so i accidently bought a car and started a challenge team last night. have questions.

your posting elsewhere but not here so I assume your Not intrested in my help and I will stop looking in every half hour.

Its honestly that i havent had the time to really think through my response yet. Not that im trying to ignore your comments and questions.

Been a damn busy day....

GTXVette wrote: I have a good pressure plate but the Clutch is from a large shaft toploader/Le Mons trans. don't know if your truck trans is the same size input shaft, So is the rad. too small/no fan( I have several electric fans) Is the carb too lean,do a plug check(that can help it overheat) are the seals leaking or Oil staying in the valve cover/comeing out breather. does it Under steer or Lean too much/Sway bar/springs. Oil pressure gauge or compression fitting or line leak? I have an alum. seat Butt is 22" wide measure yours/add hard foam to yours.

Clutch: unknown what failed. Steve thinks pressure plate. I think hydraulics as the clutch release point kept getting closer to the floor, and finally stopped disengagement all together.

Overheat: i think combined problem. Insufficient shrouding. Thermostat is a 195. Water only. E36 M3 built up in the system. 100 degree day on asphalt blacker than space, and no real downtime. We have a 16 inch electric fan, but its not enough. I also think timing is retarded and that isn't helping our case any.

Have not checked plugs on carb tune yet, as they are a pure motherberkeleyer to get to with the headers not being designed for angle plug heads.

Oil leaks: distributor seal. Valve cover breather. Rear seal on trans. Unknown what else, but those are known.

Oil pressure gauge leaks: from the front of the gauge, around tbe bezel. What the ever loving berkeley?

We have some flame retardant 1 inch high density foam for the seat that is currently rolled up in storage. It should help, and we can bend the wings of the seat in a little with a rachet strap to tighted from there if necessary. It honestly feels about 3 inches too wide for me. Dallas and steve didnt mention any issue, so maybe i was imagining it cause im fatter than them.

Chassis: very neutral, but understeers when pushed. From outside, the rear hikes up its skirt quicker than a crackwhore. Hence the reasoning for a rear bar. We are also going to clamp front spirng segments, as the springs are fanning out at the end of tbe run laterally, pivoting around the center bolt. We also feel lowering the back an inch or two more would benifit weight balance and trasfer, as the rear end is significantly higher than the front.

Tires were 25.5 psi front, 26.5 rear, and an even 140 degrees across the surface after our runs.

Gonna skip around some here, you have Spring Sliders in the rear so lower the car by raising the front mounting points, Imagine a U shaped channel mounted above the floorboard at the Rear Hoop of the roll cage, ya know Straight up from the mounts you have now. add more than one set of holes up and down to raise and lower it in 1-2" increments.yes you need to cut through th floor for clearance. it will also change the center of gravity and pinion angle so work on that too

really, even tire temps first time out,cool, only a small sway bar to help it rotate into an Over Steer.

If the clutch wasn't slipping then you are likely right.

make a tube from one valve cover to the other about the hight of the carb 1 to 1.5 inch in dia. mount the breather cap in the middle.I'm sure you have seen that.

try doing a plug check when those headers are HOT, they didn't have Heat shield gloves when I did that,Lol

Timing , Carb, Oil leaks, new pressure Gauge easy peasy

The tire temps really impressed us.

Front eye cant go up. Cage is right there. About 1/4 inch is about all that could change.

Im liking the thought of the old round track style crossover between the valve covers. Good idea.

It took us all night to get the plugs in when the engine was cold. I dknt even want to think about doing it hot. Thats a job to be handwd out in hell.

I would try to improve front grip (relative to rear grip) with tire pressures and alignment settings before adding a rear bar. Rear bar will increase tendency for inside wheelspin exiting corners.

Of course this is an "it depends" situation, as I don't know how bad your current push is and I don't know how bad your current wheelspin situation is.

There is no wheelspin. Couldn't get it to rotate with throttle no matter what i tried. So a reduction in rear traction may benifit front grip.

In an effort NOT to do another Driveshaft, can the bottom legs of the Rear Hoop be cut and leaned forward? OR the springs CAN be angled Inward a couple Inches aka like Control arms and just put the new front Eye mounts Beside the hoop Legs, the procideure is in an Old Circle Track Mag But at least the 1980's You knew I'm an Old Fart right!.

Angry,God I love Corvairs, His air pressure is already HIGH or I would have suggested adding to the rears to Induce wheelspin, DB13, is that a posi or a Spool or God forbid Welded ?(i've seen welded Spiders drop chunks into the ring and pinion) Not a pretty Stop.

Its a ford track lock. Stock explorer limited slip. I honestly believe we have too much rear grip for the available power. Hopefully the three inch lowering blocks will not necessitate a longer drive shaft. On the idea of angling in the leaf spring front pies wouldn't that induce more rolls deer?

If you look there is some angle stock, I think with the rear Eye's in the same place(sliders) It really helps more like lower control arms,and if you Attach the Sway bar to the back (behind axel) even more so. we are talking about an inch and a half each side.

In reply to GTXVette:

You'll have to excuse me it's been a long berkeleying day. I know you're speaking English and I know you're trying to explain to me on the rear grip situation but I just can't see it my head. Can you explain it in a different way?

so the cow pie is refering to your spelling in the post above mine. but re read the post I edited it.

Ah. Got it now.

Looooooong day.....

So, by moving the front eyes inboard, it reduces lateral movement in the rear, as well as attaching the sway bar to the leaves will help in side to side stability. Correct?

well yes and mounted in the rear the sway bar gives a bit more resistance to body roll,I like to see the sway bar mounts as far Out board as Possible.

