I don't think you'll be able to get sufficient clearance by bashing the tube. You're probably going to need at least an inch, with some foil tape on the box to shield it. You're gonna need to rework the tube or run the manifolds.
I don't think you'll be able to get sufficient clearance by bashing the tube. You're probably going to need at least an inch, with some foil tape on the box to shield it. You're gonna need to rework the tube or run the manifolds.
Sometimes its easier to put the headers in first, THEN the motor.
How much would you have to smash the headers to make them fit? Freiberger smashed the hell out of headers in this episode of hot rod garage and dyno tested them. Made essentially zero difference. Smash away to fit.
thing was, he smashed up a huge set of 1 7/8" primary's right? and it was not a huge motor.
Mad_Ratel wrote: thing was, he smashed up a huge set of 1 7/8" primary's right? and it was not a huge motor.
My bad. Not be well versed in Chubby motors I thought 400 cubic inches making 560hp and 530lb/ft was pretty huge, or at least it sounded huge to my pansy Euro derived ass!
In reply to Mad_Ratel:
It wasn't exactly a mild motor (all new parts 560hp 400 SBC), but the armchair engine builder in me says they still had too much exhaust on it from the start. People tend to overestimate how much exhaust they really need, somewhere on speedtalk.com there's a thread where a guy built what amounted to a pair of fancy log manifolds with fairly short primary tubes (something like 8") and put them on a 800hp SB2 nascar motor, across the graph they were within something like 12hp of the usual highly developed long tubes.
Have you ever seen a set of factory Mustang headers? they come pre-beat-the-E36 M3-out-of from the factory.
Day-84(1.5-hours):
I finally got the last bellhousing bolt in. Apparently the trans dipstick bracket doesn't bolt to the bellhousing, because its hole is too small for the bolt, which is why I'd been having so much trouble. I twisted the tube so I had a clear view of it & the tab/hole wasn't deformed, but the bolt definitely didn't fit.
I also started beating the header into submission.
I bet that first swing of the hammer was a tough one to take 
In reply to ClemSparks:
Nah, I see rusty-ass headers around here for $100-$150 a pair, I figure I could still sell these for more than I paid. 
I like it!
I always liked the "factory look". That header should slip in there like a Honeymoon appendage.
Well did it fit,now take it out and wrap with heat deflecter of some kind,Lol he he he.
Adrian_Thompson wrote:Mad_Ratel wrote: thing was, he smashed up a huge set of 1 7/8" primary's right? and it was not a huge motor.My bad. Not be well versed in Chubby motors I thought 400 cubic inches making 560hp and 530lb/ft was pretty huge, or at least it sounded huge to my pansy Euro derived ass!
My bad, I remember it being a stock 350 for some reason.
In reply to GTXVette:
Not yet, I still have a ways to go. I'm pretty bad with a hammer...it usually takes me 5-tries per nail. Seriously. It's one of those skills I've just never really developed, so I'm taking my time with this. It's also a bit like bowling in that I don't have the body mass, strength, or wrists to support swinging much weight.
In reply to petegossett: I could give a couple suggestions for your wrists but would likely get Banned.
GTXVette wrote: In reply to petegossett: I could give a couple suggestions for your wrists but would likely get Banned.
UNless the weakness is RSI from your suggestion
Seriously...this is my dominant hand.
My right wrist is an 1/8" smaller. I don't wear watches, but I'd either be wearing a kid's or women's watch if I did. When we go bowling I head straight for the kid's selection - anything over 6 or 7lbs and I'll be done before the first game.
I have to belive you are the only person I know that would Make that Pic.
Nice manicure. Seriously, try screwing the header flange to a 2x4, 2x6 whatever, to secure it (deck screws/washers). this will hopefully stop it from bouncing, and free up your other hand. Use the biggest ball peen you are comfortable with and let the weight and swing do its thing.
In reply to petegossett:
WOW!!!! THAT'S SOME GIRTH!!!
Oh....that's your wrist and not....never mind.
petegossett wrote: In reply to GTXVette: Not yet, I still have a ways to go. I'm pretty bad with a hammer...it usually takes me 5-tries per nail. Seriously. It's one of those skills I've just never really developed, so I'm taking my time with this. It's also a bit like bowling in that I don't have the body mass, strength, or wrists to support swinging much weight.
One of the reasons I built the Grosh with just a hammer was to finally develop the coordination to pound a nail. It worked.
Damn Jim!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that's funny right there.
I couldn't hammer a nail very well until I stumbled across a guide about it written for blind people. The trick is to not put so much effort into it, you want to let gravity drop the hammer onto the nail. If you need to wail on something to get results you probably need to get a bigger hammer.
Day-85(3-hours):
I took the day off work to get caught up on some chores & the Vette after spending last week with the kids on spring break.
After a solid hour hammering away I finally got the header pounded into submission.
Interestingly, I found a 2-handed technique like a pick axe gave me the leverage needed while not overtaxing my wrists or arms.
However I decided I'm not going to use the headers - for now anyway. I knew they weren't a direct fit for the stock manifolds, but I thought there'd be enough slack in the exhaust to flex/bend the y-pipe, but after clearancing the header so I could slide it in further I realized that wouldn't work. Here's the difference side-by-side.
It would be pretty easy to notch the y-pipe to move them inward, and shorten each side, but I really need to remove it to do that...and the converter bolts don't look like they'll budge. Also the y-pipe flattens to an oval to match the converter inlet, so replacing it with a straight tube(should I bust off all the bolts) won't work either.
Rather than go down that rabbit hole right now, I'll use the stock manifolds to get it running, then worry about the headers later.
...except two studs on the passenger's manifold snapped upon removal & the other 4 need replaced. I got the first two on the passenger's manifold out, but no luck on the last busted one - heat, pipe wrench, turning it both directions, drilling it out - nada. So at this point I'll have to drill it all the way out & retap it.
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