I think part of the reason it looks so close to vertical in the first post, is because the paper was forward from the back edge of the endplate and the airdam about 1.5in, the top of that side piece is a bit more relaxed in the side-on image. That said, I think there's some benefit of pulling the bottom edge forward that 1.5" too.
Well I'm am totally tired of working on the splitter but it's going to be pretty awesome whenever it's finally done.
I tried to make it out of the really thin aluminum I have sitting around but I just don't think it's enough so this piece will be used as further templating. I figure the gaps can be closed with aluminum tape.
Seems pretty awesome already....
In reply to Nukem :
I appreciate that, thanks!
A little bit of work before work this morning and the final piece is cut and mostly fastened. The side piece still needs the underside mounts figured out.
It's beautiful!!
Hold on to your socks (or whatever particular garment flies off when you get excited).
We'll see how everything lands once the SM tires are on but... Damn, Guac! Tough.
I just unfolded and hammered out the existing flange on the wheel well and will either screw or rivet the flare to that. Can anyone explain to me why, even with how destroyed the paint is (especially on this side), it bothered me that so much of the paint cracked off?
Looking good!
I'm a little bummed that I didn't grab that hardtop for you when I had the chance.
In reply to Nukem :
Yeah that would have been amazing.
Passenger side done. Still need to rivet the flares to the hood but it's been too cold to put primer down to cover up where the paint cracked off.
It's not symmetrical by any stretch but I'd argue it is close enough for a car that's been upside down.
AxeHealey said:In reply to Nukem :
Yeah that would have been amazing.
Passenger side done. Still need to rivet the flares to the hood but it's been too cold to put primer down to cover up where the paint cracked off.
It's not symmetrical by any stretch but I'd argue it is close enough for a car that's been upside down.
That looks amazing. Don't redo it. Just #sendit.
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
Thanks! There's no way I'm redoing it!
Light work today (hah). Made the block offs for the lights as well as for the corners of the grille opening. I made a stupid mistake on the passenger side light block off while drilling for rivets that I corrected with some aluminum tape. That may or may not be redone.
Not pictured - the flares are now riveted to the hood.
If the next owner want's to make all of this out of a more suitable (thicker) material, they'll surely have some pretty good templates to work from!
The rad ducting has been the most tedious part of the splitter so far. I can't even say how many templates I went through trying to get this right with measurements and finally just cut a big piece of card stock and traced out what I needed. I'm not happy with the outcome but it's as good as it will get. I'll try to work up the gumption to do the upper piece.
In reply to AxeHealey :
Looks good from here!
I'd suggest finding a "contrasting" color you like and see if you can find some tape in the same-ish color. that'd be an easy way to seal some of the gaps between the airdam and the duct... plus some of the other bumper/closeout panels you've been making.
ala Nick Kohrs' GridLife StreetMod car...
AxeHealey said:In reply to wvumtnbkr :
Thanks! There's no way I'm redoing it!
Light work today (hah). Made the block offs for the lights as well as for the corners of the grille opening. I made a stupid mistake on the passenger side light block off while drilling for rivets that I corrected with some aluminum tape. That may or may not be redone.
Not pictured - the flares are now riveted to the hood.
If the next owner want's to make all of this out of a more suitable (thicker) material, they'll surely have some pretty good templates to work from!
Just add googly eyes and you are done.
I was planning on just using aluminum tape for the gaps but pops of color can be good. I also have a buddy with some large googly eyes in his possession so that is a possibility. This afternoon I got the rad ducting finished, the spacer blocks glued into place and made a pocket for a little nub on the rad to sit in so it's not so floppy.
Next I made a mess of the garage, myself and my lungs and attacked it with an angle grinder/flap disk combo and then a palm sander.
Top of the leading edge first. Some of the wonkyness in that pic is an illusion, most of it isn't... I will probably refine it a bit further.
Next was the underside.
Beside refining the top edge a bit, I think it's good enough for me and where it's going.
Oh, and in case some of you haven't seen my FMV request, I scored something pretty awesome.
From some quick measurements, it will be 52" wide once it's trimmed down equally on either side of the mounts.
Next time you need to radius a splitter don't forget I'm a carpenter
AxeHealey said:
From some quick measurements, it will be 52" wide once it's trimmed down equally on either side of the mounts.
that's interesting... I would have expected some internal structure, even out past the mounts. I guess they're really lightly loaded, and the monocoque with the carbon & nomex is enough?
you could almost just "dress the fracture", get some cheap foam at the hardware store (or balsa somewhere?)... use the "non broken" pax side to hotwire the core, then make a bit of it that slips down the front "d-section" to lock into place, and just wrap in carbon fiber vinyl?
supposedly there's some really thin ply that they use for packaging wood pallets to hardware stores with; which the stores generally throw away. That might be another budget-neutral method of shaping to match the existing foil and extending out to the original width.
I've had to fix a few fiberglass wings.
I'd cut it at the damage and make both sides equal.
Make 2 plywood end pieces that sit inside the nicely cut ends. Epoxy them in place.
For bonus points, epoxy a few star nuts in the backside before epoxying and then you can screw endplates in.
In reply to Patrick :
That's just silly. Why would I phone a friend when I can use the wrong tool and struggle through it myself with a worse end result?
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
More detail for you. No structure outside of the mounts aside from that tube that sticks out.
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
That's the strategy I'm shooting for. It's well more within my skill level than what sleepyhead suggested!
Bottom side painted (primed). Two coats of whatever house primer I had sitting on the shelf. I'll let it dry (freeze) and then it's time to flip it over and paint the top side.
it's probably better for me that you trim down to the good. then I can ask you to use the trimmed-off piece from the "good" side to trace out an outline, and then I/stafford can digitize the profile into xfoil/javafoil and run some 2d cfd
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
I can do that!
The splitter is back on the car and it still fits. Amazing. Even more amazing is that the rad ducting is good too.
I don't have any colored tape on the shelf but I do have plenty of aluminum tape because it's one of my favorite race car parts.
In other news, my friend that came over to help me cut the roof off frequents the Opposite-Lock forum, has been posting updates there as I've sent them to him and Guac was voted project of the year!
https://opposite-lock.com/topic/89540/oppoversary-contest-winners?_=1702124866422&fbclid=IwAR1eU9M_Mfq2s5hyqJ6q6Dok9LoiYo2ZT7D_ZDyAWoQtnvgj6WhMy0DuAj0
AxeHealey said:In reply to Patrick :
That's just silly. Why would I phone a friend when I can use the wrong tool and struggle through it myself with a worse end result?
Me every day!
In reply to AxeHealey :
cool! well deserved. congrats!
Nice work ! Love that aluminum sheet, where did you buy it? Locally or via the internet. Need some myself that that looks clean, straight, undented, and a decent gauge.
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