Alright, now that its a week later....

We went autocrossing. 10 runs total between three drivers. Hit 96 degrees in the shade. Unknown what the temps on course were, as the asphalt is as black as can be. berkeleying nuclear inferno hot. I volunteered to work first and run last. Reason being im on medication that has the warning label of don't be in direct sunlight. It should say “welcome to being a vampire”. After about an hour, im cooked. But the meds work, and I work with the side effects. Anyway, there were 220 cars registered. 4 run groups. Lots of cars...

So, when we got to the track, we set up the pits. Two tents, coolers, chairs, tools, etc. We checked everything over one last time before tech. Only issue they found was that we didn't have our numbers on. Took care of that, and started to look at the course. 20170715_064842 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr Novice walk went well, walked the course four or five times. Big course, few tricky spots. Mostly decreasing radius and slalom sections with some nasty offset components. We started getting Steve fit in the car, doing a nut/bolt/fluid check. Steve ripped the steering wheel off. While I scrambled to find a torx bit so our day wasn't over, Dallas ran up the road to get 10 gallons of race gas. We don't know if this thing needs it or not, but the compression sounds pretty healthy. Better safe than sorry. We all got back at about the same time, and a fellow competitor caught this picture (almost all pictures come from other autocrossers, as we were busier that one armed wallpaper hangers being all professional and scientific and E36 M3). I'm the fat guy in the green gumby shirt in the car. FB_IMG_1500420355945 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr You will notice a CAM class duster in the background. I'm a mopar guy if y'all aint figured that out by now. We pitted next to a guy running two new hemi challengers, invited duster guy (Scott) to join our tent city and share our sandwiches and shade, and had a grand old time. Turns out he knew some of the mopar guys I run with, and had wound up with some of my old parts via them. Small world. 20170715_082008 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr FB_IMG_1500239457296 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr While I was out working, Steve and Dallas started adjusting tire pressures and shaking the car down and seeing what the deal is. Steve picked up 5 seconds throughout his runs, and was able to do a good systems check and make sure the car didn't try to kill us. They also discovered that the thing is a greenhouse in the sun. Dallas had the idea to cover the glass with a packing blanket he found in my truck. Good idea. FB_IMG_1500239716650 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr FB_IMG_1500239375527 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr FB_IMG_1500239389072 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr Dallas ran next, and we worked on tire temps and pressures. We got an even 150 across the slicks at 25.5 psi front, 26.5 rear. Kind of worried that tires never got up to temp, but we never ran out of grip. All Dallas runs were in the low 70 seconds range. Fast guys were in the low 60s and high 50s. We were way off pace, but none of us are very experienced autocrossers. During Dallas runs, we kept getting more and more oil on the ground under the car, and reports of noise from the drive shaft while turning. It also started running like crap at idle, but still rand good enough to keep going. Steve was working course during my runs. I have to say, this car is quite incredible. I couldn't find the limits. Its disturbingly fast, and I couldn't keep up with the car. The driver wasn't fast enough. Very controllable under trail breaking, WFO through any and every sweeper, and only really needed brakes when I took the wrong line. The clutch by this point in the day was engaging very close to the floor, we were having horrendous noises from the flywheel area, I found that the drive shaft was making continual noise, and we lost the ability to find any gear with the trans. Oh, and its incredibly hot and loud. Holy crap. Think of being in a dryer on high heat with about a dozen empty soup cans, some rocks, Metallica, and the battle of Normandy in there with you and you get an idea. But, in my two runs, I ran low 70s while launching in second and trying to keep temps below 220. And learning to drive bias ply, slicks, and an AMC all at once. It stuck like syphilis, pulled like a Mack truck, rode like a Conestoga wagon, took violent and brutal inputs, and left you grinning. Wow what a ride. FB_IMG_1500420364044 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr FB_IMG_1500397992488 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr FB_IMG_1500398043861 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr My last run, in the shutdown lane, I couldn't get it into any gear, or to idle. We called it then. Water temp was at 240, we were all overheated and sun-burnt. Got the car pulled back to our pits, opened some ice water, and smoked a cigarette. Successful first outing in my book. 20170715_150743 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

We got it looked at Friday night. Blockplate is rubbing the flywheel, clutch linkage came out of adjustment due to not tightening the jam nuts. Rear springs need clamped, back end needs lowered. Thermostat stuck. Weld on drive shaft hitting bolt on drive shaft loop. Distributor leaking. Trans leaking from almost every seal.

AWESOME!!!!!!

Sounds like a great day.

So some minor work and it will soon be truly awesome!!

Do you know how much you weigh? I know this is crazy talk but do you have to much tire?

Unknown weight. And possible that we have too much tire.

But we do have plenty of grip!

SUCCESS!!!!! now the mechanical debrief begins...

759NRNG wrote: SUCCESS!!!!! now the mechanical debrief begins...

Few dollars and nights of work and on to the next round of testing. This is the part i suck at. The major build is simple. Working the kinks out kicks my ass every time. Probably why my builds always stop at pretty good, instead of their full potential.

In reply to Dusterbd13:

Take it to a recycler and get a weight. Bonus if you can get a front and rear wheel weight.

Look up under the front end and see if you Can get the Wheels offset a little less to decrese the Scrub radius I know it means a couple more wheels but would Help a lot. Need to scale it. Front can come down too Looked Fantastic. is that steering box Gm Like or ford like might find a faster turning box, A Power steering box is faster

Looks like this beast is a lot of fun; absolutely Gonzo with the slicks hung out in the breeze. Just going to get better and better with every tweak and tune.