"Remote" Air Compressor question

This weekend I moved my 60 gallon air compressor up to my loft.( Air compressor move )

It has a short drain on it. I was wondering if i extended that drain to be more of a reservoir, do I need to drain as often? I'm thinking of extending the drain pipe down below the floor of the loft so that it is reachable and can collect the water instead of pooling in the bottom of the air tank.

Also, any suggestions on wiring a remote switch (I'm just being lazy here as I haven't started research, but if anyone else here has done it I'd like to see )

Thanks!

You can extend the drain down to floor level and let it behave as an accumulator. I would put a valve a couple of feet up from the pipe end, as well as one at the end. That way you can close the upper valve and open the lower to drain the water without venting the tank pressure. That drain should probably be attached to the tank with a hose to isolate the vibration. Schematics for placement of filters and drains on any plumbing throughout the garage are readily found online.

Northern Tool sells a remote drain kit, although it sounds like you may need a longer hose. Assuming you can find a valve rated for the pressure, I can't imagine it would be too hard to duplicate. They also sell an automatic drain kit, but they aren't cheap. However, it does remove the need to remember to drain the tank, which I imagine few of us do on a regular basis.

http://autospecsinfo.com/search/Air-Compressor-Piping-Layout-Diagrams/

Good info here.

120V 1/2" NPT full port NC solenoid valve oughta work too, mounted at tank outlet, push button operated from below. Hose run to the floor would be cheaper than pipe after the valve, just secure the hose so it don't flop around during blowdown.

Valve oughta be found around $30 at Ebay industrial or surplus sites. Buy name brand.

NPT pipe and ball valves worked for me. Run a soft hose outside. I also just kicked the breaker for my compressor. Of course, I had plans to do it right, with a 220 V switch from the electrical supply house, but everything plain worked, and so it stayed. Occum's Razor.

I just have a long piece of hose that runs from the tank drain to a Barb and a cheesy winged bleeder fitting. I manually drain everything from the tanks when I'm done for the day.

I do like DeadSkunks idea to keep the tank pressure and drain with two valves. I am gonna have to try that one.

I have a 1/8" npt solenoid valve and a 1/4 turn ball valve hanging off the drain in mine. The ball valve is throttled to allow just a tiny bit of air or water flow when the solenoid valve opens, and the solenoid valve is wired to the switch that turns on the compressor motor. Every time the compressor runs the solenoid opens and drains any moisture from the tank.

Both valves and the fittings were under $20 total and it's so automatic I don't even think about it anymore.

That's a great way to handle it.