I had some Yokohama AVS Intermediates on my FC RX7 back in the day. Those things STUCK!
I had a mustang getting in my E36 M3 one morning so I took a corner really fast and tight. That Stang wagged back and forth one, two, three, and slid backwards into the ditch!
Stripped and cleaned up the engine in the driveway and painted the oil pan. Not going to spend much time on the aluminum block and heads as they cleaned up decent enough. I had it tilted up and drained the remaining oil and antifreeze out of it.
Engine is back in the car, will come up and down a few times as I fit my headers and replace the old motor mounts, but the old ones are fine for me to get a measurement for the driveshaft. I drop that off tomorrow to get the R200 yoke installed on the T5 driveshaft and balanced and also dropping off my wheels get the new tires installed. Found some cracks in the headers under the header wrap, so will be doing some welding, but they are solid and not rusty so will reuse them again. I'll also have to play around with the steering but expected that. The valve covers will stay on the engine until I get the Rover pieces polished. Should be running and driving by the end of April.
Welded up my headers today. Was pretty upset that the one was cracked as I really did not want to buy another set but it looks like it will be fine now that it is welded. Also sandblasted the convertible top frame and painted it up, ordered all the hardware and webbing from TRF to get it installed in the car. I found a new convertible top on the Triumph forum for cheap, will pick it up on Virginia soon or may have to ship it because of the lockdown.
In reply to dherr (Forum Supporter) :
You're making great progress. if you get a chance, could you post several more pics of your engine bay? Did you cut the firewall for engine installation? Hoe do those engine mounts look from a different angle? Howd you route your steering? Did you go dual curcuci with the brakes?
I hope your hand heals up real fast.
Good timing on the questions as the basic stripped engine is back in the car so you can see it better without all the accessories. No cuts on the firewall, it was very surprising how it all fit together. My car had been restored so I was not about to do any major cuts on the body other than to trim the fender wells around the front suspension. All close but it does fit.
The motor mounts come up from the center crossmember and bolt to it as well as have a piece that runs to the original motor mount bolt location as below. I am using Rover V8 motor mounts, but you will need something more substantial for that LS!
Finally steering, what a pain in the rear. I have a tab welded on the frame where the support bolts on and it can be shimmed up or down as well as move in or out to clear (barely) the headers. you will want block hugger headers or build your own as the space between the front suspension is tight. I used Borgeson steering components to convert from the Triumph rack to D shaft and then back to Triumph at the steering wheel straight section. Not cheap, but I think there are more alternatives available now then what was available back in 2003.
On the hand front, the skin is healing nicely, amazing what a good surgeon can do to stitch up a big wound. The thumb hurts but that is because despite the brace limiting the overall movement, I have still been working on the car and probably a little too much. I go back next week for the stitches to be removed and find out what restrictions I will have. Hoping for no physical therapy and just the brace for a few more weeks.
I will also be modifying the TR4A shock tower brace to go around the V8, as I had left it off last time, but feel it should be there so I'll make a custom one.
In reply to dherr (Forum Supporter) :
Two comments:
1. You do nice work! Maybe you can light a fire under Lepkowski's ass...
2. Maybe more for Indy-Guy than you, FYI Sweet Mfg makes steering u-joints, shafts, racks, etc, high quality and reasonable prices IMO.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to dherr (Forum Supporter) :
Two comments:
1. You do nice work! Maybe you can light a fire under Lepkowski's ass...
2. Maybe more for Indy-Guy than you, FYI Sweet Mfg makes steering u-joints, shafts, racks, etc, high quality and reasonable prices IMO.
Thanks! But all I can get Lepkowski to do is drink, he is still in the middle of high school activities with his kids at this point in his life. Cars will come a few years from now for him.
I figured someone would have a better source for steering parts.
