AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:maschinenbau said:I'm still trying to figure out how he managed to go that slow in the drags.
a good comedian tells more than one joke.
But a good punchline is always funny!!
(Says the guy with three broken project cars)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:maschinenbau said:I'm still trying to figure out how he managed to go that slow in the drags.
a good comedian tells more than one joke.
Car has to run longer in order to provide the material.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
That was a good one. 
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
LOL. Better running than any of my projects, though.
The E36 M3 is deep but the love is real.
I've ran 160s 180s and 195 tstats in this exact engine (in a different platform though). The cooler tstats always resulted in cooler temps at speed or with adjusted fan temp settings.
I will say in a 4th gen with proper airflow a lower tstats temp will lower temps.
Will a lower tstats temp fix a problem or an overheat condition? No probably not, but they do generally make an operating cooling system run at a lower temp
Good example is 3.6 pentastars. Mopar redesigned the tstats housing, most of the aftermarket ones open too soon and result in about a 199-206 operating temperature and a P0128 and a new Mopar one will stabilize almost 20 degrees higher.
What I did at lunchtime today:
$35 for all 3.
So that's where my Talbots went....
TurnerX19 said:So that's where my Talbots went....
Do you want them? They won't work on the Corvair. I'm sad.
Today I finished up the throttle cable brackets. When I reversed the TB cam to make cable pull down and forward vs OE C4 up and back, I made the cable pull down and a little bit back, instead of mimicking the angle from the C4. So instead of having max leverage only for a few degrees before beginning to get harder, it had max leverage for about 45 degrees. This gave very little force feedback through the gas pedal, and made tip-in smoothness unpossible. Was:
So I moved the housing attachment up and forward, so now the cable angle coming off the TB cam is pretty close to what it was on the C4. These changes made the bracket very floppy, and I could see it bending as it approached WOT. Interim config:
so I fired up the CAD and added a stiffener:
and now it is, as my Dad would have said, stiffer than a honeymoon dick:
Under the car, I made two changes to the bellcrank. First I made the cable attachment more robust, by basically hacking together a copy of the attachment at the TB cam. How, you might ask? First I measured stuff. Cable end diameter is about 0.230". Cable diameter is about 0.060". Then I clamped two pieces of 14ga together and drilled a 1/4" hole through them. Then I cut a slot in one of them, 180 degrees from the direction the cable will pull as installed. Then I slipped a piece of 16ga between them and tacked the sandwich together. Here's a few pix:
Then I cut a scrap of 16ga 3/4" square tube to make a height spacer, so the cable was aligned with the housing, because efficiency. Then I added a 5/16" nut in between the spacer and the cable attachment because I can't measure E36 M3 right. I blocked the TB at WOT, pulled the cable tight below the car, set the pedal at the floor, hooked the cable to the attachment, and clamped it to the bellcrank off the gas pedal rod. I increased the lever ratio slightly so the gas pedal would sit a little closer to the floor at idle vs how it was at the challenge. Tacked it all together and here's how it is now, ugly but functional. Definitely good enough.
Then I went to install the LR wheel and noticed some slop at the UBJ, which I discovered was because the taper is machined a little too deep, and the nut bottoms on the thread before the taper is tight in the knuckle. So, with a 1/2" bit in the drill press I drilled something like 1/8" of the threads out and now it clamps up just like it should. No pix of that.
tomorrow, if the weather is good, I'll put the firewall in place and go back to tuning. I'd like to at least nail the idle so I can try to drive it again and collect some data.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:TurnerX19 said:So that's where my Talbots went....
Do you want them? They won't work on the Corvair. I'm sad.
I'll bet they'd work on a TVR...
TVR Scott said:AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:TurnerX19 said:So that's where my Talbots went....
Do you want them? They won't work on the Corvair. I'm sad.
I'll bet they'd work on a TVR...
$35 plus shipping and you can let us all know. ;-)
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Sent you an email!
In reply to TVR Scott :
replied
Not much to report, haven't had a ton of time to work on this. Thanks to on-the-fly controls built in to EEHACK, i know that she favors 12.7:1 air:fuel at idle, and seems to like 32* BTDC and 900 rpm as warmed-up idle settings. It's pretty stable and not too smoky at these settings, but idle quality gets worse when it switches into Closed Loop, and my IAC counts at warmed-up idle are still a lot higher than I expected (120) with butterflies totally closed.
