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Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
10/9/24 2:02 p.m.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:

In reply to fidelity101 :

Does it?  I thought u-joint angles at both ends of the driveshaft were supposed to be within .5deg as a general rule, but I am willing to learn otherwise.

Within .5 but also less than 2-3 degrees absolute angle. depending on how fast you are spinning it.

 

I shoot for zero degrees in the black RX-7 because that sucker is spinning hard and you can feel 1 degree even if the two joints are complementary.  It's more an issue under cruise or coast and not heavy load.

Patrick
Patrick MegaDork
10/9/24 7:59 p.m.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:

In reply to GladlyTheCrossEyedBear :

Yep, planning on a single piece- critical speed for a 3" steel driveshaft at this length will still be well past the top of 5th gear, so we should be ok.  If I have issues I could return to a 2 piece design but it hopefully won't be necessary.

You're shortening it by 8" on an already short wheelbase car, a 1 piece shaft will definitely be everything you need. Plus less spinny bits to break

 

i love what you're doing, keep it up. 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UltimaDork
10/14/24 9:27 a.m.

With a bit more trimming, the tunnel was ready for another fitup:

And then I just decided it wasn't going to get any closer to perfect so I zapped the transmission and support bearing mounts to the car:

Pulled the engine/transmission out again (really tight with the cross support welded under the car but it worked):

Did a bunch more welding until I was nearly out of argon, ending up here:

Then set about making templates for when I get a refill- a giant roll of this white paper was pretty cheap and it's way nicer than hoarding and chopping up cardboard:

And the driveshaft showed up already!  Axle Exchange in NJ was easy to work with and very prompt, it was just "BRZ?  What length?  OK, you'll have it this week" and it uses normal 1310 u-joints so I can have a spare easily.  Despite the larger diameter and steel construction, it's still 5lbs lighter than the stock 2-piece:

fidelity101
fidelity101 UberDork
10/14/24 12:45 p.m.

why not an aluminum shaft? 

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
10/14/24 1:05 p.m.

Hopefully you don't need the center support bearing. With the Kpower kit it was 5.5" shorter and had lots of vibration but that was aluminum. I think steel is more forgiving with harmonics?

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UltimaDork
10/14/24 1:49 p.m.

In reply to fidelity101 :

Rocks.  Might do one if I'm chasing tenths later and keep the steel one as a spare.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UltimaDork
10/14/24 1:50 p.m.

In reply to captainawesome :

Did you check drivetrain angles with the Kpower stuff?  Wouldn't be the first kit that failed to account for something like that.

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
10/14/24 1:52 p.m.

In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :

Never did, but when I shortened the stock one I had to use a spacer to get proper driveline angles, so you may be on to something with that. It was roughly a 1/2" drop if I remember correctly.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UltimaDork
10/14/24 2:01 p.m.

In reply to captainawesome :

That's a LOT, at least based on the pretty mild shimming I've been doing to place this tunnel- hopefully that was it, and if not I'll find out the fun way.

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
10/14/24 2:34 p.m.

In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :

It sounds like you are going through more rigorous planning in this aspect than Kpower did, so I bet you are going to be fine. They did a great job with some of the kit and other parts were not well thought out. The shifter setup, driveshaft, and cooling system were the most egregious offenders.

paperpaper
paperpaper Reader
10/17/24 2:30 p.m.

Why not a carbon fiber driveshaft like Jesus 02wd intended?

Recon1342
Recon1342 UltraDork
10/17/24 3:35 p.m.

In reply to paperpaper :

Carbon fiber has less than phenomenal impact strength...

fidelity101
fidelity101 UberDork
10/17/24 4:19 p.m.
paperpaper said:

Why not a carbon fiber driveshaft like Jesus 02wd intended?

they unwrap in rally

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
10/19/24 7:21 a.m.

Apropos of nothing.

It sounds GLORIOUS.

maschinenbau
maschinenbau PowerDork
10/19/24 9:48 a.m.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

berkeley yeah

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
10/20/24 2:26 p.m.

And he just left the course mid run after coming through sounding like it was running less than stellar sad

paperpaper
paperpaper Reader
10/21/24 11:42 a.m.

In reply to fidelity101 :

I know. we are poking fun at another car we compete against. 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UltimaDork
10/28/24 12:17 p.m.

Welding, lots of it:

The underside has several pieces of the OEM floor structure folded over each other and then capped with what used to be the front of the lower tunnel- not the prettiest but it's really strong, don't want a rock coming through there:

Paint- this will get sealer at a later time and more paint but have to keep it from rusting:

Engine and transmission back in to check things again:

Plenty more sheet metal fun ahead for me:

And hey, the driveshaft fits!  I'll need to clearance the shift rod a bit, the larger u-joint is too close for comfort:

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
10/28/24 12:47 p.m.

Does the fuel tank go over or under the driveshaft?

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UltimaDork
10/28/24 12:55 p.m.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

Over.  Stock saddle tank has its' downsides but low and back seems like the right place for sloshy fuel to live.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UltimaDork
11/19/24 7:07 a.m.

Since the transmission tunnel is now in place, seat mounts could be made.  I wanted these as low and back as possible, and while I could've waited for cage time to make them, it seemed like a reasonable thing to do sooner rather than later so that things like pedal placement could be figured out.

First, tacked the landing plates (1/8" thick) in and cut some .75"x1.5" rectangle tube to length, then plopped the seat in.  Nice and far back, with plenty of adjustment forward if needed (yes I trimmed down the excessive side bracket later for final fitment):

Moving way back should hopefully do a few things- get the weight of the squishy human ballast onto the rear wheels, give us some usable room in the cabin, make the shifter actually reachable, and most importantly, get that nice thick factory B pillar involved as the first line of defense if we smack something sideways.  I could also use more headroom than I have in the current car, hence the super flat profile tubing.

Also something I don't frequently see discussed is how far inboard the seats can sit.  This is hard to push much further inboard than stock BRZ seating, but it's a nice spot to give plenty of clearance to the door bars- both in case of impact, and that gap is a nice place to put the codriver bag and triangles and whatnot:

Although Sara hasn't necessarily selected her seat yet, I'm using this Momo Daytona since I like how they fit and the ones in the current car are holding up well.  The seat mounts are mirrored and with the OMP brackets having plenty of adjustability, should fit whatever she chooses as long as the width isn't crazy different.

Onward with the thick-to-thin deeply annoying welding of the plates:

You can see the slot I cut in the floor for the angle iron runner to sink into- rather than notch the (very much structural) angle iron I decided to notch the thin floor instead and stitch it back together after.  That area is actually a box section and is closed underneath.  The inboard front landing plate is extra long, because the transmission mount lives there and I figured why not brace it while I'm doing this:

The windows cut into the tops of the tubes are how I welded the lower edge since it's basically resting on the floor- then I zapped those sections back in:

Next, angle iron runners- these aren't strictly necessary, I could've just made the crossbars exactly the right distance apart and put weld nuts on those, but I'd like some adjustability here and having the entire base of the side brackets resting on something instead of hovering in the middle makes me feel better:

I also welded a 1" tube crossbar to these as an antisubmarine strap mount before dropping them in- there's some debate as to whether this is better than an eyelet on the floor, but my personal preference is not mounting any safety system directly to the lowest part of a rally car:

Welded everything to everything:

I also stitched the crossbars and angle to the floor everywhere that they were close to touching:

These things are really stiff and hopefully we never have to really test them:

Paint:

If the gaps between the welds on the tunnel are jumping out at you, me too- seam sealer and final floor paint waits until I'm sure I'm not welding more.

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