Thanks for the input everyone. Sleeving a 3800 would be a big waste of money since there are millions of these blocks and they're all pretty worthless. A machine shop could probably bore this to about the maximum service limit and get that groove out of there, but there's really no point in that either unless I really wanted to push the limits of the 3800.
These aren't constructed like an SBC and slapping a bearing set into one of these engines is very ill-advised. The tolerances are very tight which means an align hone is inevitable if you're servicing the whole engine. I considered buying H-beams and forged pistons, but I need to be completely honest with myself about this. I don't have the funding, skills, or resources to build or even drive a car that will require those parts or expensive machining. An SBE is the 100% the way to go if you're building a 3800 under 700hp.
The blocks and cranks of all 3800 Series 2 and 3 NA and SC are all identical. The differences are in the rods and pistons. The SC has a deeper dish in the piston for lower compression and the rings are a bit further down the skirt to prevent chipping. There is no difference in pistons between Series 2 and 3. It's a toss up on which rods are stronger. The S2 SC (L67) has a stronger metallurgy but weaker shape than the S3 SC (L32). Most seem to think that the L32 rods are stronger, but there really isn't any relevant data to back this up. The S2 and S3 NAs (L36 and L26) are the same way. GM went with a cheaper but stronger shaped rod for the S3, but neither are stronger than the SC versions. Pistons are the same and more prone to chipping than the SC pistons. These are externally balanced engines so in theory you can put SC rods and pistons on and NA crank as long as you have the SC balancer and flex plate. Even without them, the balance difference is small enough that it will run just fine. However, none of the 3800 parts are forged. If you get good forged rods and pistons and slap them on the stock crank and block you'll be ready to make 1000hp. As mentioned though, that's all too rich for my blood.
SO!! After a lot of thinking, I made a tough decision. I wanted this L32 so that I would have a known healthy engine that gives me a lot of room to grow. However, a healthy engine is not what I received, so forcing the situation by spending a bunch of money on machine work didn't make sense to me. The plan is to finish yanking the L32 from the Grand Prix, popping that piston out, honing the cylinder, sticking new rings in there, and crossing my fingers. GRM style? That iffy engine is going back in the Grand Prix with the blower and water to air set-up. As for the Camaro, the engine is out and looks great. That being said, it is the ONLY good 3800 I've ever had on an engine stand. Despite the weaker rods and pistons, I am going to throw the upgraded heads and cam at the Camaro's L36. Also GRM style? After all, I am running a turbo with an air to air intercooler and E85, so detonation with a solid tune is very unlikely. My 600hp goal is very attainable on a stock NA bottom end.
Her goes nothing. Timing set is ready to come off.
The new double roller timing set requires the balance shaft to be deleted because the gears are in the way. The sloppy way to do it, is to just remove the gears and leave the shaft in the block, but that's silly in my case. The engine is out, and I have plenty of tools to ensure that oil isn't going places that it doesn't need to be.
Jammed a rag int he gears and drove the bolt off.
Now I'm left with this scene. There's a snap ring that holds the roller bearing into the block. It's a massive pain to remove, but I can mangle it since it's not going back in!
I'm still unsure how the front roller bearing gets oiled since there are no visible passages, but the rear basically has a cam bearing that's grooved on the block side. No matter how it's rotated in the block, the balance shaft will get oil. That needs to go too. For some reason I started salivating when the Mac Tool Truck guy showed me this cam bearing tool. I bought it five years ago and this was it's first time seeing the light! lol
It worked like a charm.
At this point I was a little mad at myself because I realized that I forgot to buy parts. Somebody long ago discovered that a smooth bearing of the same outer diameter as the 3800 balance shaft bearing is used for Mopar 440 cams. I bought a set of those and will drive one in with the oiling hole rotated 180 degrees. For now, I'm moving on. Cam time!
The next roadblock made me a little upset too. I bought these modified lifters a while back only to find that the rollers do not roll smooth and some of the oiling holes are full of metal. I emailed the supplier with my concerns and they told me to send them back so they can send me a new set. I sent them back, but I'm probably not using those either. I ended up buying Genuine Chevy Performance LS7 lifters for about 5x the cost. It'll be worth it for the piece of mind though.