PROGRESS!!! Passenger side is coolant hose city. Anything with a clamp, check. Same goes for that trans cooler. Cooling lines are easier to fix than trans work. Don't remember, but somewhere in the 190's range my fan kicks in. These cars run HOT...210 is normal.
In reply to Dirtydog:
Part of the issue I think is due to the carb conversion both the heater hose out the top of the intake, and the upper radiator hose, are about 2" above the top of the radiator. I don't have any way to get the air out, but I did pour as much coolant into the top hose as I could before clamping it back down.
What I really need is a coolant neck that points straight forward and is basically horizontal. I've spent a few hours searching for one, but no one seems to offer one. All of the swivel ones are taller and tend to point upward somewhat too.
Is it possible to DIY an SBC coolant neck out of PVC or something easily workable with hand tools?
Try to Burp it old school. Leave the cap off, run it until no more air bubbles. You already have the fan jumped, so shouldn't overheat. I don't think PVC is a good idea.
Check out Summit, part# WND-6244
Jegs 555-5113
In reply to Dirtydog:
The one from Summit angles upward. I can't find the one on Jegs, though I found this one for Ford that's exactly what I need...if I can find it for GM.
Edit: This one might work - but I don't like how it sticks up an extra inch. That would still put it a bit above the radiator.
Oh, this one would work, but damn that's pricey! 
Sure, you get it running AFTER I leave. 
Jegs 555-51113 Sorry.
In reply to Dirtydog:
That might work, and it's cheap enough I may try it. Though I wish it had a bleed screw on top.
I'll break out the level tomorrow & try to get a pic of the elevation difference between the hose, top of radiator, and cap.
Jegs 228-5292200 or 710-63420
In reply to Dirtydog:
Neither of those point straight forward, and it doesn't appear that they swivel, so unfortunately they wouldn't clear the accessories.
Jegs 710-6430 with bleeder.
Well Pete, just added you to my sons list of things GM. I'll keep poking around.
Or drill and tap for 1/4 bolt and a o ring. Diy bleeder.
In reply to Dirtydog:
Thanks!
Bingo Duster.
Here's a couple pics to hopefully help demonstrate the problem.
The level is plumb with the top of the radiator.
So I have about a 4" rise from the thermostat.
On the other side, the radiator cap is actually below the top of the radiator.
Actually what you need is A coolant fill funnel
In reply to QuasiMofo:
I don't completely understand how that works? Is it a special radiator cap that accepts the (leak proof?) funnel, allowing you to fill the system higher than the cap?
Good Morning All. Try these on for size. Summit SME-2202, HRE-3423, RNB-902-305
I read in the Summit comments of the filler neck, some guy used it on a C3 Vette to solve burping problems.
Drill and tap the top of the neck and install the drain thingy from the Old radiator to bleed out the air, when Finished and full of water(keep the overflow full) and Hot Loosen the Sensor for the Fan and bleed the air from there,Yes it makes a difference Just like you don't get a good reading from the temp Gauge if not touching water. Kinda no money spent.
I don't get how this system ever functioned with the radiator cap that low, wouldn't that not self burp/top off correctly with it not being the highest point of the system?
In reply to BrokenYugo: you raise the Radiator out of the cradle,the factory uses a forced aka pressure design, Pete is by himself in this venture,Making his results mo better..!
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