I thought i would be really smart and put a rubber glove with tape around the end of the trans. The firewall showed me that im really stupid.
I thought i would be really smart and put a rubber glove with tape around the end of the trans. The firewall showed me that im really stupid.
Old motors sold. Got the new crank 90% of the way in. Just needs a torque wrench and finalize the rear main seal. Then its piston time.
So got the crank secured and torqued to spec. Still rotating really nice with no binding.
Went to install the cap and rear main seal and had issues. The assembly instructions call for strongest silicon known to man (actually motorcraft silicon used in power stroke applications ta-31). You smear that on the mating surfaces then put the cap on. Once the cap is in you drive these nails into the seal to tighten everything up. Mine bound up on installation and went below the mating surface. I ripped it all apart and have a new one coming tomorrow.
This is probably the scariest part of the project for me because I do not want a leaky rear main. Fe’s are notorious for having this leak and I do not want problems.
frustrating that a 9 dollar seal stopped me dead tonight but tomorrow is another day.
You've probably already been looking at this stuff but there are online guides for installation of the rear seal on an FE block, here's one: http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=758.0 I see there are also Youtube videos on the topic.
Gaskets and seals are always the tricky part about dealing with older engines...I fool around with old Pontiacs and have had similar problems. It's too bad they didn't have the seal materials available today back then.
This is a interesting thought. my book doesn't have this step.
Im using Barry over at survivals FE build book. Guy is a dark magic wizard when it comes to FE's. I will write up a more detailed post today of what i did. I plan on dynoing the motor to check this and tune the motor.
I cant explain enough how well the dedicated piston ring compressor worked. i will never go back to the old way. We were able to get all 8 pistons in and torqued within a hour.
Got all the front suspension off in preparation for the disk brake and suspension swap.
What’s everyone’s favorite under car degreaser? This things a mess.
Now it’s time to relax after a hard fought battle
i start with a sheet of cardboard under the area to be cleaned, and a narrow putty knife. After scraping off the big stuff, I spray everything with Gunk Foaming Engine Degreaser, and let it sit for an hour or so, then spray it again and start scrubbing with nylon stiff-bristled brushes. Gunk is stinky stuff, so keep the garage door open.
regarding your choice of beverage, all i can say is Dang you've got a pretty sweet car for a sixteen year old. ;-)
I admit to using gasoline many times in the past for cleaning that kind of grease and grime, but it's not particularly safe. Mineral spirits or kerosene are probably better choices. For non-petrochemical cleaners Purple Power works pretty well, you can usually find it at the hardware store.
In reply to AngryCorvair :
I will definitely try the gunk foaming degreaser. They make it in gell apparently.
Nothing beats a nice cold busch light after a night of wrenching
Upper control arms are in. Lowers to get in soon after. Still need to do some degreasing but moving forward.
Sway bar is in. Thing could hold a semi through a dirt track corner.
Lower control arm is in as well. Mosquitoes came out with a vengeance so until tomorrow. Springs and spindles soon.
Suspension is all in. What’s killing me now is small stuff on the motor. Seems like I get one thing bolted on a week. Really want to make progress on the motor in the next two weeks. Brakes should show up Monday or Tuesday next week.
Box showed up for the brakes.
Overall very impressed with the initial quality. Six pistons seems a lot overkill but I will reserve judgment until it’s driving.
Spent today cleaning up some lose ends.
replaced the strut rod bolts with the ones from Hotchkiss.
Installed the shocks on the front.
I got the hub installed on the passenger side. Test fit everything and it looks like it is ready for final tighten down. Wilwood recommends Loctite on everything. I think I’m going to take a pass on that. Anyone see any reason to have to? I’m worried about servicing in a emergency if I don’t have heat.
Good news is now that I know my head from my ass on this kit, the other side should go quick.
Well another milestone down. Front end is buttoned up and we have a roller. All the clearances are good and no grinding or hitting anywhere.
Rear end needs to come out for a rebuild/regear. Motor work needs to pick up. There are some longer lead time parts that need made coming up soon. This thing will be drive ready by April, come Hell or high water.
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