In reply to Mykk :
It doesn’t matter if it’s a round tubular type or the flat stock type. What matters is if the trailing arms are in Line or intersect the inner pivot point.
Or you don’t have to have trailing arms if you strengthen the lower arms so the tires stay in alignment under acceleration or braking.
Those are your three choices.
frenchyd said:In reply to Mykk :
You will likely be disappointed with the Jaguar rear end. Here’s why. Unless it’s out of a XKE it most likely is either a 3.07 or a 2.88 and with the tall tires you have, your top speed will approach 160+ mph but acceleration will not be what it could be.
If it did come out of a XKE then you most likely have a 3.31 which will be better for acceleration. If it came from a mid 60’s then you might have the 3.54 ratio which will be better still.
There are three different length dog bones, ( the half shafts on each side of the differential) If you’ll give me your center of the u joint to center distance I’ll tell you which it came out of.
Either way it will be a positraction and you must add the positraction supplement to the oil or you will ruin the positraction. You can buy it at most auto parts stores or from GM dealers.
A t-bucket is so light it could be 1:1 and you wouldn’t notice much. Like a 400 whp turbod ‘Busa. Every gear seems to pull just as hard as 1st. It just does it faster.
Playing with the pedal assembly this weekend. The assembly is meant for a sandrail, and you can see the provided masters have some interference with the exhaust manifolds. The front of the tape line is where the front of the body sits:
Found a set of bolt in masters with smaller reservoirs, I like that the lines point to the rear away from the heat source:
Clearanced the body for the pedal assembly & masters, could have been done cleaner but I want the ability to easily remove the body and keep the mechanicals on the frame:
Put the engine on it's mounting pucks to get a clearer picture of drivetrain height, which increased exhaust to masters clearance:
You can see a bit of drivetrain lean back, the goal will be to have parallel drivetrain to frame, this will not only look cleaner it will give equal U joint angles at trans output and differential.
Parallel drivetrain will also further increase exhaust to master cylinders clearance and I may be able to move pedal assembly forward a bit giving some more leg stretch room. As is it's not terrible.
6'1" size 13 shoes:
How do you plan on sealing off the firewall around the masters?
i envision a panel that they bolt to that bolts to the body. But I would think that just bolting to the body would be not only easier but not be much longer to remove if you ever do want to remove the body.
jfryjfry said:How do you plan on sealing off the firewall around the masters?
i envision a panel that they bolt to that bolts to the body. But I would think that just bolting to the body would be not only easier but not be much longer to remove if you ever do want to remove the body.
It's an open roadster, I don't think sealing it off completely is a necessity. I've got a few ideas to clean it up but I don't see a need to make it weather tight.
Is it weird if I say this thing excites me, um, physically? Really good work on a super cool build
More cutting away of the body to make room for things, got the driveshaft & diff location cut out. Looks funny being offset from center, but the differential input is offset.
Also cut a bit more of that corner out and pulled the pedal assembly forward a bit more after tweaking the pedal arms for clearance, of course all of is subject to change once it gets to final bolt down time.
I picked up these brackets for headlight pedestals, and thing they work quite well for the tails:
I'll be losing the use of this shop space at the end of the month, the car will be in storage in pieces for a month or two until I can acquire another work space to continue. I have gotten a bit scatter brained starting so many parts of the build that once I get going again I plan on tackling one bit of the puzzle at a time until that piece is finished and then moving on to the next. It was good to get this kind of 'mock up' and parts together to get a clearer understanding of how it'll fit together and what it'll look like once it's together, but I'm looking forward to getting more long term work accomplished and I will not let this project get back burnered. It's important to me to reach a goal for this vehicle in the up coming year.
It's an open roadster, I don't think sealing it off completely is a necessity. I've got a few ideas to clean it up but I don't see a need to make it weather tight.
You may be unpleasantly surprised by how much heat will come off that header. I think it will be worth your while to cut out a sheet of metal mounted to the pedal bracket that even if not 'weathertight' will at least be a good windbreak while you're driving and divert that heat around the outside of the body.
When I started putting this thing together in my head I'd always imagined it with a sectioned '32 grill behind the front axle. As a mock up I laid the full length grill in front of the axle leaned back, I am now thinking this is the way to go. It's different for a T and while I'm making up my own rules anything goes. It opens room to fit the water-to-air intercooler in front of the radiator. It cleans up the look. I think it's gonna stay.
it looks awesome. and if it is better functionally as well, then win-win
Oh man I remember seeing this on Stanceworks! Beautiful work!
Agreed. The rake of the grill looks great. Gives it a hint of '33 Ford over tones. 
Nice! I'm an old school rodder & this has "thu look". Power to weight ratio should be quite impressive.
Yep, laid back grill looks great (along with the rest of this crazy build).
After a hiatus I'm back on the project. Losing the use of one shop space, putting everything into storage. A brutal winter in this area. Now found a new shop space and continuing on.
My first time welding. Just tacking in bits until a pro can come in with some real firepower.
Differential mounting:
Differential cross member and seat mounting:
Motor mounts, radius arm mount tabs:
Clutch & brake master/pedal assembly mounting:
Kinda funny seeing how far back the seats sit without a body or drivetrain.
Rear shock mounting:
In reply to Mykk :
What kind of welder do you have now? Do you have 220v?
Your tacks look pretty decent. If your welder can do that thickness of metal I'd get some practice chunks so you can get comfortable, and then do it yourself.
In reply to AWSX1686 :
Thank you, it's a 120v Lincoln MIG 135. I'm more comfortable letting someone with a 230v and experience finalize the welds, even if it's not pretty.
If you find the 3.31 gears too tall I have a very rare set of original Jag 4.27's that would have to be installed in a carrier.
Speaking of Jag carriers, where did you get the finned rear cover?
In reply to Mykk :
Gotcha. Some of that looks a little thick for a 110v machine. Progress is looking good though!
Jesus christ that engine alone makes this thing amazing.
Got me looking at junkyard BMWs.
RichardSIA said:If you find the 3.31 gears too tall I have a very rare set of original Jag 4.27's that would have to be installed in a carrier.
Speaking of Jag carriers, where did you get the finned rear cover?
I would be very interested in your set of 4:27 gears.
In reply to frenchyd :
Selling cheap, $100.00, much less than I paid for them.
Email me at, sia#pyramid.net
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