It looks like there are robots peeking out from both middle vents
Heh. It would have been cooler had i planned it! I love my vintage cabinet pulls....
And yup. Screwed up the straight edge on the last vent making it look like a kidney bean.
In reply to stafford1500 :
The plan is to actually make a template off the nice side of the cut test Hood to transfer to the good Hood. I learned on the test piece that trying to follow the underhood bracing from the underside of the hood is an exercise in frustration and mistakes
In reply to stafford1500 :
Like this, but less crappy. (Just kidding. Its as crappy as it looks.)
Hopefully it's close....
You could possibly do some ducting from the radiator out the holes. Not exactly sure how it would work in the engine bay, but it might be worth some card-board and playtime.
Looks cool!
In reply to TVR Scott :
Youre right. Hmm....
Would mini side-waterfall ducts be as good as the normal center bigun?
Dusterbd13-michael said:In reply to TVR Scott :
Youre right. Hmm....
Would mini side-waterfall ducts be as good as the normal center bigun?
YES
stafford1500 said:Dusterbd13-michael said:In reply to TVR Scott :
Youre right. Hmm....
Would mini side-waterfall ducts be as good as the normal center bigun?
YES
Cool. Once this thing is hacked and fitted, ill post some pictures through the vents and we will see what the best way to do it is.
Again, reducing underhood pressure and increasing cooling capacity are the goals here. Looking cool is important too....
Little fine tuning and sent it to art for dent fixing! He owes me a favor, and i found more valspar....
Niw i need to find some fine metal mesh (like aluminium with 1/4 holes punched through it like a pasta strainer) to fill the big holes with.
Your screen door mesh idea will work for this application. Another alternative is metal lath for plaster/stucco. Maybe $3-4 for a 2ft*8ft sheet at most big box hardware stores.
stafford1500 said:Your screen door mesh idea will work for this application. Another alternative is metal lath for plaster/stucco. Maybe $3-4 for a 2ft*8ft sheet at most big box hardware stores.
I have a giant roll of screen door mesh. But, how would i attach it? With the metal i was thinking i could use rivets. Ideas? The lathe and pladter stuff has too much visual void (have a chunk that i tried)
Dusterbd13-michael said:stafford1500 said:Your screen door mesh idea will work for this application. Another alternative is metal lath for plaster/stucco. Maybe $3-4 for a 2ft*8ft sheet at most big box hardware stores.
I have a giant roll of screen door mesh. But, how would i attach it? With the metal i was thinking i could use rivets. Ideas? The lathe and pladter stuff has too much visual void (have a chunk that i tried)
Try using something like rtv/caulk/jb-weld from the back side of the hood. Not too close to the openings, but enough to keep it glued in place. You may even be able to hide the edges between the outer skin and the lower bracing of the hood. Possibly a big piece that covers all three openings on each side.
A little masking tape and some weights around the openings (while it is setting up and curing) will give the glue a nice finished look, if you see it at all.
I would use window weld in enough quantity to ooze through the lath. I have also seen at a big box store a 3x3 foot sheet of decorative expanded aluminum mesh. The same style expansion as "GutterGaurd" with an anodized finish in gold or black as well as clear like gutter gaurd. If you must use rivets make some 1/2 inch wide strips from the cut outs to hold 3 or more rivets.
just keep in mind that NA/NB miata hoods are aluminum... and if you mix AL and steel you'll get oxidization due to the dissimilar metals, iirc
going glue, might create enough of a barrier to that? or just make sure you go w/ aluminum mesh
Justjim75 said:Maybe 6 sheet metal frames with the screen sammiched between it and the hood with rivets?
Or maybe even plastic! I'll have to experiment with that see how it looks after it's painted in fitted to the car.
Sleepyhead: I keep forgetting about dissimilar metal oxidation. Thank you for the reminder.
I you use plastic, play around with flame to polish edges and some rough parts. The less soot the better, straight hydrogen is best but not common
Justjim75 said:I you use plastic, play around with flame to polish edges and some rough parts. The less soot the better, straight hydrogen is best but not common
Do you have any links to how to do that kind of thing? Never seen it done or even read a good article about it
For a short while, i built the boxes that lottery tickets are dispensed from. We rough cut with table and band saws, then ran the cut edges along an aluminum angle iron jig that had a brazing torch clamped to it at the end fueled by pur hydrogen. Cut, torch the edge, then use a syringe and 18 g needle and basically acetone to glue the parts together
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