Rivets?

Sorry for the large picture , but I just figured out how to post pictures from my phone.  This could be a game changer for me. I want to patch the rust behind the doors on this car.  My welding skills are not really there yet to attempt a welded patch.  I was at an auto cross and saw riveted license plates on a miata.  It was truly a roadkill thing of beauty.  I would like to do something similar on this car.  I am attempting to turn this into a rally cross car.

My question is:  Will a riveted patch just invite more moisture wicking into the area?   I don't want to make the problem worse down the road.  What say you?

In reply to thedoc :

Cut out bad metal, prime hole, cut new metal and panel bond on.

As long as all the rust is removed and it is properly coated you can seal the patch with panel adhesive or seam sealer before riveting it on. Possibly less likely to rust again than a welded panel where there is bare metal on the back side. 

EvanB said:

As long as all the rust is removed and it is properly coated you can seal the patch with panel adhesive or seam sealer before riveting it on. Possibly less likely to rust again than a welded panel where there is bare metal on the back side. 

That's exactly what I did when I replaced the rockers on my son's 02 Exploder. Still looked good when we sold it 3 years later.

I'm not going to lie, before I knew how to weld I would fix areas like that not unlike one would fix a boat, or a hole in drywall.

Cut out offensive area, prime/POR15, apply some sort of matrix(mesh or fiberglass mat) and use your epoxy and filler of choice(I prefer west system). I've fixed floor holes and the ever-present honda rear fender rot this way, and if done right, will last longer than the rest of the car. Again—I'm not saying it's ideal, but for a beater/track rat/seagoing vessel, it's a viable solve.

Your first picture reminds me of my 4 cylinder racecar.  

We upgraded to GT 11" rotors, still running drums in the rear after 6 years of racing.

Get a ranger roller cam in that motor pronto.  Once you are bored of that hit me up for an aluminum head.

Thanks Guys,

I bought  a H F welder, but I am not making the time to practice.  I have also been told not to bother with mig welding, just go to gas.

I just want to clean this up before it gets  any worse.  I also have total fun and laugh with my son over hack repairs.  We are in a mild lull in the Maine weather.  I think I will get to this in the spring.

In reply to akylekoz :

I really want to get this thing going as a rally cross car.  I have had major issues with the clutch fork cable breaking, it has just been replaced with a bolt.  I also need to put some coil overs in it as the suspension is shot.  Right now the car is my winter beater.  My other winter beater is down, so I have not rally crossed it.  I am also going to put a new rear end in it with posi.  With that said, I might just have the diff welded and try that, keeping the other rear end in reserve.  

I am surprised how pleasant this car is with the four cylinder.  My other mustang is supercharged, so I thought I would hate this car.  I have grown quite attached to it.  People in my office building  thought the car was abandoned, so that makes it extra special in my eye!

We run a 3:73 trac loc in ours even with that it prefers short and narrow 15" tires to the 245s on 17" rims.  Going from a stock tire diameter to a 23" feel like adding 50 horse.

At one race the team was sidelined with a broken clutch fork cable, this was the Friday before the race.  I somehow missed the 17 calls on my way down but listened to one message as I passed the last of four parts stores that had a cable in stock.  They were all freaked out about getting it fixed so we could continue our testing, I calmly listened to their ordeal then pointed to the spare trans that had the needed cable still attached.  Five minutes later we were on the track.  Moral of the story is Mustang parts are available everywhere but bring spares anyway.

My dad used to patch holes in the floorboards by riveting panels on. He did put some kind of coating on it to keep moisture out.

With the intended use of the car I would use what ever method you are the most comfortable with.  Maybe fiberglass it then stone guard the lower portion of the car so it all looks glassed, it worked on my old 4Runner.   Notch foxes are the most valuable fox right now, if only it was a V8 car.  Do you have hopes of retaining or increasing the value of the car?

IF you were around in the late 70's or early 80's you'd know about rusty cars.  I don't know how many cars I "fixed" with sheet steel and pop rivets.  If originally is not important it may be the easy way to go.  Bonding patch panels is good but you need to get all the metal clean for a good bond.  With pop rivets you just need solid metal to attach to. 

Most of my repairs was to floors of cars of mine or friends.  It seemed that snow covered shoes tracking that salt infusezed slush into a car is bad for it. Who knew.

In reply to akylekoz :

I really want to keep the car and upgrade as much as possible.  Have  you seen Roadkills "General Mayhem"?  I kind of thought I would go with keeping it as ratty as possible while putting nice parts on it.  I am going to do more rust work on it this summer, depending on how that goes, I'll see what I will do with the car.  I really do want to rally cross it.  My "trouble" is that I don't want to be in Vermont and have it break.  I don't have a truck to tow it right now.  

I have toyed with the idea of a v8 swap as well.  But I am only going to get rid of it if I pick up a nicer notch.

I have really fallen in love with the car.   I am daily driving it in the snow and it is a total blast.  It would do better donuts and slide easier if I didn't have studded tires.  The best part is getting a thumbs up from other mustang people in way nicer cars.   Oddly, the v8 guys like these because they have not been twisted by the larger engine.  But of course, they  will drop a v8 in it.  

My son really enjoys beaters, so he is crazy about the car.  He wasn't so crazy after a wheel fell off, but that is another story!

You could probably get away with riveting a plate on for cool points if you seal it all up.  Cut the rust out.  Prep and paint it all with POR.  Get your plate of choice prepped, paint the back of the plate with some POR.  Get the holes all drilled and ready for riveting, but before you rivet it slather it in seam sealer.  Then rivet it and let it dry. 

If its a rally cross car itll get washed often, maybe?  but Id try my best to seal it all up.