Not a great start to my brake upgrade, but not a huge setback either. My cooling ducts didn’t look exactly like the ones I ordered. Sure enough they are way wrong, can I make them work, of course. I bought some so I could skip that step.
Probably an honest mistake and I won’t drive the thing until spring anyway. Depending on FulltiltBoogie’s response I may be making my own again.
Before
After
For now I’ll just install the calipers and rotors, to keep it mobile. A somewhat uneventful affair as everything just bolted right up. Now it annoys me that the ducts didn’t fit.
The rotors are about four lbs heavier but the caliper and pad combo is one less so not too bad. I’ll just have to lose three lbs on my next set of wheels.
If you're able to making your own backing plates I would opt for making some deflectors instead. You can see how I made mine in my build thread. I'm not messing with stupid hoses anymore.
In reply to Patientzero :
I am able to make my own and like the idea of deflectors. The problem is I already have all the stuff for adding hoses.
Fulltiltboogie got back to me, apparently they sent me parts for an SN95 not S197 Mustang.
I’ll get those swapped and move on.
I put hoses on my SN95 and rubbed holes in them in one event. I'm not rich enough to replace hoses after every event.
I ran homemade ducts on my 92 Mustang for six years on the same hoses, those ducts are now on my 89 notch Lemons car. Let’s hope this one works as well, I also can’t afford new hoses every year.
For the record Fulltiltboogie is sending me the correct backing plates and return postage for the wrong ones.
Correct plates installed.
Fits nice and tight to the rotor, probably even better once the wheel is on.
Time for an update.
That T2R Torsen from 2020 finally got installed. No issues there, except for it appears I have a leaky PS axle seal. The seal is new so I'll check to see if the breather is plugged.
I debated adding 13-14 GT500 caliper brackets and rotors for a rear upgrade but budget trumped my wants. Track time is more important than parts cannons this year.
Current plan is to hit the 5-9 TNiA at Gingerman, weather permitting. This will be on my very aged tires so no new PRs are expected. New diff on old tires should give me a better idea of how it behaves as I play with the lack of traction for a season. I really like the scientific method for my changes, mostly because I'm really slow at getting anything done.
Create a hole.
Add 100% more Torsten.
Never leave your Yorkie in the sun, they melt.
Torsens have a spider gear pin hole on one side and an axle retainer block on the other.
It was super handy to put the spider pin from the old diff in a vise, place Torsen over pin proceed to torque the ring gear bolts. Shade tree tip of the day.
The old gears had .010 lash, currently the new diff is back in with the same shims, I'll check that next.
I lost this tool for a few years, so glad to have it back. Notice the brand new NAPA seal that leaked. $15
This is the Ford Dealer part, totally different, softer rubber, an extra lip and $7.61.
Looks like new bushings are next.
I'm thinking an upgraded axle bushing and new arm with rubber on the body side.
Quick question.
11-14 S197 received a 1" longer upper rear control arm 9.5" vs 8.5". This makes it proportionately closer to the lower arm for less axle wrap or movement with vertical movements.
I need to swap parts anyway, why not upgrade right?
These zinc plated and rubber coated wire loom holders from McMaster Carr are the best duct ties. Always start in the middle and work out, right?
Nicely tucked. There is an existing hole in the radiator support that I taped 5/16-18 ,because what size it was, for mounting.
So, I destroyed this perfectly good duct, then determined it would be easier to recreate it out of steel than mount it.
After cutting the approximate angle I shoved a round peg in a square hole and marked the corners. Shoved that mess over a piece of angle iron and hammered it into a different shape.
Notice that nice mounting hole just above it.
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