The advice and experience of other LT1 geeks suggest that with the LT4 hot cam kit, the VE table could be as much as 30% fat below torque peak. What to do? Well, start by digging up as many dyno reports as I can find for engines with LT4 hot cam kit. Actual values vary, but it looks like peak torque occurs at 3500 rpm. Then I opened up the VE table and see that there are 14 lines from 800 rpm to 3400. To make the math easy, I said "28 is pretty close to 30, and 28/14=2", so I reduced existing VE table by 2% per RPM step, from 3400 (-2%) down to 800 (-28%). I was also specifically advised to reduce MAF table by 10% below 4kHz, and by 5% from 4kHz-8kHz, so I did. I blended the transition across a few steps on each side of 4kHz and across a few steps at 8kHz so it wouldn't have 5% steps at those values. Then I changed the closed throttle spark advance values at 400 and 800 rpm, saved, and flashed this BIN into the car. She started right up, but wouldn't settle into a steady idle. EEHACK told me the timing was at 47* BTDC. WTF? So I grabbed the timing override and reduced 2, then 4, then 6, then berkeley it pulled 15*. With each change, it would smooth out momentarily then start hunting again, bouncing from 860 to 1050, very strange. Thinking something might have flaked during the reflash, I shut her off and copied the BIN out of the PCM, and sat down in front of the laptop, where I found this:
Yeah, that's supposed to be 27, not 127. That explains why the timing was railed at the overall max value of 47*. So I corrected that and saved a new BIN, but ran out of time so didn't get to test it. Will do that tonight. I really need to get idle behavior dialed so I can move on to driveability stuff.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Tuning is great when you get your head all wrapped around it. I jacked the traction control PID by a simple lack of a zero behind the decimal at a track in Spain (Jarama circuit). Luckily I had the backup ECU programmed with the previous version and was able to swap it quickly and get the car back on track without any significant loss of practice time. Always back up your settings and be ready to revert, just in case...
32 degrees at idle? I am a little shocked, most engines like 20ish or less with a distributor. Some even pull timing really far back at idle to make things smoother.
It may never idle at stoich. A lot of old tech GMs had to idle in open loop and rely on the air pump to keep the cat happy. Or rely on the air pump to add oxygen to force the engine rich enough to idle well (and also keep the cat happy).
Less timing means you can run it a little leaner, usually. Also, a lot of tip in stumbles are actually timing issues, not fuel.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:32 degrees at idle? I am a little shocked, most engines like 20ish or less with a distributor. Some even pull timing really far back at idle to make things smoother.
It may never idle at stoich. A lot of old tech GMs had to idle in open loop and rely on the air pump to keep the cat happy. Or rely on the air pump to add oxygen to force the engine rich enough to idle well (and also keep the cat happy).
Less timing means you can run it a little leaner, usually. Also, a lot of tip in stumbles are actually timing issues, not fuel.
I know in the large cam LT1 world its pretty common to run a bunch of timing at idle.
Angry I believe Brent Frankers old site has a couple of professionally tuned hot cam tunes you can download for free, maybe use as a reference point.
In reply to Opti :
i found the site but didn't see anything that looked like bin files. some links are broken. i think there's enough info on gearhead-EFI.com and ECMHack.com and https://www.lt1pcmtuning.com/tips/ for me to get it done.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Opti :
i found the site but didn't see anything that looked like bin files. some links are broken. i think there's enough info on gearhead-EFI.com and ECMHack.com and https://www.lt1pcmtuning.com/tips/ for me to get it done.
Thats Solomons site.
Sorry should have realized some random obscure name wasnt the best directions haha.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/LT1Edit/LT1files.htm
Not even sure if the links are still live, ive never used one
Dammit I just lost a long update and my thumbs are too tired to recreate it. Fixed the timing table, flashed the new BIN, and she started and idled pretty good. I logged a few minutes of data, and it was cool to watch the IAC and MAP values move as I changed the open loop AFR and spark advance.
I'm gonna get the battery load-tested tomorrow, as it doesn't like to restart hot. Charging system is good according to PCM.
Anyway, idle seems to be pretty happy at 32* BTDC and 12.5:1 AFR. IAC is still around 116 so I might need to enlarge the bypass hole in the TB. So she found herself outside today to make room for Ody maintenance.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
What's the battery voltage when the car isn't running? Weak cranking when hot is almost always the starter in my experience.
obsolete said:In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
What's the battery voltage when the car isn't running? Weak cranking when hot is almost always the starter in my experience.
But this is China's finest Audi 2.0T 4-cyl starter I'm using to spin this 10.5:1 5.7L V8. It can't possibly be the starter.
and by "can't possibly be", I totally mean "is". Battery tested fine. I'm gonna take it to a local starter and alternator guy, see if it can be saved.
I find tuning really, really addictive.
Latest status:
- the 700 CCA C4 battery and the 275 CCA lawn tractor battery both load tested good by Batteries Plus.
- the starter tested good by AutoZone.
so, if these results are to be trusted, I'm back to one or both battery cables having excessive resistance when hot. Perhaps the (-) is more likely, as PCM gets fed downstream of starter and datalog shows PCM Voltage at 12.3V when it won't friggin hot crank.
I will remove B+ and B- cables and inspect them, and I will temporarily relocate battery to the floor behind passenger seat. This will allow me to use a much shorter B+ and a marginally shorter B-. If hot start is resolved and I decide to keep it there, I'll add the required battery box and cutoff switch.
Also, Dusterbd13 approved my 2024 graphics package, and we all know he's got an eye for that sort of thing.
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