Poor life choices - C4 content

In reply to Ovid_and_Flem:

Most definitely!

In reply to QuasiMofo:

I'm not sure yet on the OE wheels, but as Jim alluded to, I'm not sure the early C4 offset would work on your crammit.

In reply to Pete Gossett:

Wow....air in those 1992 tires was 25 y.o.

In reply to Ovid_and_Flem:

Surprisingly they still held air!

I pushed the Vette out onto the driveway after lunch, but I'd forgotten to reconnect the trickle charger last night, so it only had enough voltage to spin it about 1/2 a revolution. No problem, my step-son was still home so I just wheeled his car over to jump start it.

It fired up right away, but the knocking sound was back, along with the jumping of the serpentine tensioner. I shut it off, released belt tension, checked all pulleys, and made sure the bypass pulley was tight and fully forward in the bracket. Upon restart it developed a low hum/groan, which got louder and continued after I shut it back off...which is when I realized the horn was stuck on.

I disconnected the horn, reconnected the jumper cables and tried again...but got no crank, click, or anything other than lights. I tried a couple other times, but no difference; so I packed everything up, rolled it back into the garage, and put it on trickle charge. With the side-post battery and minimal access to the terminals I'm thinking/hoping it was just a contact issue with the jumper cables. Although wiggling/reattaching them made no difference.

I don't think I have access to connect my remote start switch from the top, but I'll give that a try later so hopefully I can troubleshoot any potential issues with the ignition switch. I suppose the starter could have died, but if I can get a hammer on it I'll give that a try later too.

Pete, check with voltmeter the battery, if it is low you need to charge it. A trickle charger, like a Battery Tender won't do it. Basically they maintain a battery. Hard charge the battery up, check the terminal connections, and grounds.

In reply to Dirtydog:

I don't think it's that dead. It's a new battery, though I chose one on the small side for the car, given the warm climate here. I'm thinking that may have been a mistake with a fresh engine. I definitely have a current drain somewhere, but it's nothing visibly obvious. One more problem to track down once it's reasonably mechanically reliable.

Unfortunately my real batter charger is still in IL, though it's on my list for the next trip.

Take of the batter access panel to get room for cables......5 10mm bolts. One at top near door, three on forward part of access panel in fender liner and that sneaky bottom rear your have use a spanner on.

Day-102(5-hours):

After failing to get the car running long enough to break in the cam yet again, I decided to take care of a couple small things that needed done. So I reinstalled the wiper motor, cleaning & lubing while I was at it. Then I pulled the passenger's door apart and cleaned/lubed the window mechanism.

I'll try jump starting it again tomorrow, but I'll use the van since it'll be home. If that doesn't work I'll pull the battery(which is a PITA), then see if I can exchange it under warranty & possibly upgrade to a larger one while I'm at it.

Battery Cover. There's one bolt (all 10mm) bolt on top, some torx in the wheel well, and one bolt on the bottom. Try not to remove the bottom bolt, it is PIA to get back in. This removes the cover. Try to wiggle the bottom out. If not remove cover and slot the bottom so later you can slide it in and out. Also a hint to change tail light bulbs. If you have skinny arms remove everything around the plate area. Remove the inside light (2 bolts forgot size) now you have access to both lights. Same for other side. Replace all four with long life bulbs. I had to have my daughter help on this. This not a job you want to do often.

One other thing. When not using the car for extended times or working with the doors open, disconnect the positive in case you have a draw or working inside for a while.

Battery disconnect switch is my suggestion after getting the new one. Even if a temporary one while performing the initial build. Too many variables (like the horn)

The battery has either been disconnected or on the trickle charger, with the exception of the night before last, which is another reason I think it's more than just discharged.

I'd considered a disconnect switch, but I don't want to mount an external one, and there's no berkeleying way SWMBO would be able to lift the hood if she ever needed to drive it. I think I'll find a different trickle charger with a quick disconnect that I can leave dangling out of the wheel well.

Could be the starter itself is as in as good a shape as the engine was.....

That^ GM starters are a consumable.

Day-103(3-hours):

I rolled the Vette out and used the van to jump-start it. It fired up no problem, so I think the Accent just didn't have the current to crank it over. It makes sense 5.7L > 1.6L...

It seemed to run fine: good oil pressure, I was able to adjust the vacuum a bit with the idle mixture screws, I checked/set the advance - although the advance seem to drift a bit. Is there a slight miss that causes this?

There was a slight oil spot that appears to be from the rear-main area, but it didn't seem to continue. No other leaks/fire/smoke...

https://www.youtube.com/embed/ys726i1xOtY

...but since I don't have a temp gauge connected or cooling fan, I was using my IR thermometer to check the upper radiator hose temp. I shut the car off when it hit about 190-degrees, but it started steaming from the radiator cap and boiling over. A couple minutes later I heard a pop, and I think(hope) the lower hose blew - although looking underneath when I tried to top it off later, it appeared to be leaking straight out the bottom of the radiator. I'll get underneath it later to investigate.

One good thing - after it cooled off I was able to restart it(without a jump) and back it into the garage under its own power. Small victories...

Good work! I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread.

Now that you've had it running for a bit, time to go back in and adjust the valves. Sounds like a few of the rockers are clattering a little too much.

Also, there is a fair bit of friction in a fresh motor. Once it's been run in, it's a bit looser.

As far as advance wavering, have you done anything with the HEI? They tend to corrode/wear/do-strange-things over time, and may need a clean up and/or new parts.

Consider a re-curve kit, even if that dizzy is brand new. Kits are dirt cheap, and you will likely want a LIGHT spring and MEDIUM spring - don't use the weights in the kit.

In reply to AngryCorvair:

I was hoping to get it running long enough to adjust them hot, but I might as well pull the covers now & snug up the loose ones.

In reply to SkinnyG:

I've not touched the HEI other than repairing the terminal inside, but there's no sign it was ever used or installed previously. I'll be honest, these old-school tuning methods seem like witchcraft & sourcery - though I've never tuned EFI either, I like the fact you're dealing with absolute data values and can verify the results of changes with absolute certainty.

I've actually considered picking up an AEM wideband or equivalent to use in place of the stock O2 sensor, so I can at least monitor AFR.

Awesome Pete!

WOOHOO! You've accomplished more in 100 days than President Trump!!!

Good for you. Glad to hear it's under its own power. You just put more mileage on it than it had the last number of years. Semper Avanti!!!!!

Regarding advance, it might help to grease the weights and asst twisty bits under the rotor

I confirmed my coolant leak is on the bottom of the passenger's side end tank. Unfortunately in removing the radiator, the lower transmission cooler line was seized in the compression fitting, so I'll have to either re-flare a new end on(if there's enough line) or cut it back further and use a coupler to extend the line. I need to see if there are any local old-school radiator shops left who can clean & repair it, otherwise I'll replace it with a new one.

I did get the cooling fan switch installed in the manifold & wired up to the relay. I had to get an adaptor from Lowe's to go from the 1/4" switch to the 1/2" opening in the Weiand intake, but other than the fact the switch, heater line, and fuel lines/regulator are all somewhat crowded together, it was no problem.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/112202045683

In reply to Dusterbd13:

Rockauto has it for $8.17 cheaper than that. Is there any reason to try and get the OE on fixed? Seems like a new one is the safest/easiest bet, and if I do find a place to clean & repair it(I googled, but I don't think there is anyplace local) I wonder if I'd save much money anyway?