Nocones $2020 challenge build thread

In reply to nocones :

I can Imagine what you could do with 10K. My mind would be even more blown!!!

nocones said:

I've always wondered what it would be like to build a car where you don't try to save money on things.  Someone on a group I was on was talking about starting a project and the budget would be ~100K so paying $4-5k for the starting point wasnt a big deal.  My brain can't even imagine what I could build for that..  

My wife and I have agreed to $50k+ for the GT, I think $3200 for the start. I have about 11 in the car fund currently. I am hoping that is the pro welded chassis and them some but no clue.

Chassis done, it is all on me. But, damn, that outlay is tough. Add to that, my daily summer ride bagged me for way too much since December. But, the wife wants that daily. I'll trade the Cayman for a stupid Opel any day.

I am not wealthy by any means, but we are enthusiasts, and I will capitalize on that.

java230 said:

In reply to nocones :

I can Imagine what you could do with 10K. My mind would be even more blown!!!

This.

NOHOME said:

This is one of the awesomorerest pics posted ever. 

Maybe turn the three bolts into a face?

 

Or maybe a digital dash?

BarryNorman said:

NOHOME said:

This is one of the awesomorerest pics posted ever. 

Maybe turn the three bolts into a face?

 

Or maybe a digital dash?

I like that idea!

I have a brand new digital motorcycle cluster i got from Ebay that i never used. Yours if you can use it nocones!

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

Do you have a link to it so I can see if I can use it?  It would be a next year thing if I could so no big rush.

In reply to nocones :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gauges-Cluster-Universal-Motorcycle-Digital-Colorful-LCD-Speedometer-Odometer-/164591990181?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Worked on the firewall ($9.58)  last night.  Due to the roll bar and needing to be up against the seats it has to be 3 pieces (I was hoping 2).  Templating it up and forming it only took about 1 hr but notching the narrow side and figuring out that it needed to be split again took another 1.5 hrs.  

I still need to trim the larger side and notch it around the roll bar diagonal but that won't take long.  I've developed a plan for how it's going to interface with the body and still allow the body to be removed.  I'm planning to make the body 1 piece removable leaving the fenders/sidepods in place to be removed as individual units.  The goal is the body will be ~10 (4 fenders, hood, main body, 2 sidepods, fin/trunk)  easily removable pieces.  The trick is doing anything quick release on the cheap.   We will see how many of those pieces show up at the challenge.

I'm not planning on a windshield this year but if I did put one in what is the minimum thickness the NHRA accepts?  

Linky

Very bottom of page 35 ( I hope the link works) but looks like 1/8 inch minimal thickness

In reply to DjGreggieP :

Link doesn't work.

Nocones, I think you have to at least have a wind Deflector of that minimum 1/8" thickness to be NHRA legal for drags. I saw from 2015 the size minimum was 5"x12", I need to verify that's still true for my build as well.

I have extra material at challenge friendly price I'll be bringing down if you need some, worst case.

Edit:

On open bodied cars, or any other class car without a windshield, a metal or other fireproof deflector must be installed. Minimum size in street roadster and Altered class cars is 5 inches x 12 inches. The deflector should divert wind, liquids, and foreign matter over the driver's head, be securely mounted, and installed in such a manner that it does not obstructel the driver's view in any way. Tape of any kind is prohibited on any transparent windscreen. The use of any temporary shielding, including paint, that obstructs the Driver's vision (e.g., blinders, staging aids) and that is attached to the helmet or windscreen is prohibited.

I thought polycarb could be used for this, but it almost reads like it should be sheet metal?

I don't think I can add anything above the bottom of the window without obstructing my vision.  That said I feel like the hood/body serve that function?

I probably will just buy a sheet of 3/16 polycarbonate and put in a windshield.  I'm supposed to put stickers on it anyway.  

classicJackets (FS) said:

Nocones, I think you have to at least have a wind Deflector of that minimum 1/8" thickness to be NHRA legal for drags. I saw from 2015 the size minimum was 5"x12", I need to verify that's still true for my build as well.

Edit:

On open bodied cars, or any other class car without a windshield, a metal or other fireproof deflector must be installed.

 

I thought polycarb could be used for this, but it almost reads like it should be sheet metal?

is polycarb fireproof?

