That's what I was thinking. Like finding one with the IMS already done and in good shape. Anyway, I don't want to thread jack any more so I'll just sit back and watch.
That's what I was thinking. Like finding one with the IMS already done and in good shape. Anyway, I don't want to thread jack any more so I'll just sit back and watch.
thatsnowinnebago wrote: That's what I was thinking. Like finding one with the IMS already done and in good shape. Anyway, I don't want to thread jack any more so I'll just sit back and watch.
No no, thread jack all you'd like. This is a great place to discuss converting you to the ways of the Boxster.
One of us
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One of us
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One of us
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Well.... OK then. Do your worst 
Last night was a night of progress. I'm getting pretty good at removing the center console and putting it back in.
First, I started with the short shift kit installation.
Step 1 - Remove center console
Step 2 - Mark the spot where the cables exit the shifter assembly. Detach cables.
Step 3 - Remove shifter base and install short shift components.
I was lucky in that the used Agency Power shifter I purchased was already installed in a good OEM base.
For 250 dollars, I got this piece ($300 new), and this piece ($125 new), already mounted in the factory housing (about 300 dollars new). Plus, I didn't have to pay shipping, tax, or have to wait for it to arrive.
Luckily, I was driving through the bay area on my way to Laguna Seca last weekend, so Saturday morning, I picked it up from the guy! Nice guy, great price, pretty good product! And people say Porsche guys are jerks...
Step 4 - Reinstall cables
Step 5 - Admire the shiny bits before you cover them back up with the center console.
The shifter, after a short drive to work this morning, is fantastic. The shifts are much shorter, and the engagement is much more positive. Where the old shifter could just flop into gear, the new one feels "chunkier" if that can be described as a good thing. It feels almost like a gated shifter now, and I like it. It'll be interesting to give the thing a workout in the mountains this weekend.
While the center console was out, I picked up a few of these buggers.
And some of these.
In an effort to clean up my audio install from last month, I shortened some of the cables, soldered in a stronger USB outlet with space for 2 cables, and rerouted some wires around the shifter base.
I was using an aging Moto Droid 4, and recently upgraded to a new Samsung Galaxy S5. The problem is that the Droid used a micro-USB charger, and the S5 uses a USB 3.0 charger. The significant-other's new phone still uses micro-USB, though, so I had to keep that ability.
I also picked up a micro-USB to Apple 30 pin so that I can charge my old ipod.
Nice work!
Swank Force One wrote: In reply to Maroon92: Ultra Racing is fine. They're just braces/sway bars ergo: not rocket surgery. They're cheap and serve their purpose. They just don't have the same "ahhhh!" Factor of say... Cusco or Beatrush.
That's what I figured.
I've never heard of them before, but they have five different chassis braces for my car, and the 97 isn't known for its structural rigidity (A brace was added in 1998 so that the cars could be equipped with 18 inch wheels. Supposedly the chassis isn't strong enough without it.)
Either way, they have free shipping on everything, so I figure I'll just buy them one at a time over the next year or so.
A set of springs and sway bars will be next, though.
Not much to add today, but I did get my decal in the mail today!
4 dollars well spent!
I got a matching t-shirt that is printed in German - "Die Welt Ist Flach"
Blipshift is awesome.
My 2 pound battery arrived in the mail today. Lets see if I can make it through the day without freaking out and going home to install it!
I'm sure the OP is aware of this, but for those interested in high mileage Boxsters, here's a long running thread over on Pelican Parts. Link about a high mileage 99.
I actually had not seen that thread (I don't spend much time on the bird, as I've spent my entire career working for their various competitors). I like some of the stuff he's done to the car, but that GT2 bodykit is a bit over the top for my likes. I'd go 996 GT3 before GT2, for sure.
Of course, RSR bumpers and flares are always welcome...
I'm not sure about this thing, though...
Maroon92 wrote: Of course, RSR bumpers and flares are always welcome... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads19/cp2_1980small1321398716.jpg I'm not sure about this thing, though...
