Made it to Mazduece house and retrieved Hazmat.
Mrs. Deuce saw us off and I got about a mile down the road before the battery light came on and then the dash lit up a half mile later.
got the car pulled over and turns out the positive battery connect was still a bit loose. Tightened back down with a passerby's tools and we jumped it and it's been running for 20 minutes sitting here at the gas station.
More photos and updates to come. We'll see how today ends...
If you picked up a Honda of questionable history (and let's be honest, living at my house is sketch) and you didn't bring a box end 10mm, that's on you. 
I hope the rest of the day is going smoothly.
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
It was great until now, Battery will not hold a charge.
Well poop. It was not super happy before which is why I pulled the cable over the summer. It had been only holding charge for a week or so hooked up. I was a little surprised that it started so easily for Mrs. Deuce.
Should be an easy size to find? Because Civic?
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
$175 later and I've got a new one and an old one we can try to revive.
Got these shocks from my buddy Ben.
His words were "please take them away before someone buys my house and I have to throw them away!"
This is his current garage situation.
They came off his 2008 civic Si coupe in late 2011 when he installed the HPD suspension kit with shocks, struts and springs all the way around.
He gave me the rear springs already and the stock exhaust and front struts and springs are in the rafters of his garage to be grabbed shortly.
The shocks transformed the car. Before it was really nervous over any bumps. Now it's composed and happy.
I'll write up the install later. Right now we're going to dinner and then I'm headed back to DFW cause right now I'm nearly in Galveston.
I forget batteries are so expensive now. 
Hazmat and I are making solid progress North from Houston. Rockin 30 miles to the gallon and the car is just rock solid with the "new" shocks
Hazmat and I arrived home about 15 minutes ago. I friggin love this car.
Rad. Go do rad stuff.
mazdeuce - Seth said:I forget batteries are so expensive now.
Wife and I were just talking about that same thing yesterday.
I forget batteries are so expensive now.
Things are no better in Dodge Challenger land --- the huge battery is in the trunk and costs about $200!
So despite my semi expensive day yesterday buying a battery. I made off like a bandit. The parts haul I got from my buddy was EPIC.
The fujita box has an entire stock airbox assembly in it from when he installed his intake. The small boxes have stock pulleys cause he installed underdrive pullies on his car years ago.
The other big box has brembo slotted rotors, a semi used set of EBC something's and a unused brand new set of EBC Yellows for the front. I got the married flashpro as well that I need to unlock.
I'll get photos of the rest of the goodies later tonight.
And I took the car to work this morning.
Current priority list is this.
#1 find the source of the low speed whine.
#2 repair the rear motor mount.
#3 fix the loose LCD display in the radio. Once this is done the car will be damn near perfect on the freeway.
Got the new shocks mounted yesterday.
Here's the install info for anyone who wants to know.
You'll need the following items
14mm box wrench
5mm Allen key(something you can get leverage on is preferable)
14mm socket, 1/2" recommended. Depth doesn't matter.
Deadblow hammer.
You'll need to get the entire rear of the car into the air and pull both your rear tires at the same time so that entire rear suspension can be in full droop.
Once you've done this, you can pull the rear trunk liner on both sides to access the shock tops.
I swapped OEM Honda for OEM Honda. So if your shocks have a different mount setup or they don't secure like the factory ones do. Consult your shock manufacturer for the best practices on your setup.
Trunk liner is 4 little pop screw things per side. 2 of mine were stuck so I ended up pulling hard and slipping the liner out of them. I also pulled the center trim around the latch.
Now you need the box wrench and the Allen key. This photo was us putting the final torque on the "new" shocks I put in.
You need the allen key to prevent the shock shaft from spinning as you spin the nut off.
Once this is done you can remove the lower shock bolt with your 14mm socket. I used an impact and zipped it off in no time flat. The lower shock mount bolt screws into a captive steel nut that's welded on the Lower control arm so you don't need to hold anything as you remove this bolt.
Installation is reverse of removal. You might need the dead blow to get the lower shock mount into place and to get the bolt into the captive nut.
Lower bolt torque is 45 lb ft. Shock shaft top mount torque is 22lb ft.
Took the car to lunch, AC compressor defintitely hits a lot harder at moderate RPM's 4-5k. So it may be part of my noise.
will have to drive and test more.
I hope you put the load back on the axle somehow before you tightened the lower bolt. If not you won't kill the bushings in a few miles, but you should squeeze under with the car on the ground and loosen them a 1/2 turn and then re-tighten them ASAP.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
noted, I'll get that done tomorrow.
worke don items #1 and #3 tonight.
I learned how much of a berkeleying pain the rear it is to pull the serpentine and re route it. because I wanted to see if the sound went away without the belt. changed but isn't totally gone. so probably just how the car is. But now I'm pretty confident I can swap tha belt in no time flat. and My race ramps continue to prove themselves to be awesome with my ability to slide under the car and route the belt without pulling shields. the idler pulley on top is making a little noise now and the AC system has some kind of blockage or the compressor is failing. I'll try replacing the evap core next and then going from there.
the radio LCD was completely loose inside the radio and so i pulled the LCD so i don't have to hear it rattle around anymore but the radio isn't working properly now so I'll have to find a solution to this tomorrow. which may be duct taping the LCD to the back of the radio so it's there but not making noise.
car runs good though and I exchanged videos and conversations with my Honda technician buddy who found me this car in the first place. and we're of the agreed opinion to monitor the AC and the pulley and replace them soon and just send it in the meantime!
I also pulled the coils and went to pull the plugs and realized I couldn't find my spark plug socket so I'll do that another time. there was a TINY TINY bit of oil in the #2 spark plug hole.. like the tube grommet might be weeping ever so slightly.. I'll keep an eye on it but judging by the rust on the bolts on the heat shroud above the motor the plugs are probably original...
Rallycross at BCR on the 31st. You didn't want those shocks to last, did you?
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
I'll come drive the miata or get Brian to let me drive the RX7. Hazmat is a on road car until further notice.
Coward. 
I need to sort the new school year schedule so see what's what. Good chance that I'll be there. Maybe with a kid.
AC is acting wierd, doesn't work with a darn around town now and it's causing driveablilty issues with stumbling... turn the AC off and the car is happy as can be.
and my buddy just put these wheels up for sale on book of faces
SSR Comp wheels in 17x9
OMG
NEED but actually DONT NEED
Well a battery voltage issue cropped back up on my way home from work tonight.. So need to test the alternator..
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