Had a day of yard work to do, so got my car stuff done on Saturday and spent today in the yard. So first off was to work on the front brakes. I had upgraded them previously to Toyota truck 4 piston calipers which is a common TR upgrade. My version went one step further and rather than use the stock rotors, Toyota Cressida front rotors are the same bolt spacing and just need to have the inside machined a tiny amount to bolt to the front hubs. Gives you a vented rotor and works if you use the later Toyota truck calipers that are wider for vented rotors. Mine had rusted over the years and I did not have one side shimmed properly, so it had rubbed on the rotor and scored the inside a little bit. So I figured I would just have them turned. Well that was and education as I was quoted $147 to turn them. I can buy new ones for $16 each, so I ordered two new rotors, will be here on Wednesday. This time I'll paint the centers so they don't rust. I also blasted the calipers and painted with black caliper paint. Blasted and welded the block hugger headers and painted with 1400 degree header paint and heat treated them in the grill this afternoon. I also painted the fuel tank, blasted and painted the convertible top frame and installed the TR4A windshield cap. I went to seal the tank and found out JEGS had sold me the wrong kit, as it was the small kit for a motorcycle and not the one for a 12 gallon tank. So I'll have to get them to ship me a replacement this week so I can get the tank sealed and run the fuel lines. I also fixed an issue where the remote oil filter hoses had to go around the steering rack due to how close they are. I had a oil leak once when a hose wore through from rubbing on the rack. I had "fixed it" with a 2nd rubber hose tie wrapped to the primary hose to insulate it from the rack, but that was not a good fix. A proper fix is a 45 degree fitting to keep the hose above the rack and prevent the issue.
I also fit the rear wheels to make sure they all fit fine with the new times and all the new rear suspension pieces. Kind of funny seeing it sit with positive camber after all those years with a solid axle.
This should be a big week as I pick up the drive shaft tomorrow at lunch and that means I can install the headers, engine mounts, bolt it all back in the engine compartment and connect the drive shaft to complete all the drivetrain. Then I can finish the front brakes and then work on the engine top end and wiring and fuel system and we will be very close to driving this again. Pictures later this week.
Picked up the driveshaft yesterday. Got to give some props to Fleetpride. I gave them my custom Chevy to Triumph driveshaft that had been made up by alluminumv8.com and brought an Infinity Q45 axle and told them I needed it cut down to 27 inches, Chevy to Infinity (Nissan). The Infinity has non-replaceable u-joints so they cut down my driveshaft, welded on a new Infinity yoke and installed a replaceable U-joint and balanced it for $121. I paid well over $300 for my driveshaft for the Miata to Subaru custom drive shaft, which was all new, but still I'll use these folks in the future for sure.
Was opening the pool yesterday, so did not work on the car until the evening, but had to see if it fit, bolted right in without any issues! That now completes the entire rear drivetrain/suspension/driveshaft conversion to the R200 LSD, which was the bulk of my goals for this project. I'll now work on getting the engine, exhaust and wiring cleaned up and the front brakes and wrap this project up.
So last night and this morning I got the header on the drivers side of the engine as it is easier to install this side before the engine is mounted. Got it installed, and the engine now sitting on the new mounts. I'll bolt it down over lunch and then center the transmission mount and the drivetrain will now be completely re-installed! I am replacing the intake and valley gasket as it is delaminating and had some concerns that it might be doing the same thing on the inside. Was pleased to see that it was fine and nice to see how clean my engine is on the inside. This rebuild probably only has 15k miles on it, so will be great to get it on the road again. I have to drill and tap the intake for the temp switch for the electric radiator fan and then this can be buttoned up. I should have the matching Rover script valve cover from Australia soon so I can polish them and replace the ugly black TR8 valve covers currently on the engine.
Indy-Guy said:In reply to dherr (Forum Supporter) :
You're making great progress. if you get a chance, could you post several more pics of your engine bay? Did you cut the firewall for engine installation? Hoe do those engine mounts look from a different angle? Howd you route your steering? Did you go dual curcuci with the brakes?
I hope your hand heals up real fast.
Now that the engine is in the car properly, here are some better pictures of the motor mounts. Bolts through the frame cross member and also into the original bolt locations for the original motor mounts. Also, hand is much better, stitches removed yesterday, hand in the brace for one more week but while it slows me down, it has not stopped me 
Get a load of the stick-out for the accessory drive and fan! Would that be like 10" or so?
