Beancup123 said:
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Is there any way you could measure the depth or length of the FRS bellhousing and the distance which the input shaft protrudes from it? I have been contemplating doing the same swap in a Miata and the Miata 6 speed from 1999-2005 uses the same transmission as the FRS. So this might simplify it significantly.
I wouldn't complain about the dimensions of the tailhousing and the length of the output shaft either.
If everything adds up I'd love to buy an adapter plate from you!
Also, have you considered using an FSE or Tacoma oil pan? It may be able to clear your setup, and I'm pretty confident that they interchange.
Do you have solidworks or some other CAD program? I can send you plenty of info if so.
The IS350 pan is actually pretty close, but still not quite where I wanted things. It'd work great if I were less worried about serviceability and wanted half the engine inside the tunnel.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
The AZ6 transmission family dates back pretty far, but there's some debate as to how much/what is shared between models. For example the IS250 transmission I had briefly shared almost nothing with the BRZ box, even though they're both Aisin AZ6s.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
Like he said, the AZ6 is quite common, used with SR20DETs, RX8, FRS, IS250, Miata, and I think a couple more. They're all different for sure, the bellhousings, tailshaft housings, and entire gearsets are different on many of them. Including the lengths of the input and output shafts etc. So I highly doubt it will be as simple as swapping a bellhousing to put an SR20 or 13B (or this 2GR) into an FRS or Miata.
In reply to Beancup123 :
It seems to be about as wide and varied as the T5.
"this bellhousing allows you to bolt a T5 to an X"
"WHICH T5? They're all different"
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Yes I do have enough access to CAD software to know that I have no idea how to properly use it but I'm sure I'll be able to figure out the dimensions you've gathered!
In reply to Beancup123 :
PM sent, if it doesn't come through send me one instead.
Installed the hood to check clearance:
The answer is some, but not a lot. Probably going to need a little cutout to clear whatever the intake solution is, not the end of the world and should be minimal:
Also did some fiddling with the fuel tank and a spare pump to check something I'd been curious about- the driver side of the tank has the fuel pump, but the passenger side is just this little siphon thing and a second float:
However, the retaining rings and stuff all match, so if I take a second complete fuel pump assembly and just attach that siphon line to it....
Goes in like it's meant to be there. This means that I can have a pre-installed spare pump, and if I make my line and wire routing capable of reaching both sides, I should be able to switch pumps on the side of the road quickly without opening anything. Neat!
It probably won't work as well as the primary pump in the correct location, but hopefully enough to get back to service with minimal time lost if I ever need to use the backup:
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Double pumper EFI, three quarter race cam, sumbich will jump a coke can on pump gas...
You're probably aware, but for the rest of the class following along, Frankenstein Motorworks has been developing low-profile lower intakes that are compatible with a modified Holley LS-style intake plenum, then you weld on your throttle body flange of choice. It can get kinda spendy but 330 N/A wheel horsepower from just some cams, intake, headers, and tuned stock ECU is nothing to sneeze at... And theoretically you could do ITB's with this manifold.
https://frankensteinmotorworks.squarespace.com/shop/p/2gr-low-profile-velocity-stack-intake-manifold
https://wilhelmraceworks.com/shop/modified-holley-plenum-p611806596
In reply to maschinenbau :
I'm very aware, and equally aware of the price tag. There are more fitment things to work on before that's the thing holding me up.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
The dual pump set up is what the road race/TT folks have been using as well - on sustained left turns, with less than about 3/4 tank, it will fuel starve. Adding a pump on the other side covers it!
Side note - and I know its a ways off - but I still have the mold for the quad round light pod for the FRS...
Berck
Reader
6/13/24 1:58 p.m.
If you're going to go through the trouble of adding a second pump, seems like you'd want to make it cockpit-switchable? If you run both all the time, you won't know when one fails. If you have to manually swap wiring (which is what it sounds like you were planning), you've wasted time, and you won't know if the backup pump still works when you need it. I run mine on alternate pumps during transits to make sure they're both working and flip both on during stages.
In reply to Berck :
You know, you just caused me to check the rules again- switchable pumps used to be illegal, looks like not so much anymore. I'll think on that, might be a reasonable thing to plan for.
Berck
HalfDork
6/13/24 2:11 p.m.
The tricky rule part for me is that rule that the fuel pumps have to quit when the engine does. I'm sure whatever ECU you end up using will support this, just don't bypass that like whoever built my car did. I've got the dumb oil pressure sensor that kills both fuel pumps, but it sometimes trips when hot at idle and I'd like a better solution...
Interesting find with the double-pump setup, I'd heard some people were running such a setup inside stock Toyobaru tanks but I assumed it was custom work. I haven't been too tempted to try such a setup since the Verus trapdoor on my single pump lets me run it down to 1/8th of a tank pretty reliably.
Reminder on the hood clearance issue: Shaker hoods are underrated 
Bit of suspension research this weekend- dropped the stock rear subframe and all the stuff attached to it:
Bolted up my experimental subframe with solid mounts, this also has both the stock trailing arm mount and a ~30mm dropped trailing arm point, which is the main subject of this check:
Did lots of moving stuff up and down with a laser pointing at the floor and marking stuff:
And then laser moved to the ground and more measuring to figure out what it's all actually doing:
Result? Even without an adjustable arm (which would let me really dial things in) this gets me drastically reduced toe change at the droop end of the suspension travel, as well as about 2 more inches of usable droop. I'm thinking v2 of this experiment should include an adjustable link and as much trailing arm drop as I can fit before it becomes the lowest part of the car, theoretically the antisquat improvement will be huge if I can get it even lower and it doesn't seem like anything bad happens to the bumpsteer either.
Suspension maths.
Keep it up, I love watching it all come together!
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Question- What is the outside width of the stock subframe (With wheels/tires)?
Reason- Possible IRS for the little truck...
In reply to Recon1342 :
It's gonna be right in the ~66" range or a bit more depending on wheels and tires installed, I can double check that for you later. There's a good range of offsets to play with to tweak it if that's close enough for what you're aiming for.
EDIT: measures 67.5" to the outside of the Impreza 17s it's currently got on it.
In reply to Recon1342 :
It looks like the same rear suspension as a Forester or Impreza, if any of these have different track widths.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
It's similar but not identical, and the differential is huge by comparison.
One more little thing before taking it off the lift for the L2wd car to take priority for a bit- zapped this chunk of angle iron in so when I start chopping away at the tunnel and firewall, the rest of the floor stays put:
Rallying the orange car has been taking priority but small steps continue to happen.
In the category of "it all weighs something" I cut more stuff off (those tiedown hooks were actually quite heavy):
And a large sendcutsend order has arrived with my towers for both ends of the suspension as well as control arm reinforcements and some other little stuff:
A lot of it matches the L2wd car but these rear towers will be all new:
I'm liking those strut towers! What's the long bent up piece on the left? Cross tie between the towers? Trans mount?
In reply to rallyxPOS13 :
I believe you've spotted the core support reinforcement- on these cars it's also the main brace between the frontmost control arm mounts so it merits beefing up. This is basically the same design I used on the L2wd car, and it has taken some hard hits just fine on that one.
