Tragic that I live in Pittsburgh but have never been to PittRace. The only thing keeping me from going there is time and money.
Tragic that I live in Pittsburgh but have never been to PittRace. The only thing keeping me from going there is time and money.
In reply to Scotty Con Queso :
Come to our May event and spectate for free! Our chapter is working hard to make HPDE's more accessible to everyone. I'm sure we could get you a ride with an instructor in any number of fast track cars.
I recently convinced the stock tachometer and speedometer to read correctly. A few months of trial and error, and I went from this:
To this:
Feels so awesome not to have wires dangling all over. The Dakota Digital box lives in the dash behind the gauges, and I also installed an analog boost gauge. Still need to install a fuel gauge with the right resistance curve, and decide what other gauges to put in the dash. The OEM ones either don't work (ECT) or are inaccurate (volts).
Last year I wrapped up the HPDE season knowing I wanted to make a changing in my trailer setup. It was getting old renting U-Hauls. Convenient not having to store or maintain it, but the following factors sealed the deal to buy my own:
-Sunk rental cost
-Not always available - having to reserve months in advance
-Lack of storage (tires, tools)
-Having to load everything up the night before or day of the event, and repeat as soon as I got home from a long hot weekend
Step 1: Sell old HF trailer. I had this thing for almost 7 years and beat it to death hauling mowers, firewood, anything and everything. Paid for itself many times over. I refinished it and got full asking price for it.
Step 2: Acquire used Penske hauler.
Slightly different from U-Haul transport:
-6 lug axles
-longer ramps
-slightly lighter (~200 lbs)
-torsion axles rather than leaf sprung
-relocated tongue jack allows tool box mounting
Step 3: Add toolbox from old trailer.
Step 4: Design tire rack
One of the gripes I had was loading/unloading spare tires, tools, etc in the back of my tow rig for every event. The rack allows me to easily transport spare wheels while also serving as storage between events. My toolbox holds most of my "dirty" gear (jack, toolbag, spare fluids, jackstands, etc). I still need to figure out where to put my gas cans - thinking about a small removeable "cage" between the toolbox and front of the deck.
Step 5: Build tire rack out of 1" square .120" wall tube.
Step 6: Engage hover mode on M3 to start track prep
Step 7: Put M3 wheels on rack. I added a removable vertical brace at the front of the rack for some additional support.
Now that the trailer is loaded with tools and wheels, I can test fit the car and play with placement to figure out ideal tongue weights.
I am not much of a car show person as I prefer to be around cars when they're in motion, but my family enjoys these events so I decided to compromise:
Selling my daily driver if anyone is interested:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/cars-sale/fs-2016-bmw-f15-x5-35i-x-drive/271277/page1/
nsogiba said:I am not much of a car show person as I prefer to be around cars when they're in motion, but my family enjoys these events so I decided to compromise:
I missed this when you first posted it.
Nice 
(also, trailer's looking good. have you pulled the car on it yet? How's it tow?)
In reply to Indy - Guy :
I have towed it, empty and full, about 400 miles round trip down to Pittrace and back. The surge brakes were barely activating which required me to drive accordingly, but as long as the tongue weight was kept at 600 lbs, stability was good.
I wasn't crazy about the stability of the tire rack, it was moving left to right over big bumps a bit due to being top heavy - unfortunately I can't add much bracing diagonally as it will impede the ability to park a larger vehicle on the trailer (I plan on renting this trailer out).
Plan is to fix the surge brake (master cylinder), and fine tune the load balance. I am planning on selling the X5 as I want to eventually pull a camper, which wouldn't be great with the short wheelbase of the X5. But, with 6,000 lbs (trailer+M3) and 600 lbs on the ball, tows fine.
In reply to nsogiba :
How about adding removable diagonal supports? That terminate at the lower junction point of your already removable center support? Crude sketch to illustrate:
Funny you mention that, right before my trip I put on 2 ratchet straps exactly as you showed to help anchor it against the middle. It helped but didn't fix entirely.
