really nice fit. They have two different widths. And if your late model is like my early model the factory fender lip is the joint of the inner and outer sheetmetal. Really easy to cut/bend up the inner and weld to the new outer location.
To dogpile a bit, when I was researching the LS swap on my E28, I came across that terrible single-circuit thing you got and couldn't believe that they were selling it. For the most part, I think (American) manufacturers learned better in the mid-1960s to stop using those things, but this was a time when they were also designing terrible front suspensions that worked with tires that were not safe over 55 MPH. At any rate, the funny thing was that the stock booster and master just fit with the LS in my E28 . . .
One weird setup I saw was on an (LS-swapped) E34, I think, and the booster was actually at the front of the engine compartment, somewhere behind the driver's side headlight. There are many ways to skin a cat, but avoid applying Colin Chapman-level weight loss when you're skydiving. You'll get there eventually!
rustomatic said:One weird setup I saw was on an (LS-swapped) E34, I think, and the booster was actually at the front of the engine compartment, somewhere behind the driver's side headlight. There are many ways to skin a cat, but avoid applying Colin Chapman-level weight loss when you're skydiving. You'll get there eventually!
That seems to be the go-to for e30 v8 swaps (either m60 or LS). The e34 remote booster or mustang in a remote setup. Hokey looking to me but I guess functional!
Sounds nice and rowdy. I'm just happy that you left the 318i badge on it. Gotta keep folks guessing.
Looks great and sounds great. Gives me hope on my swap moving under it's own power soon...
Thank you guys for all the information and compliments. I have some things to figure out for future references before I go and do any real crazy pulls or anything. But to kinda to get caught all the way up, the car has been on the dyno. Unfortunately there is no video, but that is because it wasnt quite successful. It was able to have the drivability done, but couldn't do WOT. Reason being that I didnt have the ebrakes on at the time bc I just wanted to just get it done. That ended up bitting me in the ass because apparently the ebrake keeps the rotor straight on the hub and was making my wheels wobble like crazy. It looked like one of those shark skateboard wheels. But he also said that there was a vibration. So I thought that was the axles. At this point, I still dont know if thats the issue because the axle is stuck in the hub and I cant get it out to save my life. The splines looked to be kinda messed up from what I can tell. So I still need to get it pressed out and replaced before I can figure anything else out. Also, I found out that I can use hood pins while still using the sprung hinge. So thats a plus.
Following. Nice build!!
I don't think the ebrake is what locates the rotor... Are you sure the bearing isn't just toast?
In reply to iansane :
yea, im 99% sure. Because when i put them back on, it was straight as an arrow.
So a another small update. I got the axle replaced and the vibration is still there. So I guess my next step is to contact the manufacturer and see what they will do. If they do nothing, then I guess i will need to find someplace that can balance it and go from there. Its always something with this damn thing.
Very cool build. How's the quality on your Sikky parts?
In reply to DaewooOfDeath :
Ive been pretty impressed with them. They are really well made. At least until I realized that the Sikky driveshaft is likely unbalanced. I havent had time to contact them and find out what my next step is.
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