In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
We put an electric pump and transmission cooler into our endurance racer Civic Si without too much trouble. Before that, we had broken a gear tooth on 5th gear and on the final drive ring gear. I assumed it was from shock load, but the resident engineer of the team blamed heat. A pump and cooler still wouldn't spray oil specifically where you want it though..
In reply to dannyp84 :
It could with some judicious use of NPT fittings and a simple manifold.
I have all the bits to DO this, now...
It's probably worth adding a temperature sensor before spending the money...
On the RX8, other people have already measured the temp in the diff as easily reaching 300*f with the 4.77 and especially the 5.12. I'm planning on a diff cooler based on that info. The 8's transmission gets hot too but doesn't seem to get hot enough to warrant a cooler. At least based on my research so far.
not sure how much of that applies to the FC...
anyone know how to easily install a temp sensor in the transmission? Mine is out of the car right now so might be an opportune time to do so.
In reply to RX8racer :
Drill and tap the fill or drain plug for a 1/4" NPT fitting and use an electric sender or a mechanical gauge bulb. Easy to do and easily reversible/transferable.
This is how I put mechanical temp gauges on the engine. I pull out the coolant nipple for the throttle body on the rear end housing, drill to 7/16", tap for 1/4 NPT, insert adaptor. Mechanical gauge bulbs require 1/4NPT minimum, if you are electric there are probably some 1/8NPT senders you can use, if you are so inclined. I like mechanical because they always work even if the vehicle is off, and mechanical gauges usually are 270 degree sweep while electric are usually only 90 degree sweep.
I don't think the fill plug will work on the transmission or diff since the oil is filled up to the hole. Will probably work on the drain plug though.
There are lots of off the shelf options for oil and water temp. Oil filter sandwich plates, banjo bolts for the oil cooler. In line couplers for water etc
The flywheel wear is looking.. moderate to severe:
the car had a 4 puck ACT clutch I was unaware of, which is worn down to the rivets on the pucks. The Exedy sport clutch I bought before tearing into this won't work unless I machine or replace this flywheel, so I need to figure that out this week.
S4 or S5? I'll check my stuff, may have one for $comegetit
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
The car is an S4 but I think the motor is S5, is there an easy tell ?
When you take the flywheel off, there will be numbers cast into the engine side. Mazdatrix has a flywheel ID page that will tell you what you have.
I got the 52mm flywheel nut off with a giant breaker bar, it wasn't as difficult as I had anticipated so I imagine it wasn't torqued down all the way by the previous builder. Now I need to find a brass or lead hammer to knock the flywheel loose without damaging it, in case I need to get it machined.
I've haven't done many rebuilds but last couple of times an impact wrench failed on the nut and leverage worked better.
For flywheel removal I used a block of wood with a mini sledge hammer. Don't forget to thread the nut on a little so it doesn't fall on your foot.
3 hits from Ron the "babbitt knocker" and she's free. Per Mazdatrix's guide, this is a 21 lb S5 flywheel.
It seems this flywheel has been balanced by whomever built the motor last, so I wanted to just have it resurfaced in case throwing on a used OEM flywheel threw off the balance of the engine. However, I've had no luck with machine shops capable of doing the job with any kind of quick turn around, so the new plan is to have Logan at Defined match the balancing of this flywheel onto one of his spares for me to use. If he can't get it knocked out in the next week or so, I'll just throw the original back on with the old clutch and try and finish out the season, then deal with it over the winter.
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