Pete if its the Brown wire on the Module Go and get another it needs to be able to move and they get brittle and break. set the cap with the connectors towards the driver fender and the Vacuum can is just to the right of the carb looking forward from the seat of the car. no.1 should be approx. looking at No.1 cyl. but you are right any pole can be 1. Google setting GM HEI Distrubter super chevy has some good pics.
UPDATE:
I verified static timing is correct, and the rotor is pointing toward the terminal for #1. So I tried stating it again, and both times it sputters, starts to run, but backfired within a second or two.
Does that offer any more clues?
Oh, and... Day-98(6-hours)
Edit: Here are pics. I'm 99.99% sure I have TDC correct. This is #1 at TDC.
Here's the position of the rotor, which corresponds to the #1 wire.
And here's a close-up of the terminal I repaired earlier. The wire was hanging out the black piece on the right.
In reply to NOHOME:
Ah, ok. Manually set the crank to 10-degrees BTDC, then adjust the cap to the rotor position. Makes perfect sense & I'll try that tomorrow!
Did you static time it by putting the crank at 10 BTDC and setting the distributor to line up the reluctor wheel points with the pickup points? That should get it close enough to start and run the cam break in cycle.
From 25 years of working on SBC engines, that looks like a lot of threads exposed above the rocker nuts. I haven't read every page of this thread, but have you maybe gotten the rockers adjusted way too tight ?
In reply to Cousin_Eddie:
Good question. From what I understand I should be able to twist the pushrods, and the rockers should have a slight bit of side-to-side play, but they shouldn't be loose - correct?
The cam and the ignition are in the right spot, but are the cam and the pistons? I can't remember if that was verified. It still sounds like a timing issue.
Id bet, that with the new lifters, the rockers are misadjusted. Back them off a couple of turns and see what happens.
Also, have you verified that you are not 180 out of time? Ive done that to myself more times than i care to admit.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
I checked a 3rd time, and definitely not 180-out. My understanding of hydraulic lifters is they don't force the valves open further if they're a bit too tight - is that wrong? I've checked them all twice, and they seem correct from what I've read, but I have no practical experience to reference.
In reply to mazdeuce:
It's pretty difficult to screw up cam timing on an SBC, but even if it's off a tooth it would only cause a shift in the power band.
Is this a new or used distributor? Check to see if the cam gear is worn (used version) and see if the coil is any good. A worn gear can knock your timing out +/- 10 degrees or so. A bad coil is just bad. Check the cap, just had a bad replacement distributor in my son's 97 Suburban Vortec, (different distributor setup, same principal) Truck would not hold timing, or run good.
Also, check your grounds.
In the pic of the valve springs the second one looks to be down from it's mate and at TDC they should be even And they do look a bit tight. Loosen them till sloppy then spin until Oil squirts out the rocker tips then start over, Nice job on the terminal repair Now replace it.( module)
In reply to GTXVette:
Dumb question - since this distributor isn't original to the car, what do I ask for when I go to the parts store?
I'll loosen the valves a 1/4-turn tonight and take a video. I think that's probably the best way to get input on whether I have them set correctly or not.
77 vette ignition module should be just fine.
I would also lean towards rocker arm adjustment, but those ignition modules are pretty common failure items. Like Dusterbd13, I also ordered Corvette modules.
Also, even if the distributor is in place, initial starting procedure generally involves twisting it wildly/randomly quite a bit while cranking to find it's home.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
I just checked, but it looks like the module is only the center piece. The broken terminal is in the part the module plugs into on the right/clockwise end.
Any chance the firing order is off, couple plug wires mixed up??
When you say back fire, does it fire up thru the carb? That can happen due to lack of fuel, or some sort of timing issue.
If it is firing then there is spark and compression.
Maybe the timing is just off a little and needs adjustment, a remote start button would allow moving the distributor a little while starting.
Test For Ground Then. Really on the rockers Compleatly loosen till you think the pushrods are going to Fall out then spin a lot. then put a sheet or something under the engine then put the Battery Charger back on then spin Sum mo. really the go all back through the tightining process again till oil is Squirtn everywhere yea its a mess but will wash off. Peace and all that stuff
Pete Gossett wrote: In reply to Dusterbd13: I just checked, but it looks like the module is only the center piece. The broken terminal is in the part the module plugs into on the right/clockwise end.
Please get a photo of what you are saying. We will wait.
Day-99(2.5-hours):
After setting the engine at 10-degrees BTDC, confirming the cap & rotor were both pointed toward the #1 terminal, pulling all the plugs to clean them, and double-checking all the wires, this happened:
https://www.youtube.com/embed/aXCvvv9o1zE
Although it was smoking quite a bit, but it smelled more like buring off paint & chemicals.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/o9G8j6PPySs
But just to be safe I checked above and below for any leaks...
...that's when I found this:
I caught it after about 2-quarts had leaked out, and there were no additional/bad noises by that point. I got it back up on stands and crawled underneath to check it out. I think it's coming from the oil cooler housing, but no idea why it's leaking so much. I may just remove the cooler, at least temporarily, since it's apparently more for getting the oil up to operating temp quickly vs. cooling the oil during spirited driving.
SCOREBOARD!!!!!!!!!!!....big sigh eh??
berkeleying awesome!!!!!
Im hoping our challenge car is only a week behind you.
In reply to Pete Gossett:
Don't worry Pete. It's just marking it's territory like any proper Vette should. You'll have it doing burnouts in no time.
In reply to Stampie:
As long as I didn't wipe the cam or trash any bearings from too many no-starts or too little oil.
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