Looks like easiest way to do this is to put in a Lexan Windshield.   I've got a couple of quote requests out to local places otherwise Home Depot has .170 "Lexan" brand product for what will be ~$45 for the windshield.  

From Section 21

7:8 WINDSHIELD, WINDOWS
Windshields and/or windows on all cars, when called for 
under Class Requirements, must be of safety glass, Plexiglas, 
Lexan, or other shatterproof material, minimum 1/8-inch thick.

I bought lexan for our '91 GTI last year...in the height of the need for covid plexi dividers between desks and stuff. It was not budget friendly.

I think I paid $79 for a big sheet of 3/16 poly from jegs last year. I don't remember exact measurements, but I'm thinking you could do most of the windows on that thing with one sheet. 

Just to confirm there will be no issues other then personal shame and a distinct lack of magazine coverage if your challenge car is completely unpainted right?  Like completely no paint not oh there is some paint but it's in bad shape.. like bare nothingness..  Asking for a friend...

I am basically right at the precipice of no return to paint the chassis.  I have installed the firewall but could remove it.  The floor pans are next and they really can't be removed quickly.   Then a wave of assembly happens.  I don't think I have the time available to  paint the chassis now, as that's like 4+ hours of work.  

nocones said:

This will possibly be the only painted part on the car at the challenge...

 

For real, you already have paint! Great color choice BTW.

I can confirm 4+ hours minimum to paint your chassis. Plus additional hours of cleaning that paint back off to weld on the tabs you forgot, and the ones you don't know you want yet

In reply to gumby :

Oh yes I know how much work it is which is why I can't do it before the challenge and have the car running.  I also completely agree with your assessment that having the car running and driving before paint is better for a car like this. I just want to make sure that there isn't some section of the NHRA rulebook I am missing that makes an unpainted car literally "illegal".  

Yeah, you'll spend 4 hours just going over every nook and cranny with a cup brush on the surface rust before even a single wipe down. It would probably take me a whole weekend that paint that frame, between prep primer and paint. 

When the Nazis were sweeping across Russia during WWII, the Russians moved their factories farther east and began rolling T-34s into the field without paint.  Rust makes a pretty good camouflage.  I'd say do what you've got to do to make sure it's a runner.

Car's looking great!.....and the push you are currently on is a big part of why I no longer race, I'm all stressed just watching.

No real idea about NHRA but years ago I raced an as welded motorcycle on opening day, it was legal like that in amateur classes but not in pro classes where it's all about the show down to what stickers and where they had to be displayed and no visible road rash on anything meaning lots of spares just in case....but in amateur it was run what you brung so hopefully NHRA is the same  :)

Over the years I've never found a tech guy who did want to help me pass tech, you need to do X, but if you can give me Y today you can race kind of stuff...when you bring something that was clearly a massive effort that is well done, they know you weren't trying to break the rules and will generally do what they can to help....I had a tech guy literally point the sound meter the opposite direction when the needle was in a place it didn't belong at a noise controlled track...they are all racers.

In reply to nocones :

Paint isn't required. You may want to ping Tom though & figure out how you're going to fit the sponsor decals on it. 

No paint is fine!!!

How about wiping it down quick with some boiled linseed oil?

I wanted to suggest gun blueing compound as an alternative to paint, but you'd probably blow the entire budget buying those tiny 3 oz bottles.

In vehicle progress the firewall is now constructed.  

The lower part needed final trimming and then could be secured to the chassis.  The slots for the radiator where placed and I nervously pushed the radiator into place to find out if 3 hours of work on the lower firewal would need to be redone.     It sparked joy and worked.  

I then built the upper firewall section.  I debated putting a lid over the engine instead of a full height wall but eventually the car will have a roof and windshield so there was no point in not just making a wall.  

This panel has a return flange on the bottom that will rivet to the return flange on the top of the lower firewall.  It also is notched around the roll bar and top of the body.  The flanges In the window openings will set against the body when the window blockoff sheets are fabricated.  The body can still be removed but there are no gaps larger then 1/4".  

Overall I'm pleased with this and it's nice to have something "done".  The firewall isn't coming back out before the challenge.   I still need to add a few anchor points in the corners but it's good for right now.