Just measured it and it is 7" from the face of the block to the outer edge of the pulley. The front cover for these things is huge as it contains the distributor drive, water pump, oil pump and timing chain. Keep in mind these V8's are tiny at 215 cubic inches so it looks bigger in the picture but your point is taken that this adds considerable length to the overall engine. That lower oil pump location has caused me problems with the steering rack but I think I have the solution for this time around.
Looking good!
dherr (Forum Supporter) said:I will also be modifying the TR4A shock tower brace to go around the V8, as I had left it off last time, but feel it should be there so I'll make a custom one.
I can speak from experience that the shock tower brace serves an important function. Years ago, a friend's TR4 sagged a lot on one side, and we found that the shock tower brace was missing.
Yes, I am trying to figure out how to make it work, the orginal one will definitely not work, may have to do two bars towards the front.
Today I did the front brakes, which are my version of the Toyota 4x4 calipers, but the wider version with a Toyota Cressida vented rotor. Inexpensive big brake kit, painted the rebuilt calipers and the centers of the new rotors so they don't rust. I also installed the front radiator support, bumper supports and re-installed the fog lights.
This past week has been working on the details. It amazes me that you can strip a car in a few days, but it takes real time to put it all back together. So been working on each system. Weekend was focused on sealing the fuel tank as it has a small leak in the seam. KBS kit with cleaner, acid etch and then the sealer. Came out really nice, so installed it on Monday and ran a stainless wrapped fuel line down the frame. Cleaned up and reinstalled the exhaust, will change out some of the clamps and mounts, but happy with how it clears the IRS as this was a dual exhaust from a TR4A solid axle and I had some concerns on using it with the IRS, so no issues. Installed the clutch slave and lines and then finished installing the front brake hard lines. Had to make up a new piece to go from the junction to the passenger side front, as it runs along the top of the frame, under the engine and mounts and then up to the caliper. Much happier with the new line. Installed all the front bumper supports and fog lights and mounted the remote oil filter assembly, the lines now all run over the top of the steering rack which is a much better solution. Installed the intake gasket, manifold and carb and linkages and some of the heater lines. Tapped the thermostat neck for the switch for the electric fan, will finish the cooling system and radiator and then work on the wiring.
Hand update, had the stitches removed last Tuesday, doc said to take it easy for one more week and keep using the brace, so first day with it off was yesterday. Going well, muscles are still hurting but no limited movement or nerve damage. Got lucky here but will have a hell of a scar to remind me for the rest of my life to be careful as it only takes one second for an accident to happen.
Super clean work. All the black paint makes it look very natural, almost factory.
Work looks good, and I'm glad to hear your hand is healing up well.
Very cool and I don't care what anyone says, I love those Aluminum Buick motors. That little car will be a dream to drive. We miss our Discovery II.
Thanks and I agree with you, the original 3.5 Buick/Rover engines are quite nice. The later engines have liner problems, but these early engines are solid. The car was great to drive before, now it will just do it better and with more refinement as I have fixed or did things better the 2nd time around. I followed the "Tuning Rover V8 Engines" book by David Hardcastle and was built for 215-220 HP at the wheels with great heads, cam, high compression, etc....
I've driven an MGB with a similar Rover engine and it was a hoot. Much faster in a straight line than the fuel injected autocross TR6 I used to drive, particularly at lower RPMs. It makes highway driving much more relaxed as well. This is a nice conversion.
dherr (Forum Supporter) said:SNIP
Cleaned up and reinstalled the exhaust, will change out some of the clamps and mounts, but happy with how it clears the IRS as this was a dual exhaust from a TR4A solid axle and I had some concerns on using it with the IRS, so no issues. m
My impression was that the difference between the twin rear muffler system and cross muffler system was early- versus late-production. I didn't think either was just for IRS, for instance. I had 2 '67 TR4A sold-axle cars. The one I bought in 1973 must have been stock with the single cross muffler system. The '67 I bought as a parts car (but put it back on the road) had the earlier front muffler and after the Y-pipe in the rear, had 2 small straight-pipes. I can only guess that it came stock with the earlier exhaust system (but somebody went cheap with the twin rear pipes). I owned it in the early 1980s. I recall it's commission number was 2000 or so lower than my other '67.
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