Poor life choices - C4 content

In reply to QuasiMofo:

Thanks! I knew some wear is expected, I just don't have any experience to judge "normal" from "$$$".

It either looks recently serviced, recently rebuilt, or abso-berkeleying-lutely MINT.

In reply to Dusterbd13:

That's my thought from the fresh fluid...I'm just really hoping it wasn't a case of "Uh oh, the trans is slipping. Let's change the 60k fluid & filter and see of that fixes it." before getting parked for who knows how many years.

I should be receiving the last registration from the seller any day - I'm really curious to discover when it was last on the road.

were you able to run it long enough to 'bed ' the cam this past weekend?

In reply to 759NRNG:

I had it running about 10-minutes straight, probably 15-minutes or less total run time. Once it's on the ground again I'll try to keep it running for 20-30 minutes straight, or until another problem surfaces. Then do some short shakedown drives to see what else needs added to the list.

Day-106(2-hours):

I got the trans pan cleaned and ready to install.

And started an IV drip for the diff.

I'm not sure how well that will work, but I confirmed fluid flowed all the way down the tube.

punch a hole in the bottom of the diff oil container.

NOHOME wrote: punch a hole in the bottom of the diff oil container.

+1

In reply to NOHOME:

Awesome tip - thanks!

Note however the bottom is now the "top."

I had a half hour after dinner, so I went back out and tried installing the filter. First, it's a slightly different shape than the original - there's a sprung tab that held the end of the OE filter in place, but the new filter isn't quite long enough to reach it. I don't think that's a huge problem?

I couldn't get the filter pressed up all the way into place either, at least judging by the gap between it & the valve body vs where the retaining tab is. I'll rearrange my crap under the car tomorrow & try to get right under the filter where I can use both hands to twist & push.

I might have to revisit my IV stand too. Even after punching a vent hole in the bottle, it still doesn't seem to be flowing into the diff. I plugged the vent & squeezed a bit, but I'm not sure there's any flow, so I may try a hose with a slightly larger ID.

Those cheap little bottle pumps are awesome for filling diffs and transmissions. Just be aware that you can't get the last 15% out of the bottles, so you have to buy one extra quart.

Your tube isn't bottomed out on anything is it?

Shine a flashlight up into the filter tube (orifice?). I bet the old o-ring/grommet is still up in there. A small pick or screwdriver will snag it so you can fish it out. For whatever reason, the old rubber grommet usually sticks and stays behind when the filter is removed.

In reply to conesare2seconds:

That was it! Thanks for the tip...not sure I'd figured it out any time soon. I got it buttoned up this morning & 4-quarts of fluid are in.

I switched to a larger hose for the gear oil. Unfortunately it's a shorter hose, so now I'm filling through the RR wheel well, but at least it's flowing now.

If you have enough access, you can poke the tip of the oil bottle into the hole and squeeze the bottle. You can actually get about 80% of the oil out. I find regardless of method, it is fairly easy to make a mess when dealing with gear oil.

You can always take an extra bottle and drill the appropriate size hole in the bottom for a valve stem, then transfer the fluid, flip it over and pressurize at just a few PSI, the equivalent of squeezing. Kind of a fiddly way to do it, but it works.

mazdeuce wrote: You can always take an extra bottle and drill the appropriate size hole in the bottom for a valve stem, then transfer the fluid, flip it over and pressurize at just a few PSI, the equivalent of squeezing. Kind of a fiddly way to do it, but it works.

You, sir, are a genuine genius!

In reply to mazdeuce:

So, I probably shouldn't hook my compressor up to it? Brilliant idea BTW!

In reply to TED_fiestaHP:

Sadly there isn't. I can't even get a socket, extension, or u-joint on the end of my 3/8" hex bit. I had to turn it with a wrench to get the plug out.

$5.99 at Advance Auto

In reply to Woody:

Quit being the voice of reason. This is why you don't get invited to parties.

Dude, I had somehow missed this thread since you first started it. Read through all 48 pages today and it's a roller coaster ride on the emotions! Awesome job getting it to where it is today. I haven't attempted to rebuild an engine yet and have the utmost respect for people who have, you're in that group for sure.

I have never had good luck with carbs so good luck to you with this one. I would have gone out of my way to stick with the FI setup.

I'm now waiting like the rest of the other guys here for a burnout vid.

mazdeuce wrote: In reply to Woody: Quit being the voice of reason. This is why you don't get invited to parties.

Somebody has to be the DD.

Day-107(3.5-hours):

The diff is lubed, radiator installed & filled, and cooling fan tested. The car is back on the ground & ready to fire up again.

I did have some minor fitment issues with the radiator - the drain petcock & lower trans cooler line fiiting didn't line up with their respective holes in the lower shroud, so I had to enlarge them both. The unit is slightly thicker than stock too, so the rubber isolators on top didn't want to squish down into place, but they eventually complied.