SkinnyG's 2010 Hyundai "Angry Accent"

My Kimcheep Hot Hatch.

Spoiler - This is what it's going to look like in less than a month:

LET'S START AT THE BEGINNING:

In the wake of 2022 gas prices vs. daily driving my '77 C10 ($140 of premium for 150km of driving, PER WEEK), I bought this little suppository.  In theory, I can save upwards of $7000 a year in gasoline alone. Which will free up some money to finish the '61 Apache sooner.Wheee!

Within two hours of arriving home, I ordered lowering springs.  They should arrive in a week or two. Or three.

No record of a timing belt having ever been done (should be 100,000km interval), so at 180,000km and an interference-engine, I did the t-belt, pump, and accessory belts.  Everything looked original.

Also changed the fuel pump, because it's convenient now, and less convenient being towed from the top of the Coquihalla.

Car came with a K&N filter, so that's cool.  I did delete the resonators on the factory piping. Not a huge increase in sound at all, but certainly "sportier."

New plugs as well. The old ones look decent.

Also a light skim to clean up a brake rotor pulsation.

And two exhaust hangars had rusted off, so I did my best to weld them back on. I bet I'll be replacing the exhaust in a year or two.

Also picked up a set of 15x6 steelies that I am pretty sure I can widen to 7".  I'll confirm measurements once the springs are in.

Really enjoying driving the car.  More fun than I expected.  BEAUTIFUL shifter (and it's not the B&M one).

Hyundai crew is getting bigger! Watching this one for sure. 

YES! got another one. So Saturday I learned that the 2010-2011 Rio5 SX came with rear disc brakes. Same size rotors as my '13, bu different calipers. I am really thinkng one of these could be aserious Sundae Cup competitor

SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:

 Kimcheep

I'm using that.

I totaled my Koup about five months ago and started car shopping the minute I got out of the ambulance. I looked at those early on but nice ones were really expensive and I decided to look a little newer. After considering pretty much everything else under the sun,  I pick up it's replacement tomorrow. Korean, cool, hopefully soon to be warm hatch.

It's a bit weird for me going Hyundai.  Truthfully I started my apprenticeship at a Hyundai dealership way back in the 80's, and I'm not sure I ever recovered.

Turns out we've come a long way from Ponys and Stellars.

Still..... feels weird.

In reply to Peabody :

wheres the build thread?!?!?

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

I get it. I didn't get into them until their first big leap forward from the cheap E36 M3ty car stage, 2001. The XD was, at the time, are seriously decent option compared to its contemporaries for a good day to day car. I remember there were still soe Scoupes and Excel's floating around then and how amazingly horrific they were. I'd still take a pony though.... never got them here. 

Build thread? Well, I should get the car first.

But I'm terrible at build threads. I'm old and happen to be quite lazy these days, so it takes forever to get anything done. Then if I actually start, I get halfway through the build thread then just stop posting... We'll see. You're gonna be disappointed anyway, so I may as well go all the way with it.

I test drove a car last week and this was in the dealership. The last one I owned was identical to this one, which only has about 3000 km on it

Lowering springs have allegedly cleared customs in Toronto.  That means they could be here this week. But with my luck, two months from now.

The aftermarket rear sway bars for these are 16mm (5/8"). I thought I had some 5/8" bar around.  Turns out I didn't, so I bent up a 3/4" bar.  What could possibly go wrong?  Pics once I have the mounts welded on.

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

19mm is what my rio rear bar is and was the common upgrade for the XD chassis Elantra. If you were on stiff coilovers I might be concerned, but softer lowering springs you'll be fine.

bobzilla said:

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

19mm is what my rio rear bar is and was the common upgrade for the XD chassis Elantra. If you were on stiff coilovers I might be concerned, but softer lowering springs you'll be fine.

Even with Ksport coilovers with 8k/6k rates our Elantra could have used more rear roll stiffness. On cut H&R Sport springs and regular OTS struts the thing had more body roll than Rosie O'Donnell.

I had picked up some 15x6 Honda steelies that I was going to slice the outer bead/lip off of (at the outside of the dropped center), do the same with some 15x6 GM steelies I had (but at the inside of the dropped center), so I only had to weld once, and I'd end up with a 15x7 steelie. Or a 15x7.5".

Only the GM centers are a smaller diameter.

So, I had Metal Supermarket slice me four strips of 12ga steel to 1.065" wide so I can just band the Honda steelies.  I trial-fitted them when I did all the maintenance, and 1" wider is about flush with the fender at ride height.  Should work dandy.  I just have to fabricate my rim-slicing apparatus.

Springs arrived today.  If I can get the sway bar mounts welded and the bar painted, these will be installed soon.  We're into spring break next week, so I will have a bit of time.

I find this exciting.

More like lowering-spring break AMIRITE?

Sorry,  I'll see myself out. The widened steelies are going to look awesome. 

Gunchsta said:

More like lowering-spring break AMIRITE?

UARERITE!

Before:

Stock rear spring vs. Manzo lowering spring:

Sway bar, welded to brackets, bolted through existing holes in the spring pocket, with adjustability:

Brackets are 5x3" with 1/2" holes every 0.566".  Bar is 36" wide outside-to-outside, with 10" legs.

To be epoxy primed and painted.

Epoxy Primed and Polyurethane Enameled:

Front springs to be installed tomorrow.

Why all the holes, adjustment? Looking at the rear beam I'm surprised a single 3/4" bar like that would make much difference., though I understand that it does

Adjustment, because I did zero math.  I will install it in the middle and see what it does.

The aftermarket bars are 16mm.  This is 19mm.

Interestingly, there is a LOT of twist in the axle itself when I compressed one side to remove and reattach the shock absorber. Like, a LOT.  I am confident the bar will make a notceable difference.

Alternatively, I think a piece of flat plate of varying length u-bolted to the axle bottom (essentially boxing the ends of the inverted "U") would work well too.  Fine-tune what length gives you the resistance you want, then weld it to the U.  I may try that eventually.

I was looking into this recently and two pretty good threads from this forum came up in the search. One of them had some good info on the plate method, if I recall. 

Well, the bar makes a difference. 

I was expecting more of a hatchet-murderer, but it just feels really really good.  When I autocrossed FWD in the past, I tended towards a LOT of rear bar - if I could just stay ahead of the back I could pull off a really good time, otherwise I'd just spin wildly out of control.  This is "playful" but not "white-knuckled."  Considering I likely will never autocross this, It's decent. I may bump it up a notch.

The springs are decent.  If I didn't tell you they were lowering springs, you likely wouldn't know by ride quality alone.  There is a LOT less "porpoising" in gear changes, which is delightful - it was nasty before. I did cut all the bumpstops in half.

The bar:

Before (again), and After:

Doesn't really look "lowered," but does look a whole lot better.

NOTE: The "tube branch" (the phallic philter) I previously removed filters out an annoying tone at idle - keep it installed!

Interested to see you widen steelies, I've got that planned for my challenge car and trying to psych myself up to get it done.

Lowerering looks perfect, hopefully it doesn't settle too much.

First Video: