I tried 1/2-2/3 side to side, spinning hte pump by hand, lock to lock, nothing. Its not running yet so that's not an option at this point. Just trying to prevent an early pump failure. Granted it's like $13 for a new pump so....
I tried 1/2-2/3 side to side, spinning hte pump by hand, lock to lock, nothing. Its not running yet so that's not an option at this point. Just trying to prevent an early pump failure. Granted it's like $13 for a new pump so....
So yesterday and today got some more stuff done. New throttle cable/bracket and springs made and installed. Looks slick. Headers smashed in all the right places to clear spark plugs. Trans crossmember completely installed and shifter reinstalled. Doing so meant I had to loosen the fuel pump to get the bracket in which then I pulled the ground loose. So got back under and tried a different ground location and it works better.
Still need belts a starter, coolant filled and trans fluid reinstalled. Hook up exhaust to headers. Install a timing tab so I can properly set the timing. Hook up fuel pump wire to fuse box. Then Try to start it.
Running out of steam. Maybe I should eat some more turkey
Would you mind taking a picture at some point to show how low the headers hang? If they’re tucked in better than my current ones I will order a set.
Drivers sits about an inch below the frame rail. Passenger sits about 1/2” below. You do need to smash the front tube a little to clear the lca on the drivers side. Passengers required no modifications at all.
Woohoo.... tires will be here tomorrow (275/40/18) and I'm taking them and the new wheels up to my friend's place to mount/balance them. Engine cranks doesn't fire yet, but fuel pump is fully wired and plumbed with no leaks. Lost the power connection on the distributor so by the time I got it fixed I was tired.
In reply to bobzilla :
Excellent, thanks. That is better than my current set.
moving under its own power. New wheels and tires (275/40/18 on 18x9.5). Header leak fixed. Ps leak found. Still needs timing and carb adjustment because it doesn’t want to idle yet. Sounds mean as hell.
Old school traction bars have never looked this GOOD!!!! Stance...wheel diameter/style are perfect......well done ,Happy New Year to you!!!
awesome, way to go!
Diggity!
That is SWEET!!! Looks great!
The left rear sits abut an inch and change lower than the right rear. I have a feeling that spring is just worse. I really need to 4-link and coilover it.
I cheated... I'm running the 1" spacers in the rear. Filled out better back there than without. Fronts have no spacers and clear the fenders nicely.
That engine bay looks fantastic.
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
It looks better in pictures. Unless you're talking about the lack of clutter in general. That I can agree with. There are footprints in the engine bay because it's just easier to climb in there and work than lean over the fenders.
Today was a good day. Good is back on. Ps leak fixed. Idles now. Took it for a quick drive and smoked out my neighborhood. Apparently the passenger vc gasket decided to go MIA and dumps 50psi of oil pressure out onto the header. Timing is still off a hair. But damn..... this thing has some serious balls.
So with the impending bike sale.... I've decided that I'm not married to leaf springs. I think the Ridetech rear coilover/4-link kit is what I want back there. Loses the axle hop and gives me adjustability that I don't currently have.
Fuel leak fixed, oil leak fixed. Timing pretty close. Carb adjusted. Getting closer.
Also oil pressure coming back down to what I would believe. Idles at 45psi 2k it’s 60. Much better than the 80 is was showing before. I used a LOT of assembly lube. I guess it did it’s job.
Finally warm enough to drive it. Took it to a buddies house to install pre-made brake lines that don’t fit anything on his 69 Mach 1. Back roads, in town and interstate. Sounds like poo because of the horrible exhaust leaks at the collectors. But holy berkeley this thing runs. Where the old engine was done at 4500rpms and floating valves around 5200 this thing pulls like a freight train through 5500( which is where I wussed out and shifted). I know the cam is supposed to make power from 1800-5800 or some such nonsense but I didn’t believe it. Now I do.
Video! Video!
Redline, Redline! /FerrisBueller
Doing some research and it appears that ridetech uses 6" 750lb springs for the rear coilover kit. I happen to have a pair of 6" 700lb eibach springs. How much of a difference is that extra 50lb going to really make? Truck is right around 3600lb with the vast majority of that weight over the front tires. I can get some nice DA coilover shocks in the right length for around $300 and use my springs and save $400 over the ridetech kit. Thoughts?
it sounds like less of a difference than mazdeuce changed his springs on the traccord
send it!
You'll need to log in to post.
