Please note: If at any point you see something I don't or have suggestions, please throw them up here. It's been a while since I had to "refresh" an engine and never a flattie.
Thank you.
You may know, I bought a 1940 LaSalles with a stuck engine. I've been pouring all kinds of liquid VooDoo down there for months with no luck. Finally the heads came off and I see gaps in each gasket with carbon build up between the first and second cylinder of each bank. The exhaust ports are full of coolant.
I checked the heads on the bench and using a straight edge and shim stock saw no appreciable curve ot gaps; it will be reground anyway.
I tried to separate the engine from the transmission with no luck, so I pilled the whole thing out in one fell swoop, PITA. Once on the floor I got them apart but already know some external guidance will be required at reassembly. =~ (
Block is on a stand and stuff is coming off! Pistons, crank and cam are still in there. The cylinders look like mirrors, I thought some cross hatch was nice to have. There are stains and Stage I rust on the second cylinder back on each bank, it appears water, not coolant got in there.
As I removed the first crank bearing cap, the crank and bearing is gorgeous! I called Auto-Zone 1/2 mile away to see if they had Plasti-gage, kid had to ask three other people to find out what it was. I'm off th NAPA.
Someone's been in here before. The connecting rod and caps are already number stamped and the internal plumbing for oil supply is identified. Aside from being stuck (they put it away dry) the inside is beautiful. 'Cept for all the mouse turds.....
Look at the size of the counter weights! No wonder they were so smooth.
I know nothing of these engines so I'm here to learn.
You might try pointing a heater at the block to see if you can get it to warm up and expand. Might help loosen things up.
Are those giant bolt on counter weights? Certainly does not look to be a system designed for high RPMs
This engine is sooo neat! Love the non-crossflow flat head. Solves the exhaust-through-head issue of the Ford while creating new fun packaging issues. Can't wait to see what's inside.
In reply to GhiaMonster :
But they're so smooooooth...
Yeah but it makes for vapor lock, heat and all and the carb sits right between the toobies.
THIS is a brandy new piston! I put plasti-gage under the first two, oh my! Brandy new is .0015 Acceptable wear use is .002 - .005 Mine are .0015 =~ 0
The skirt has no carbon, browning or scratching to talk about. The rings look poifect. I haven't pulled the ones that were stuck, lets see.
Notice the wonky angle of the rod & cap cut? Chevies are perpendicular to the stroke, these are almost parallel. Makes it tough getting off.
Oh yeah, the counter balance are 4 X 2 X 6 inches. I bet it coasts like a teflon bicycle seat.
6.799 lbs.
In reply to 914Driver :
Once upon a time, my grandpa had a '39 LaSalle. He always praised how well-mannered it was; usually in the same breath he was grousing about modern engines being worse.
"Gee our old LaSalle ran great ...... "
GhiaMonster said:
Are those giant bolt on counter weights? Certainly does not look to be a system designed for high RPMs
It does seem sketchy on intital thought, but those are probably 7/16 or even 1/2" fasteners. The piston and rod hang off of little weenie 5/16 or 3/8" bolts and those work fine at much higher speeds than a flathead will ever see.
Any chance you got this car in North Carolina?
Weird to see an engine from that era with more counterweights than a modern engine instead of less.
Are the rod bearings replaceable shells or poured babbit?
In reply to TurnerX19 :
Those are replaceable. There's a reason Cadillac was the standard of the world.
914Driver said:
Notice the wonky angle of the rod & cap cut? Chevies are perpendicular to the stroke, these are almost parallel. Makes it tough getting off.
IIRC (and that's not a safe bet) the angle is actually supposed to make it easier to remove, or at least for doing an in-frame rebuild. Parts do look great, hopefully this is a straightforward refresh and drive.
In reply to 914Driver :
You bought the car from my son-in-law, his dad rebuilt the car in the 90's IIRC.
Same story I heard;, your SIL is on here. He originally posted it on Bring a Trailer, shoulda heard the purists on LaSalle Cadillac forum!!
What the hell color is that?
Sell a non-running car? WTH?
Certainly not GRMers.
No family knew the exact color, but it's Stately in my mind. Once sorted and well, the interior will be redone. Dead stock, maybe add belts. Trust me, your SIL's Grandpa will rest well, not spinning like a top. =~ )
Dan
BTW: A friend refuses to sell me his Volvo Duette, afraid I will bastardize it like other stuff I've done. No, no, no, I I know there are cars that don't deserve that and this is one of them. LOVE the rear vent windows!
I know my grandson is on here, didn't know his dad was too.........and yes, BaT did not seem to be the right place to list it.....I was surprised at the poor reception it got there.
Anyway, I'm not worried about what will happen with it, it's a car and now it's yours to do with as you see fit.
Looking forward to hearing it run again!!
Me too! Maybe you can help. The copper head gasket failed between the first and second cylinders on each side. My theory is that as one piston compressed and its next door neighbor was going down, air was sucked into the one going down via the gap, creating low pressure enough to suck oil out of the crank case. The valves verify this by being choked with oily carbon.
What do you think?
Noddaz
PowerDork
9/5/23 8:16 a.m.
Are the heads warped? Is the block warped? It is curious that both head gaskets failed in the same place. Maybe mic the head gaskets in a few places to find the compressed thickness?
And that is a nasty piston you have there.
Oh my. I just looked up the compression ratio. 6.25:1
I used a not very good straight edge and shim stock to check the head warp, going to have it shaved anyway. Block is too dirty right now to check.
