Poor life choices - C4 content

In reply to petegossett: in the second pic you can see the inside curve of the line on the right, dude its all but pinched closed, it has to be repaired/replaced. sorry. a fresh rubber should seal the T-Stat.

Starting in about '87, I think, they changed the angle on the 4 (2 on each side) middle intake bolts. Yours should, all 12 of them, go in at the same angle...and it looks/sounds like they do. I believe this change happened at the same time as the switch from Perimeter to Center bolt valve covers (not completely sure on that...but it's what I think I know).

Funny, the Edelbrock intake I picked up in that package I mentioned turned out to be one for '87-up-until-Vortech heads. I didn't figure that out until I had it mostly bolted down on an old-style engine.

I used this Holley 20-95 on a similar setup:

It worked well but I learned the hard way that the older carburetors aren't completely compatible with it. The new carburetors have a locating hole to acommodate this bracket.

If you're interested, I can take some photos of mine installed to show what I mean.

On the steering wheel - and this isn't much help I know - your symptoms probably have something to do with the factory telescope function. I can poke around and try to find something for you about how to index it when putting the wheel back on.

For the steering, did you do anything with the key switch? Check that out, may be something with the steering lock. My son's 87 Monte had a similar problem. Make sure you set up the TV cable right, or you will have shift problems followed by trans concerns. Not quite sure what the distance would be, but stretch the cable out like WOT, and figure your placement on the carb. Check out Clem's pics to be sure. I always liked to put a little smear of silicone on H2O parts, makes me feel better.

Oh, and one other thing I need to do - remove the gear from the original TPI distributor and modify it so I can use it to spin up the oil pump.

In reply to ClemSparks:

That's similar to mine, but the one I have is adjustable to compensate for cable length.

In reply to conesare2seconds & Dirtydog:

Interesting to note about the telescoping bit. I'd followed both the manual & instructions is found online, but neither mentioned it - just that the shaft will slide down in the column if you don't secure it.

I had to replace the lock cylinder. Afterwards it seemed fine, but I'd turned the wheel full-left before locking it in place, and now it's stuck.

Dusterbd13 wrote: Also, id look for a drop base air cleaner thats larger diameter. I remember reading somewhere that the smaller filters really dont flow much of anything. A 14x3 is pretty much minimum for 300hp if I remember right.

Interesting. I think I remember reading an article where it didn't make much difference. I thought it was hotrod or CarCraft that did a comparison a while back (years ago). Could be poor remembery, however.

I'm pretty sure this isn't the article I'm remembering...but it found similar results: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/air-cleaner-comparison/

In reply to ClemSparks:

Wow, that seems to defy physics...

In a way the Biggie here is not to Cover(Choke) the carb Opening, to me the Idea of a drop base is to Get a Wider Filter on Not so much a Larger one (mine are both). the weight of Air is what fills the engine More than Suction From it's running. Tune the car for The Coast then take it to Denver Colorado, It will need a new tune.and won't make as much Power.

In reply to GTXVette:

Good thing the challenge is essentially at sea level in Gainesville

petegossett wrote: In reply to ClemSparks: Wow, that seems to defy physics...

They used nothing but K&N filters. Don't forget that K&N filters are basically rock catchers, so they flow better than a paper element.

I have less room between the carb and hood than you do...

I truly don't want to cut a "RARE" factory fiberglass hood but I am not building a show car am I ;)

I'm getting far too excited to see these old malaise mutts all together.

Pete, you are doing a stellar job!

In reply to QuasiMofo:

The second you cut a hole in that fiberglass Camaro Hood collectors will be willing to pay $3,000 for them

At least that's the way life treats me.

Pete. Remember the website I sent you? There is whole load of info on the TV cable set up, just posted. Might be worth checking out. And yes, you are doing far more than most people would dream of doing. Keep it up.

In reply to Dirtydog:

Thanks! I just found this link that seems to detail the needed geometry and setup proceedures for the TV cable too, so I'll check out the ones in your link and make sure there's nothing contradictory.

Edit: Ok, checked out your link and found one other detail that helped tie it all together - the distance from the throttle pivot to the TV cable end needs to be 1-3/32". There were also pics showing the Holley 700r4 bracket, so now I see what I need to fab up to make it work...or possibly just order one for now, then fab one by the Challenge.

In reply to QuasiMofo:

Thanks John, I'm looking forward to this too!

In reply to BrokenYugo:

I still haven't found the article I thought I remembered...but here is one that supports Dusterbd's point above:

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/air-cleaner-assembly/ The small diameter paper filter appears to have been a real impediment.

Day-92(1-hour):

Two small updates from tonight. 1.) I fixed the steering wheel...and by "fixed" I mean I'm a dumbass. You know the telescoping wheel, there's a spring that pushes the wheel toward you when you unlock it. Of course it sprung out the first time I pulled the wheel. Not knowing its orientation, I put it on completely berkeleying backwards - give me a 50/50 chance and I'll give you 99.999% I'll get it wrong! Anyway the spring had a tab that was supposed to engage the steering wheel, but instead was protruding into the turn signal cam. Problem resolved.

2.) Based on advice from GTXVette, I took the original TPI distributor, removed the cam gear and mount for rotor, and now I can use it to prime the oiling system before installing the HEI distributor. Of course that will have to wait until the car is on the ground and ready to be rolled outside.

I've seen priming done using a cordless drill like this. I think my presence here is wearing off, reasons like the steering wheel got me the nickname Jimmy 2 Times. Glad you are sorting it out. I digress a moment. I see something really cool on this website. How everyone IS willing to help and support....I just read of a member stuck up in Utah. All Hands On Deck.. Really cool. Glad you guys are here, and welcome people like me.

Day-93(1.5-hours):

Those of you who've been through this before will giggle a bit... Apparently typically carbs are mounted using studs that have 2-different thread pitches...mine don't, they're just all-thread. It took a while to figure that out and find the correct nuts, but it's all mounted now. Of course not before having one of the holes strip out, but a bit of alumi-repair epoxy took care of that.

I also got the throttle cable bracket attached and set for the throttle cable length. I still need a bracket to move the TV cable pivot, then I can set it.

Lastly, I went ahead and installed the valve cover gaskets & bolted them down. Yes, I'll be pulling them back off to check the oil priming, and again for valve adjustment, but at least there shouldn't be any surprises then.

I gotta catch up.

I've got a boat anchor sitting where the bigger cubic inch boat anchor needs to be!

Captin with no anchor the ship she float away. Must have bigger anchor.

Day-94(2-hours):

I went ahead and installed the spark plugs, then rebuilt the front calipers and got the brakes back together.

Tomorrow I need to bench-bleed the master cylinder, then I can install it and bleed the brakes.