Came across a post about your Jaaaaaaagg in another topic last week and I've read the entire thread over the course of the week in spare hours here and there. Love seeing what you're up to, I remember reading your E39 and C5 threads on ls1tech or some old LS forum when you were working on those. Keep doing fun E36 M3 and writing about it!
reiernumans said:...... Keep doing fun E36 M3 and writing about it!
I'm quoting this so I have the opportunity to give it another thumbs up 👍
Make sure your brakes are adjusted correctly, I get a trailer a week that the adjuster is frozen so they are relying completely on the controller turned to 11 and locking up one position.
In reply to reiernumans :
Thanks for the support, I love when people enjoy my ramblings.
My front springs were looking a little worse for the wear, so I'm experimenting with some aftermarket replacements meant for a Ford. They comparable in dimensions and spring rates, so we'll see how they work out once I get the car back together. For reference my car is lumped with an iron LS engine which should be a bit lighter than the original XK 6.
https://youtu.be/-NQEy0-gXK0?si=5oA7n74nYdp-ZooL
In reply to chandler :
This is a surge brake with no external controller. It relies on inertia from the trailer load to compress a spring and actuate the master cylinder.
In reply to nsogiba :
I hope the new springs work out for you .
Nice work on the Moog cross reference.
Few updates here and there.
M3 continues to be the ultimate do it all vehicle. I changed the oil, wheels and pads after the last HPDE at the Glen and took the kids to daycare all week in extreme comfort.
I finshed up the subframe and steering rack rebuilds on the XJ6.0. No more leaks! Also a very reliable vehicle despite being pretty thirsty. Between the heavy foot and high ethanol content I'm scared to track economy.
The 2016 X5 has been sold locally. It was another great "do it all" vehicle but I wanted to get away from having a payment, and get into something that could better tow a travel trailer as we plan to purchase one of those at some point.
With that being said - I'm in the middle of closing the deal on a new tow/winter vehicle. It's an '05 and spent the first few years of its life in Washington state, and then lived in Idaho for 15 years so it's very clean. Spoiler alert - it has a V8.
It has been a long time coming but the prophecy has finally been fulfilled. I sold my X5 a few weeks ago and brought home a new DD. I now own nothing but V8 powered vehicles.
2005 Suburban 2500, 6.0/80E, 4.10s, LT package with heated leather, 3rd row, rear seat entertainment, everything I need and nothing I don't. This popped up on CL in Phoenix and although I considered doing a fly and drive, the schedules didn't work so I just had it shipped. Having driven it for a few days now I wouldn't hesitate to go across country though.
I already pulled off the crazy dark tint and need to clean the interior a bit. For the mileage it's in nice shape and most importantly there is no rust on the body, and minor surface rust on the frame as it lived in Idaho most of its life.
Fits in the garage with a little room to spare.
Stupid amounts of space inside. I love it
The short term plan is to change every fluid and do a general tune up, plugs/wires etc. I plan to replace the headlights since they're all cloudy and install a Z71 lower valence with the round fog lights. I have a 41930 upgraded hitch on the way and right before winter I'll paint the exposed areas of the frame and then have it undercoated (recommendations on products?).
The long term plan is a small turbo and drive the wheels off it.
I spent a few days after it arrived changing the oil in the engine, trans, and differentials. Still need to do the transfer case.
Slapped on a 41930 hitch and put it to the test towing my M3 300 miles round trip down to Watkins Glen for an HPDE weekend. I slept in the truck for 3 nights at the track with plenty of room for all my overnight and cooking stuff. The rig was comfortable and towed great, no doubt due to the long wheelbase and heavy weight.
My only gripe was that I wished for a bit more power up the hills. Which brings me to my next thoughts regarding the turbo build...
Definitely going to stick with a stock cam, but will be upgrading valvesprings. I've had good luck with the PAC1218s in my turbo 6.0 Jaguar but may use a high quality dual spring from BTR for extreme reliability.
The two big things I'm still pondering are the turbo choice and torque converter.
I am brainstorming for the turbo build and still need to talk with Viren at VSR, but I'm thinking a cast 6673 or 7875 would be good. I don't plan to exceed 10-12 lbs or 5500 rpm as this is a towing rig, so I think the 7875 might be overkill. The goal is reliablity and instant boost response at a low RPM (2000 or so). Don't think I want or need more than 500 whp.
