Poor life choices - C4 content

Last radiator I had fixed was almost 3 bills. But there were no other options.

Find the cheapest one you can and run it. You can get 3 core aluminum ones for 125....

Did you swap the injectors out? I keep getting that the stock injectors are crap and a guy at autocross was running an L98 C4 today with TPI, said the injectors are one of the big issues with getting it working.

In reply to Harvey:

Yes - I swapped them for a carb. Given what little of the history I know - the PO stopped driving it little by little before he died - I didn't want to deal with troubleshooting a 32-year old TPI system of unknown functionality.

In reply to Harvey:

The big draw back on TPI on L98 engines is the small diameter intake runners...essentiall they can't breathe above 4900 rpms. But they do produce a lot of torque at the low end

I still vote fuel injection! I know I have no vote.

In reply to Harvey:

That's the eventual goal, but it'll probably be attached to an LS2 or 3.

Day-104(2-hours):

Minor progress - I cleaned all the leaves/wasp nests/crud out of the lower radiator housing, straightened a few bent fins on the AC condenser, cleaned the upper radiator housing while it was out, and cleaned/tested the fan...sort of. I only have my trickle charger for a 12v DC power source, and it doesn't have enough current to spin the fan - but it did wiggle it a bit. The fan spins freely, so I expect it'll work fine when installed. I'll also test the new switch circuitry before starting it up again.

I ran to the parts store and picked up a splice for the transmission cooler line that snapped off. I'll hold off on patching it in until the radiator arrives in a few days though.

Tomorrow night I hope to either change the transmission fluid & filter and/or the differential fluid, then hopefully finish the other up Tuesday.

In reply to Pete Gossett: If you Open the rear housing you need the correct sealer

In reply to GTXVette:

I've read there's a plug with a tag on the passenger's side of the diff that I can pull & siphon out the fluid, though I've not looked yet. Would it take special sealant, or just the cover?

Normally you drain a diff with no drain plug by removing the cover, which will then need resealed. If you have an oil extractor you can usually suck it out through the fill hole instead. The plug will usually be a NPT pipe plug, which requires no sealant.

There should be a plug on the front left side. Try a cheap transfer pump to get the fluid out. I think GM recommends an additive to the gear lube. With my pool filter motor, I spray the shaft with WD-40. Helps spin things, put a little on your fan shaft in case of moisture build up.

Also there is a friction modifier that is required for the Corvette Diff.

It is available in OE and aftermarket

In reply to QuasiMofo:

I picked up a tube of TransX posi-trac additive.

Day-105(1:15):

I got the trans pan off without getting completely covered in ATF(it's only up to my elbow...though the garage floor wasn't so lucky), which I consider a major victory.

The differential is also siphoning out very slowly...I know this stuff is 80-90wt, but I've watched grease run faster downhill. My hunch is it's original.

The trans fluid otoh is very fresh, which concerns me a bit. We'll see if I have 2nd or 3rd gear once I get a chance to road-test it.

Clean ATF that doesn't smell like burning death is generally a good sign. The trick to draining the pan is to only remove like half the bolts, then back out the other half so one corner will tip down when you pry the pan off, and then fit the pan with a drain plug or replace it with a new pan with a drain.

ATF makes your hair amazingly soft and shiny.

In reply to BrokenYugo:

That's exactly what I did...then the fluid started weeping out the side/end with the bolts, rather than the one without.

In reply to mazdeuce:

Sadly it would be a waste on me then!

In reply to Pete Gossett:

Maybe he was referring to your arm hair.

Shiniest arm hair I've ever seen on a man. It's like he was made of glitter. Sight to behold.

Is it a TH350, or a 700R4?

Be sure to have properly adjusted that cable to the trans either way.

In reply to SkinnyG:

It's a 700r4, I followed Art Carr's adjustment procedures for setting up one from scratch.

Cool!

I tried my hand at rebuilding my first 4L60E last year. It was.... involved.

I took a 1/2-hour before work this morning to empty the trans pan, remove the filter, and start filling the diff.

There's definitely some residue/debris in the trans pan, does this look normal?

There was a bit(and some rust) on the filter too.

That magnets pretty clean, that's a great sign

The steels and clutches wear at the same time, like rotors and pads. Minimal steel waste in the trans means minimal wear.