While waiting for the blizzard to end last night I modified a few photos to work out wing mounting which led to contemplating building new flairs. Too bad sculpting a 3D 1800 is outside of my cad abilities. I have been trying to learn me some wing theory, but it is way over my math abilities and I still want to build a P-51 Mustang laminar flow wing unless someone can give me a better option. I only have 140hp to work with and already lost a ton of speed with the tires and flares, so no high drag wings for me. At least I don't have to slow down for corners anymore, but too bad there isn't a corner within 400 miles from me. :)
That is one wild looking P1800. I think the rear wing in the last pic will fit right in.
The kind of cool thing about building a canyon carver is that rules do not apply. And after inventing the Fast and Furious 40 years ago, back when the future of motor sports was very iffy, and luckily, engineering technology pulled though and going fast is very ecologically clean and efficient. Your welcome. The nearest track to me, living near the exact center of North America is 400 miles away at Brainerd Raceway, Minnesota, but if I ever actually get this thing going again, I will take it there and do a track day.
Thanks AngryCorvair, that rear wing view is the same as the silhouettes, scaled to the photo, off of the license plate. Let me just say that it was a blast to drive in the mountains. I had a two page driving record, the cops were so impressed, that instead of the usual reckless driving ticket, I only got an exhibition driving ticket and a thank you for stopping. I always replied, "Thanks for the Ticket."
Here is the original photo that I drew the cad silhouette view from.
So, I found a student of imagery over at BrickBoard that Photoshopped a photo of my 1800, altering it to move the passenger compartment/greenhouse back 6" to stretch the engine compartment enough to place the 6 cylinder into the 1800 structure with no compromises and also using the 164's shortened floorplan and substructure to illustrate how Volvo could have continued the 1800 namesake into the late 1970's while still continuing the Volvo safety containment structures of the new era, but alas, I lost it when I refused to pay Photobucket their ransom to keep my account. Too bad they came out with their turbo Red Block a few years later after I started to build this thing.
maybe, VolvoClearingHouse want's to build the ultimate "Volvo" 1800?
Also, nobody would ever ride with with me twice, I don't understand why, but I had to let them drive the second time... they drove just like me that time anyway and it's impossible to not drive at 6000rpm at every shift and going double the speed limit into every corner. lol
The tinwork required to elegantly move the greenhouse back 6" would be impressive. Is this something you plan on doing?
lol nohome, no, I am too tired to want to do this stuff at my stage in life, all's that I want to do is inspire someone else with more ambition to build this stuff, I only want a ride. I bet that the guy that grafted an 1800es body onto a Miata chassis with his talent and resources could easily accomplish this simple task.
My whole goal in life was to build an 1800 that could keep up with the cheaper Porches, Dachshunds 280z, and Corvettes. I did. You only thought that you where going to die riding in it.
"Alas, If only I wasn't half blind with no depth perception and really slow reflexes, I would have been a really great race car driver." (And had a win or die mentality).
Volvo really screwed the pooch when they abandoned their sports car. The 1800 was a beautiful great design and if they had used everything in their arsenal, Volvo to this day would rival BMW as the world's great sports sedan leader. Their front suspension design was light years ahead of bmw's.
I am torn, I have a complete spare engine, I could build a high compression cammed naturally aspirated engine AND a trunk mounted twin turbo stock low compression engine with totally separate intake/exhaust, so, (2) turbo 3 cylinder engines in one block. Just think of the sound of the exhaust with NO mufflers. :))
The suckiest thing of it all was that back in the 70's I called IPD, the Volvo specialty company about buying the hot B30 cam for racing 164 sedans and after telling the phone salesman that I had a B30 1800 6 cylinder, he said, "That's impossible and nobody has ever stuffed a Volvo 6 banger engine into an 1800", and then he hung up on me.
Ok, over on the aerodynamics section Laminar Flow Wing, I am trying to come up with a wing for the 1800 and have come up with this idea to attach the support uprights to the outside of the rear steel flares which were my first (and only) attempt ever at doing flares and worked but after much thought, I want to do them over with lots of improvements.
37 years ago after cutting out the wheel wells to stuff widened stock steel Volvo wheels on, I had to quickly cover them to keep the cops from pulling me over and for some reason I figured out that by cutting out sheet metal semi-circles twice as wide as the outside small diameter I wanted and once winding the metal around to the wanted diameter I would come up with a 45 degree flare. It worked but I don't know if it really is a 45 degree angle.