Regarding the converter - research has told me that sticking with a stock converter for towing is the way to go. I agree with this on the premise that a low stall will heat the trans fluid less, but my concern is that towing up long hills under boost with the stock converter clutch locked may chew up the clutch and trash the trans.
On the other hand, a looser converter like I have in my 6.0 turbo Jag is amazing for getting up to 3000rpm quickly and lighting off the turbo rather than lagging off the line. A triple disc will also allow me to lock the converter under boost up hills, although I'm not sure even that will survive under boost with 6000 lbs of truck and 7000 lbs of trailer behind it.
Other random thoughts...
-HD2 kit in 80E, Trucool 40K mounted low up front
-The 4.10 gears in it will help get the big girl moving
-Cast china log, small 2.25/2.5" crossover and 3" DP into a straight through muffler
-Enable Flex fuel with sensor, run blend of 93 and E85 depending on availability and need
-Suggestions on injector? I like the Deka 80s.
-Wally 450 in tank in the stock basket
3" A2A I/C
Open to suggestions on turbo and converter.
I had a Borg Warner 66/73 on my 5.3 LS with 2.25 hotside, and it lit off at like 2000 RPMs (3.07 rear and 26 inch tire, though). It worked great, in other words, scaring you on a pants level around 4500 (3000 pound car). Deka 80s worked fine; they work even better with the Holley, which now has the data available for the Terminator--I have this setup on my N/A LS3 now. I am also a huge fan of the Wally 450--it's quiet and reliable. I am also an ass with 3/4 vehicles that have V8s . . .
Thanks for the input! Would love to see that build.
I like the 7875 but look forward to better thought out recommendations than "it was $167" which is how I landed on it. Definitely interested in converter recommendations. I have a nearly identical truck with a nearly identical use case.
Been wrenching on the truck a lot but keep forgetting to take pictures. Winter is coming fast so I'm really trying to get all the deferred maintenance done so that I can undercoat this thing.
Pulled the fender liners for a few reasons:
-Wanted to inspect the frame to see if any corrosion was present
-Better access for undercoating
-Needed access to broken exhaust manifold bolt
The frame looks good but was definitely spray bombed by someone in the past. The bare areas show some minor surface rust but that's to be expected for a 20 year old truck. After doing some research I think Woolwax will be the best product for this application.
I zipped off the 5 remaining manifold bolts, and one of those broke coming out. Therefore, 2 broken bolts to extract on the driver's side...far back and up front.
Best method ever for removing these: weld 'em up. Done this one every LS I've ever owned/swapped and it works every time.
Pulled the plugs while I was in there, pretty decent but might as well
Wire wheeled the gasket surface
Replaced all 5 rubber brake hoses and successfully replaced all 4 bleeders. 3/4 had the bleed hole clogged solid
While I was waiting on some parts I made a trip to a few junkyards locally. Picked up Z71 front air dam off this 03 Tahoe and also found a pretty rare 06 LTZ that I grabbed the Z71/Chrome roof rack from. Also grabbed the e-fans from that thing for next year.
Home stretch with winter prep. Removed the fender flares and wheel liners, started spraying woolwax. Easy to apply with the supplied gun in the kit, just messy and a little uncomfortable laying on my back.
Painted the tow hooks front and rear to modernize things a bit. Stripped the grille down to repaint it body color as well.
Painting didn't go well. I need to do a better job cleaning parts before beginning.
Rolled around town for almost a month with no grille looking terrible. Lots of snow in WNY also. Surprisingly the truck handles it well in 2WD.
More painting frustration. Learning to do a better job of cleaning and timing my subsequent coats so that there are no reactions. Lots and lots of sanding after this...
Many hours later...
Caution, GMT800 Propaganda ahead
All that's left to install on the exterior is a chrome Z71 roof rack I pulled off an '06 LTZ in the fall. I'm also thinking it needs a 2" spacer on the rear to give it more of a bulldog stance and fill out the flares.
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