You ever figure out what oil pan is in there? Crazy that it's so deep - some sort of ultra-high capacity unit.
You ever figure out what oil pan is in there? Crazy that it's so deep - some sort of ultra-high capacity unit.
Should we get you a pop up canopy until the new shop is built? Keep the rain and sun off?
Now that i say that, thats a pretty good idea for doing my grinding and sanding outside.....
In reply to TVR Scott :
Not yet. I'm guessing it's a Summit deep pan. It'll be interesting to see if it's set up with baffles and stuff.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
We have shade in that area it just gets way hot way to early. Doesn't help that I'm working outside most of the week. I'm usually recovering from dehydration on Friday but much better Saturday. I hope to get on it early tomorrow and see how it goes.
Today I took a sawzall to Dug.
I was lazy this morning so I sat around watching YouTube videos of tree felling. I felt guilty so after lunch I jumped back on it.
First order of business was disconnecting the battery. While taking my morning E36 M3 it hit me that the battery was still hooked up and here I was banging the headers all around the starter trying to get them out.
I decided to see what I needed to remove to get clearance and rotated it just the right way for it to drop out the bottom. I'll chalk that up to being hot and tired yesterday.
Jumped over the the driver's side knowing it would be more difficult because of stuff in the way. First I removed the alternator and rediscovered that if something is too small for 7/16 and too big for 3/8ths then GM snuck a 10mm in there.
After that I removed the Z bar I went below to remove the exhaust coupler. I don't know if y'all didn't notice or y'all were trying to be polite but no one mentioned that the bolts on the coupler didn't have nuts.
Turns out that it didn't matter because they were stuck in there. I couldn't get a 9/16ths to fit on the rounded off bolts so I used the sawzall to cut right behind it.
Now it was just the header bolts and the spark plugs. I took the header bolts off first as that gives more room to get the socket on the plugs. I took number 1 plug out and I swear the header pretty much fell out the bottom. Just needed a little twist to get it on the ground.
Now I was at a good stopping point as the sun was taking away my shade so I put up the tools and headed inside.
Almost forgot. Looks like the passenger side was banged around to get them to fit.
Dusterbd13-michael said:Should we get you a pop up canopy until the new shop is built? Keep the rain and sun off?
Now that i say that, thats a pretty good idea for doing my grinding and sanding outside.....
I've got one of these sized for my driveway for when it gets Florida-hot out. Really helps. Couple hooks on the front of the house, ratchet strap to the big ole oak tree, another to a post. Golden
https://www.amazon.com/Rectangle-Canopy-Sunrays-Carport-Backyard/dp/B08ZXC95TH
In reply to yupididit :
Clearing the backyard was step one. Still a lot more steps. Have to figure out where to temp store cars because I think I need to take out three large oak trees. Two in the way and one needs to come down anyway.
In reply to Stampie :
Exactly what I use it for. Sturdier than a tarp, which I started out with, one good gust of wind from the wrong angle and it pops the grommets on a tarp.
Figure out the size you want beforehand, though. I thought I wanted really big and its almost at the point where it's unusable. Most of the cheap ones are really small, or oddly shaped, so make sure you look at what you're buying.
Today I got back on Dug. First I removed the idler arm connection to the frame hoping that'd give enough room at the front of the oil pan. Next I crawled under to remove the oil pan bolts.
Notice the pretty harmonic balancer?
Signs that just maybe the oil pan was a little too low.
Everything went smooth except for two of the 7/16ths oil pan bolts. Both were too close to the pan to get a socket on them. The one up front was handled with an open ended wrench. This little berkeleyer faught me.
So back to yep I need to take out the oil filter. I took wvumtnbkr's advice and got some vice grip oil filter pliers.
Got them to lock on and hold but I still can't move that filter. Back to trying to get the bolt out. Finally was able to hammer a 12 point socket onto the bolt and get it out.
Then I discovered the inspection cover was clipped onto the pan.
Damn it why are you fighting me? Got the cover off and got warm fuzziest looking at the fly wheel.
Ok now it should come off. Nope. I keep looking at stuff trying to figure out what's hanging up. It's hitting on the steering since but I should be able to get the back down and slide it off. Then I discovered it's hitting the starter. Damn it. I stare at it for a few minutes and decide I'm done for the day. Back on it tomorrow.
Have you got space to hook a slide hanger to the vice grips?
I guess applying enough heat to cook the filter gasket might get you there, ultimately it's the filter gasket that's holding it back.
In reply to Gammaboy :
I don't think so. We grabbed a strap wrench that has a longer handle. If that doesn't do it I'll try a strap to a frame member.
Damn. Those have never lost for me. I actually can't believe it.
Damn.
I got nothing else but destruction...
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
They hold so that's a bonus. I just can't get enough torque into it. Maybe I'm just getting old.
Gammaboy said:Have you got space to hook a slide hanger to the vice grips?
I guess applying enough heat to cook the filter gasket might get you there, ultimately it's the filter gasket that's holding it back.
Oscillating tool to cut the gasket, or a razor blade. If you can introduce a weak point in the gasket you are home free.
That doesn't work, shotgun.
Flat screwdriver between block and filter to deform the seal? You're not really going to hurt the iron block
I know you're sick of throwing tools at this, but I have another "never failed" suggestion. Maybe you can borrow one?:
TIL to make sure your torque wrench clicks before using it.
So this morning we got started on removing the starter. Lil Stampie wanted to get involved until he figured it that gravity was going to not be his friend.
I held the starter from the top so that he was safe. After that the pan came down some but I ended up disconnecting the passenger tie rod to get more space.
The crank numbers come out to be stock 350 crank. 2 bolt mains just like we were told.
After we got the space from removing the pan we got working on the oil filter. First Lil Stampie tried the strap wrench but it just spun on him. I got under and used the vice grips. After really getting them on there I swear I saw it move like 5 degrees. Wondering if I imagined it I put more force into it and sure enough it's moving but slowly. I think I got like 5 full turns before I could do it by hand. Sure enough the gasket was bone dry.
We started putting the new oil pump together. I was all prepared to measure the pickup height and weld the tube on only to discover that Kevko's custom pickup was designed for this pan and just bolts to the oil pump.
Removed the old pump and after a lot of scratching my head figured out how to get the oil pump shaft transferred over. Hint there a grove it seats into. I just used a brass punch to knock it off. Someone put in the upgraded steel collar one in.
At this point assembly is the reverse of disassembly. I got out the torque wrench that I haven't used in forever and set it to 65 ft lbs. Got the bolt tight with a rachet and put the torque wrench on. Kinda thought hey I'm putting a lot into this but it was tight getting it off also. Then it turned easier and I got that sick feeling in my stomach. This is what a main cap looked like when you over torque the oil pump.
Still has threads up in there but I pulled these out.
Right then it started raining so I sat there and stared at my dumbassness while Lil Stampie put away tools. I'll figure out what to do but thinking another main cap and hopefully transfer the bearing over.
Copy and paste from what I just text Michael.
Seems your supposed to align bore it afterwards. Ok remove it, take it to a machine shop. Have them drill it out, press fit a sleeve, then thread the sleeve.
New plan.
There's still threads in the cap.
This is it bottomed out. My caliper says there's still another quarter inch until the bearing. I say I get a slightly longer bolt and run with it.
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