In reply to t25torx:
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying it.
FYI 4 quarts is probably halfway to a 700r4 pan drop refill. Don't run it low even idling or it'll kill itself
Hmm....
Thanks for the reminder. Need to fill the trans in the challenge car befotlre first fire so it doesn't self destruct.
In reply to patgizz:
Thanks Pat! I knew it stated 4.5qt in the manual, but there was sure more than that I drained out. I added 4qt and it's a bit above the full mark, but figured I'll need to top it off once I start it - I just had no idea how much.
Once you start it it'll suck it right up. The corvette pan is probably a bit shallower than the truck one but the pickups usually take me 8-8.5 quarts to be properly full.
Have at least 3 on the ready Start installing 1 as it gets started up. then with foot Hard on brake go into r then low then 20 30 seconds in each including r again then do it again then P then check level it may want 1 to 1.5 more, or more, Tq converters are funny 'bout how much actually comes out during a change.
I'm sitting the driver's seat plotting dash removal(hopefully this weekend), when I look out the windshield at the underside of the open hood and think "Damn, that looks like it's 8' away!" So I got the tape measure and checked... 9' from approximately where my eyes are to the frontmost point on the bumper. I'm going to be running into everything if I'm not careful!
18" is about where you lose your line of sight. I put marks on the wall to line myself up, after driving over batteries, tool boxes, left in front after working on it.
Pete Gossett wrote: I'm sitting the driver's seat plotting dash removal(hopefully this weekend), when I look out the windshield at the underside of the open hood and think "Damn, that looks like it's 8' away!" So I got the tape measure and checked... 9' from approximately where my eyes are to the frontmost point on the bumper. I'm going to be running into *everything* if I'm not careful!![]()
I put a new front air dam on the Z06 as the old one fell off due to numerous curb hits from the previous owner. Within a week I drove into a parking lot went too far into a parking space with curbing in the front and hit the thing taking a chunk out of it. sigh
I have also had the same problem of such a long hood. In my garage, I have a mark on the wall where I line up the drivers mirror. I wonder, if we can have backup cameras, why can't we have a camera mounted under the front bumper for parking? :D
Day-108(2.5-hours):
I topped off the coolant & oil, adjusted the valves, and attempted to start it...but the battery was dead. So I pushed it outside & attempted to jump it. After a few failed attempts from our van SBF pulled his truck over. It finally turned over, but acted like it was flooded. By that point I was tired & hungry, so I pushed it back in the garage and decided to deal with it tomorrow.
Pete Gossett wrote: ...I got the tape measure and checked... 9' from approximately where my eyes are to the frontmost point on the bumper.
That's...impressive. I bet these have fantastic weight distribution front-to-rear.
Well berkeley, now the car won't start...again.
I took the battery in, and after they charged & tested it, swapped it out for a slightly higher CCA one. I also pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them. They were slightly wet & oily, but didn't smell like raw gas. I sprayed them off, shook & wiped them dry, then reinstalled.
It cranked right up with new battery, but only sputtered a tiny bit. I tried starting fluid too, but got nothing else. So I rolled it back in the garage.
I attempted to take out the gauge cluster, but none of the instructions I found gave specific details on how to get the connectors out. They come out the passenger's side of the cluster, and are routed behind the center console. There's not enough room to pull the cluster out far enough to get to them from the front, and there's not any access through the center console to reach them either. I tried using a long flat-blade screwdriver to pry them out from the gap between the cluster and center console, but they feel like they're latch in place - from behind.
Beer is for working on cars...Scotch is for the recovery sessions!
I sooooooo want this thing to fire up and run!
Looking back over the thread, you didn't do anything to the motor. It was running. Starter fluid nothing. I'd check spark, I think you have a plug tester. I'm leaning towards that distributor.
In reply to Dirtydog:
It was spark...or rather timing. I'd tightened down the distributor, but it must have slipped before I did. Timing was about 30-degrees ATDC.
So I did get it running for 20-minutes, until it ran out of gas - those 5-gallons of premium sure didn't last long.
I topped off the trans fluid, it needed another 3-qt to bring it back up to full. Then I drove it the ~70' to the end of the drive & backed up again. So I've confirmed 1st works...only 2 more gears to check.
The cooling fan never switched on though, so I jumpered it to run. Temps on the upper hose stayed between 160-170 with it running. I'm not sure what range this switch is, as it isn't marked. It's the stock switch for an '85 Chevy pickup though, so I can probably google that E36 M3. It also doesn't stick down into the coolant stream due to the thread adaptor - is that a problem?
As I was pushing it back in the garage I noticed this.
It's trans fluid, and based on where it is my first guess is the splice in the trans cooler line, though I suppose it could be at the radiator junction, or possibly the dipstick tube.
Then I walked back into the garage a few minutes later to find it pissing coolant out the passenger's side somewhere again...
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