Holy Bork Berries, WTF is that thing and is there a build thread / more details?????
Well, it has arrived. This thing is awesome. It's listed at just under 2 pounds, and has a cell-balancer already wired into the case, so it "works like a normal battery". They claim '5 times the life of lead-acid batteries', and say it won't discharge in storage for up to a year.
Is this the future?
Here is a friend's picture of the same battery shown with a soda bottle for scale.
I just need to figure out how to securely mount it in the box.
Erg, I had no idea Deltran was doing batteries like these. I'd have skipped Ballistic and gone with them (integrated cell balancer?? Why didn't Ballastic do that?!) had I known.
Hope you have good luck with it. Nice thread.
pres589 wrote: Erg, I had no idea Deltran was doing batteries like these. I'd have skipped Ballistic and gone with them (integrated cell balancer?? Why didn't Ballastic do that?!) had I known. Hope you have good luck with it. Nice thread.
They are brand new. I think they just came out about a month ago.
They're selling like hotcakes on Amazon. Looks like they've restocked, because there were only 3 remaining when I bought mine.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-BTL14A240C-Lithium-Phosphate/dp/B00F9LPJ8S
Took the old battery out.
Popped the new battery in.
Starts the car without issue. Charges without issue. Saves 37 pounds.
Not bad, IMHO.
Final install pictures will be loaded later tonight.
Did you need to keep 12v going to the car while you changed the battery? I could be wrong but I thought I read something about doing that to maintain the computer's memory.
Woody wrote: Did you need to keep 12v going to the car while you changed the battery? I could be wrong but I thought I read something about doing that to maintain the computer's memory.
I did not. The main concern there is the radio lockout (I don't have the factory becker stereo in the car anymore anyhow...) The only thing that happened (AFAIK) was my trip-meter reverting to zero, and the clock on the dash read 1:00AM when I started it up again.
Car runs and drives without any issues, so I don't know what "memory" it would have lost.
As promised, here is video of the tiny battery starting the beast.
Please ignore my annoying voice...
The car performed flawlessly over the weekend. We went on a 170 mile round trip all the way around Lake Tahoe and back.
SWMBO took the car to work today, so we'll see if I get a call later for a dead battery... Unless she leaves the interior light on, I don't think that will happen.
I've now officially put 3000 miles on the car (purchased it in late February). Lifetime (since I've owned it) fuel mileage is averaging out to 22.97.
Not bad considering there were two days of autocross in there, and a number of spirited drives in the mountains.
Great car, can't get over it.
Project Boxster Clubsport got its own featured "Project Car" series!
Also, I drove around in the NorCal mountains with some kooky Lancia fanatics over the weekend. Another 250 mile round trip in which the car performed flawlessly.
It really needs some better tires, though. Not a big fan of the Sumitomo HTR II (360 treadwear) that are on there.
Pulled the door speakers today, as they weren't receiving any signal anymore with my small amplifier. Removed another 8 pounds 6 ounces total, which was nice. These speakers are much heavier than I expected them to be.
The unfortunate reason behind opening up the door panels wasn't simply in the search for weight loss, just a fortunate byproduct. The 986 build quality is finally rearing its ugly head and biting back.
I've lost complete function to the driver's side door window. Won't go up, won't go down, won't jog down 1" when the door handle is pulled, nothing.
I did some troubleshooting, and it isn't the switch or the motor at fault.
When hooked up to the driver's side harness, the motor won't turn at all, but when it's hooked up to the passenger's side harness, it works perfectly, completing all functions without flaw.
Passenger's side does everything it is supposed to.
Top will still go down without any issues (I open the driver's side door to avoid any contact between the window and the top, as breaking the window or the top is the last thing I need right now.)
Any suggestions? If it's not the switch, its not the motor, and its not the regulator, what else could it be? Bad connection somewhere?
Yup, mine had a broken wire in the door harness. I've not seen anyone else complain about that though.
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