I want to make the wheel openings larger and higher up on the body to fix several aesthetic and interference issues. I will have to change the flare angle in the front to keep it on the fender and am trying to figure out what pattern diameter to use to wind up with a 60 degree flare compared to the wheel. After looking on the internet, I guess it is a 30 degree truncated cone I am trying to build.
I have found an online calculator which will layout the pattern from inputs of small diameter, large diameter, and perpendicular height. Frustum (Truncated Cone) Calculator
To all of you math whizzes, is there a simple formula that will let me layout a flat pattern knowing the small diameter of the truncated cone and the desired angle?
I want to build a gizmo that will bolt onto the axle studs and trace out a line on the fenders that I could then cut out and the truncated cone flare would pass beyond the cut so that I can just weld the intersection between the flare and the fender. This would be built with nesting brass tubing that can be bought at rc airplane hobby shops.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
I bet that the guy that grafted an 1800es body onto a Miata chassis with his talent and resources could easily accomplish this simple task.
Yeah, that would be me. Thanks for the compliment. Was out out testing the mudgruards a couple of days ago.
As to inspiring me to do another? Not for myself. Currently keeping busy incarnating other peoples crazy ideas; lot easier on the wallet.
Ha ha, thanks guys, but I am pretty sure I can fab everything up (no compound curves), I just need a simple math problem solved although with that cone calculator and the fact that AutoCAD does basic trig I probably don't need the math either. I also have to wait until the temperature in my unheated garage warms up above 10 degrees F. I will build the protractor thingy out of wood and the above nested brass tubing. If I was to ever run 240 volts into my garage, I could try out the Hobart 180 watt wire feed welder I bought 30 years ago and have never plugged in. LOL
Here are a couple more 3D drawings, I need to work on the angle the fine tipped marker is angled so that it is in the same plane as the telescoping brass tubes and the top of the flare 1/2" steel rod. I also am worried about the extending tube with the marker rotating and not staying aligned as the telescoping tube is slid in and out to follow the contour of the car body. I will use a 1/4" aluminum wheel spacer to bolt to the axles and just cut out some wood to attach the brass tubing and for the pivot point blocks.
How do people go about deciding on a preliminary starting psi for their tires when running on a track or autocross when using a much wider tire size than would normally be used on the car? I am going to be using Hankook Ventus H101 All-Season Tires - (rear) 295/50R15 105S with a load and psi limit of (2061 lbs @ 44 psi max) and (front) 265/50R15 (1720 lbs @ 44 psi). Also, what is the difference between race tires and street tires pressure when using the same size tires? (I do own an infrared temp gun which is about 2 degrees +/- compared to other guns)
Let's just guess at a 50/50 weight balance and total weight of 2600# giving me 515# per corner on the rear and 430# per corner on the front tires rated for a hippy van rating of 1720# or 25% of the total? 25% x 44psi = ~11#. 
When I was using BF Goodrich TA radials of the same size on the street, I just guessed at 30 psi and the tire wear was very even on the back but because of extreme negative camber on the front that was not correctable because of the extreme lowering was very worn on the inside edge. I have only run on the street or Gymkhanas and have never been on a track.
In the mountains (decades ago), the balance was perfect and I could take curves at twice the posted speed limit and I could easily change from over to under steer by just using the gas pedal. Most roads where unfamiliar to me, so I have never experience entering one with too much speed and only experienced them under acceleration.
Well, holy crap. So, since my last postings, I have had lower back surgery with laminectomies on L1 through L5, a great toe fusion, and a major heart attack followed by stent inserts followed by triple bypass after our last blizzard in March. After a couple of years, I almost thought that I could get up off the ground after crawling under my cars. Just for E36 M3s and giggles, help me design a 3 liter non-cross flow, cast iron block with cam in head, cast crank and rods, Twin Tubo charged Volvo 1800 with a B30 engine. Two turbos mounted in the trunk with no inter cooler, and with the dual Mitsubishi TDO3 turbos from a Kubota diesel pump motor. I would use a rear differential oil cooler, fan, and pump for the trunk mount turbos.
I want 300 HP. 
I will post a video of a turbo B30 as soon as I find it.
LOL, I asked and someone guessed that the crank broke right at the end. :)
What does 644hk, 808nm mean?
VolvoHeretic said:What does 644hk, 808nm mean?
808Nm is 808 Newton-meters, a measure of torque. I'm guessing hk is Scandanavian country's measurement of power (like hp or kw)
In reply to ish_da :
To be clear, this is a 6 cylinder B30 engine. 
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