mazdeuce - Seth said:That's pretty huge.
TWSS
mazdeuce - Seth said:That's pretty huge.
TWSS
Or you could remove the plastic bit that's making it look too short. It's known with the TL with helping reduce coolant temperatures (look up "TL Diet Ultimate Cooling Mod)... although, I guess that doesn't fix the hinges issue
In reply to sleepyhead :
I need to go wander around the junk yard. Take some measurements. Stuff.
mazdeuce - Seth said:
Stock hood weighs 33.5 lbs on my crappy scale.
It's important to note how much your scale looks like a vintage Honda emblem.
It's good to have you home again.
In reply to Woody :
Thanks, it's good to be using wrenches again, even if it's not accomplishing much. 
I was putting dishes away today and it occurred to me that we have a food scale what we never use that gets in my way. The Mazda2 always impressed me with it's attention to weight in every little piece without (mostly) feeling too cheap. Same philosophy they use in the new Miata. Consider every piece and as the Nelsons say, 16 oz make a pound.
Sun visors. Both have lighted mirrors and slidey bits. They weigh 1lb 11oz each. Over three pounds way up high. I need at least a drivers visor for driving stuff, and probably a passenger one so my passengers don't hate me, but I don't need three pounds of them. Something to think about.
I've often wondered how heavy power mirrors really are. These are a shade over three pounds each. I think I'm going to dissect one the next time I go to the junkyard and see where the heavy bits are.
The rear speakers look heavy but they're only a hair over a pound each. They also kind of suck sound wise. I should probably run rear speakers as long as I have rear passengers, which will be a while.
Grilles are light.
And the thing I really wanted to take out, the suspended mass damper from the back shelf. We'll have to see if things get ringy back there. It looks heavier than a pound, but it's only barely. Every pound I can lose for free is a good pound.
Move the mirrors inside mounted on the A pillars, weight moved closer to the center and less drag!
In reply to klodkrawler05 :
That has crossed my mind. Not 100% sure what the inspection place or the local police would say about it. Cleaning up the aero on the car is on the list.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=MIRRORSVINT
I bet any of these are lighter than a powered mirror, lots of choices..... I am sure there are also other vendors as well.
In reply to TED_fiestaHP :
What I really want is a five panel wink mirror. The One Lap civic has one and when I go back to a normal mirror I feel backwards blind.
You need the 2007 Honda Accord hybrid rear diffuser, 74550-SFY-000 part number. They are about $55. It helps with MPG on a normal accord.
In reply to Pbw :
you are 100% right. Now I wonder if the Hybrid that I pulled the hood and bumper supports of had one and I missed it. I pulled the rear pumper cover off, pulled the rear beam, and pulled the aluminum rear knuckles and I don't remember it being there. Big huge thanks for the part number.
Pbw said:You need the 2007 Honda Accord hybrid rear diffuser, 74550-SFY-000 part number. They are about $55. It helps with MPG on a normal accord. D
Do you happen to know if this would fit an odyssey?
In reply to mrwillie :
I can't guarantee it won't fit, but my guess is no. Most of the plastic is fitting around the spare tire well at it looks like it mostly just keeps air from getting caught by the bumper. I can measure the spare tire well on my Accord if you'd like and you can compare it to an Odyssey, but I bet that the well on the Van is quite a lot larger.
The hood prop is heavy, almost a pound. I think it's over engineered. Typical honda.
My question is, what aluminum alloy would you choose to make a hood prop out of? It's 5/16 or .31 in diamater. Lots of solid rod and at least a couple of tubes available in that size.
I vote for adding even more engineering, who says it has to be metal? cut both ends off that prop rod and bond them into a carbon tube (Inspired by FM Keiths camera rig build)
Ideally I'd still get some aluminum tube to deal with the bendy sections so that it would lie under the hood like normal, yes? This sounds like an absolutely stupid way to spend $40 so save 10 ounces. I like it.
well yes, for maximum re-engineering you should probably use some 7075-T6 rod on each end, because it's hard, and it's used for aerospace so it must be good.
I generally stick to 6061 aluminum for my projects because it's cheaper and more readily available which suits me as I'm sort of the measure once rouhly by eyeball, cut 6 times type of person.
mazdeuce - Seth said:The hood prop is heavy, almost a pound. I think it's over engineered. Typical honda.
My question is, what aluminum alloy would you choose to make a hood prop out of? It's 5/16 or .31 in diamater. Lots of solid rod and at least a couple of tubes available in that size.
How about a carbon fiber fishing pole?
How about a removable prop so it's weight doesn't matter?
Daylan C said:How about a removable prop so it's weight doesn't matter?
Actually, he already has a removable prop rod, so it's free too!
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
The standard prop is all bendy to fit where it should fit. Which brings us to Daylans suggestion of a removable prop, which would make the most sense, but I kind of like the elegance of a factory type prop on a car that is daily driven to drag my kids around.
In other thoughts, they still haven't built the Bilsteins that I ordered months and months ago. I'm getting tired of sitting still which has me thinking. Is there any reason I can't put an analog scale under all this, level it out, and use it to get a reasonable approximation of spring rate?
Not looking for three significant digits type of accuracy, but maybe just enough that I could estimate rates to knock together some cheap coilovers?
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
Sounds like a good excuse to buy a laser distance finder to more accurately measure deflection.
I mean, to better measure the kitchen for new cabinets. 
Also, aluminum hood sounds like a good time to strip the paint off, put down a little wrap for glare reduction where it shines into the car, and then polish for ultimate lightness
mazdeuce - Seth said:In reply to MadScientistMatt :
The standard prop is all bendy to fit where it should fit. Which brings us to Daylans suggestion of a removable prop, which would make the most sense, but I kind of like the elegance of a factory type prop on a car that is daily driven to drag my kids around.
In other thoughts, they still haven't built the Bilsteins that I ordered months and months ago. I'm getting tired of sitting still which has me thinking. Is there any reason I can't put an analog scale under all this, level it out, and use it to get a reasonable approximation of spring rate?
Not looking for three significant digits type of accuracy, but maybe just enough that I could estimate rates to knock together some cheap coilovers?
I think you could fashion something up that works like the one in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09wpm0Woe-Y
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
Maybe think about somehow constraining the spring so that when things go sideways (literally), you don't get a nice hole in the wall - but otherwise yeah go for it!
In reply to captainawesome :
That's pretty much the plan. I was going to use the top hat upside down to hold the spring on the bottom and figure something out for the top. Put a scale there instead of the load cell ( I can probably just do the first inch) and figure out how to mount a digital caliper to read the distance as it goes down. Glad to know the idea is solid.
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