In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
Now you have to pull the fenders out a bit (the old baseball bat trick). :) Love the illustration, btw.
I have a proper fender roller, but I find I get the best results with a wooden Louisville.
I think they won't rub. We're going to find out.
They rub a little bit. Debating if they are rubbing enough.
My older (15x7) wheels on my wife's car on the left, mine (15x7.5) on right:
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
In the front a little camber would fix a lot of it. In the rear maybe a taller bump stop and rolling the fenders?
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
Hello SkinnyG, I found your thread and ended up reading the whole thing. Those workshop videos have been cool to watch. The matching cars are awesome, especially with the widened steelies. Never heard of that before but it's really cool.
My 2009 Hyundai Accent GLS looks exactly like the pic below (found on Google). It's been awesome to learn about my own car by reading. It inspired me to start doing something of my own, whereupon I settled on foglights. I started wondering what would be required to get a set of OEM foglights installed properly, or as close to factory-style as possible. Do you have it in your heart to do a quick "compare and contrast" between the two cars' electrical systems? I'm hoping to arrive at a ballpark price for each part I need.........Pics are from https://hyundai.oempartsonline.com/. If I'm out of line in asking this just tell me to buzz off....
I would source from a junkyard.
Having said that, I'm thinking of finding some large, round, old-school "driving lights" and then just cutting holes in the bumper/lower-grills until they fit nice.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
That's a good idea; an LKQ nearby has a couple Accents. I'll check it out soon.
If you go through with the driving lights, I look forward to seeing pics of the end result. Seems like it would look pretty neat.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
hey dude
Are you interested in my H&R springs?
You can have them for whatever shipping costs. I checked with with the post office and the site said it would be like $50-$60 from my neck of the woods to yours.
I went back to new stock bushings in my control arms as well and the mechanic that pressed out the big ones said they should be reusable, you can have those to if you want. I would have kept the bushings but I had to cut the back bolt out of the control arm the first time I put them in and didn't want to risk having to do that again when I had to lube them. I'd still be rocking them if i didn't have to worry about lubing the large ones.
Nope.
Back on page 1 of this very thread on my very own car, you saw me put lowering springs in already. I don't need another set.
In reply to SkinnyG :
Yes I have read your thread SkinnyG. I assumed these may be stiffer than the springs you purchased off ebay. I wasn't trying to make money off them I just don't want to see them thrown into a scrap bin, if I could help it.
oh and the steering rack on the sports model does have a quicker ratio steering rack.
also thank you for the help and information and interesting videos .
This just in: 15" steelies widened to 7.5" are too much for the 06-11 Hyundai Accent when lowered.
Fortunately, there is a solution:
This just in!
This sucked:
3/16" plate.
Went down to my favourite round-a-boot, and right back again, and put the 1" SCH40 bar back on:
I might fab one out of 1.25" SCH40...
.
.
Interesting. The 3/16" plate I used definitely helped. Maybe I need to fab a pipe one and try it. The plate one is a little creaky, I can live without that
Video went live today. As always, interesting discussion in the comments by people who know, and people who clearly don't.
I am very pleased with the SCH40 bar I made, and I have plasma-cut new mounts and bought a section of 1-1/4" pipe for bar #6. I'm nervous though, I may buy some 1.5" 3/16 tube and do that first....
I keep getting flack for the bar I make, folks saying this doesn't work. Shape people don't look under the back axle of their old GM 4-link. Same thing - bar clamped to the lower arms. Just the lower arms.
Anyways, here's today's vid. I may weld up bar #5 (big) today, but first I need to replace a stuck open thermostat on the car (it's been -15°C out here lately).
I crunched some numbers.
In theory, the 1" SCH40 bar I have adds 575lb/in of torsional rigidity.
1-1/4" SCH40 would bring me up to 1440lb/in - probably well past the edge of reason.
I have some 1.25" solid round, which when bent should be around 850lb/in. Probably smarter.
Oh dang, I kinda forgot you're still chasing rear bar. I know we're apples and oranges to some extent since I'm doing more track day than autocross in my Accent but after I stole your 7/8" bar design the only thing I've asked of my suspension is more camber to keep the tires up off the sidewalls at a reasonable pressure. But honestly I've put more effort into trying to keep the rods up off the tarmac than anything 
Have you done the beam bushings? There's poly ones around and don't quote me but iirc they're common to the early Veloster? Or is that eating up too much streetability you reckon?
Yes, I keep messing with things, even if they are really good. They could be gooder.
How do you find the 7/8" bar on the track?? 1" SCH40 is really, really nice, and will go on my wife's Accent. I can't really get the back to step out yet.
I have done no poly on this car. I've had poly on ALL my daily drivers since 2001, I'm not a stickler for comfy.
I was reflecting on the 1986 Civic I had when I started autocross - it had a 25mm Lightspeed solid rear bar on it, and it was hilariously fun to drive. The center of the bar was bushinged with muffler clamps to the center of the axle (which was out by the wheels, not close to the chassis like the Accent), and the end-links attached to the tie-down mounts at the back. I don't think I have any mounts for that in the back of the Accent.
Yeah I'm loving the 7/8" on the track. It's just the right amount of loose on lift at corner entry speed and still pretty easily tamed when you squish it back down with the skinny pedal. I've definitely embarrassed guys with some serious hardware in the turns even if every straight is a bloodbath (I've got a Beta out of a Tiburon to drop in there when I'm done with my main winter project though so that'll be slightly better next season). That said when I autocross it here and there it's just a constant battle against the push so I definitely do see why you're still after a stiffer beam.
I've got poly up front (with the caster-addition offset on the front of the arm) and the ol' stock marshmallows out back still, and I'm on GR2s with the H&R springs.
Here have a lap video
In reply to SkinnyG :
OK I have some 3/4" sched 40. I didn't see the length of the arms but I'm guessing you put the sway bar directly under the axle?
I was hoping to find some 1" but it was not 'surplus'.
3/4" SCH40 is not significantly better than 7/8" solid.
Arms are 10"
Bar length (width?) is about 36"
Details of the evolution are here: The Angry Accent's Sway Bars
Back in the day I would use GM G-body front sway bars on the rear of my road racing A2 VW GTIs. The rear beam looks a lot like these Accent axles. They were between 44 and 45 inches eye-to-eye. I bolted two mounting plates to the beam and used GM sway bar bushings and brackets from the local junkyard. G-body bars came in 1/8" increments from 3/4" to 1 1/4" diameter. Back then , the bars were $5 at my local yard. Picture to show the general shape...
That's a good way to go. There isn't much for end links to connect to under this chassis, though. Mind you, it would still be easy to heat and bend the bar to the required shape.
I successfully bent 1.25" cold rolled steel into a U, but forgot to measure if it is actually 36". 1.25" solid, because that's what I have on hand. This should be 50% stiffer than the 1"SCH40 bar I'm currently running.
1.25" is HARD to bend. I recommend welding up a bar of 1.375 x 0.188"wall tubing. It should be about 55% stiffer. I don't have 60" of that sitting around, though.
Bent it, but did not measure. And apparently cannot measure, because it was too narrow. So I un-bent it and rebent it. Too narrow. So I unbent it again and re-bent it. Too narrow. SO I unbent it again. To narrow. Apparently I can't measure.
I decided to just buy 1.375 x 0.188 DOM and make another tube bar.
Except on the way home and to pick up the tube I went "Why the hell am I doing this? The car works just fine the way it is! Leave it alone!"
That should tide me over for a few weeks for now.
Three of us, now at work. I think there's a 4-door on staff, too.
You'll need to log in to post.
