corsepervita said:
I have no life.
That is what led me down this path as well.
My tune has the skip shift eliminator in it thankfully. I'm interested in seeing the ignition fix.
corsepervita said:
I have no life.
That is what led me down this path as well.
My tune has the skip shift eliminator in it thankfully. I'm interested in seeing the ignition fix.
Alright, standby, currently working on a wiring diagram for this steering lock bypass.
Lemme tell ya what, it's not a $50-70 unit.
The parts cost about $4.
Alright, so, what the hell is in one of these bypass units. I figured "What the hell, I'll buy one and use it, but I am REALLY curious how these are justified to be so much."
1 relay. 2 resistors.
Yep. That's literally it. Oh and... half a gluestick lol. I'm kind of surprised no one actually would put this at least on some board, but it's incredibly minimal.
Part # is ee2-12SNU - low signal relay
From the manufacturer's publicly free data source.
And the resistors... 300 and 500 ohms.
How does it go together?
So from what I can see here is that the connections are all bridged, which is odd, but... whatever. I'm guessing maybe that's just to have more contacts.
So we've got your power, and your switch (red, white).
In the off position, without the relay powered, we can see that we are literally just going between different resistors. With the power off, we've got the 500 ohms of resistance.
Once power is given to the relay, the back connection opens, and it closes, using the 300 ohm resistor instead. So, assuming we've got some form of resistance in either the ground, or the green is actually a 5v wire, the resistor will change the resistance value one way or the other depending on if the circuit is opened or closed.
That's it, that's all she wrote. Like... $2-3 worth of parts here.
Haven't installed it yet - will do that soon. Wanted to at least get this out there first.
My new balance shoes showed up today you guys.
corsepervita said:My new balance shoes showed up today you guys.
YESSSSSSS
best pic of the thread
In reply to corsepervita :
Lmao oh hell
Makes me want to get a wrx Monster flatbill hat and a vape pen.
Sweet shoes! What power mods do you consider mild? 
JAdams said:Sweet shoes! What power mods do you consider mild?
I was thinking probably cam, longtube headers, intake, tune.
Really wanna do suspension though because this car handles well but I feel like it could handle even better.
Leather corvette bomber jacket is ordered already, right?
Your shoes make me happy I no longer own a Vette.
yupididit said:Makes me want to get a wrx Monster flatbill hat and a vape pen
When I bought my new PoS 2016 wrx, santa monica subaru gave them for free
when i bought my 1989 subaru justy, 1988 gl-10, and 1981 DL wagon, never got any
yupididit said:Makes me want to get a wrx Monster flatbill hat and a vape pen.
I've seen this guy. I could even get a photo of him, but if I posted it here and he found out, he'd probably be angry.
Ok so the steering lock bypass is done and that was a piece of cake. Took me /maybe/ 15 minutes tops.
Step 1. Sit in the car with the keys near. Press the button to go into accessory mode. Listen for the steering wheel to unlock.
Step 2. Make sure the steering wheel is unlocked. You can do this.... by turning the steering wheel :P
Step 3. Lower the steering wheel all the way, telescope it forward all the way. On each side of the gauge cluster, grab the silver piece that has the buttons on it for things like the fuel, menu adjust etc. You'll pull these and the gauge cluster will snap out. Then work your way around the sides (helps if the door is open since the whole thing pops out).
Step 4. Take these two plugs out on the right side (the start switch and the plug next to it)
Now... all the videos I saw online said "take ALL the plugs out of your dash and pull the whole gauge cluster out" but I found... you JUST need to do these two.
Step 5. Unscrew the 4 screws holding the actual gauge cluster in. As you pull it out, carefully route the cable that is coming off your gauge cluster on the right side out and behind it, this will allow you to fully lay the gauge cluster COVER on the dash, and then pull the gauge cluster out at an angle, and you can fully access the box to bypass the steering wheel lock.
Step 6. Exposed, you'll now see this little box hanging off of the slice of cast metal. It pulls up, and out, and can be moved towards you so that you can access this plug with ease. Push down on the hook, pull it out. Put your steering wheel bypass lock in place, put it on the other side of it, and put the whole thing back in place.
Step 7. Put the gauge cluster back in, route the cable back down so it's out of the way, pulling the gauge cover back down a little. Put the plugs back in the gauge cover. Put the cover back on.
Annnnnnnnnnd you're done. That's literally it. Test all your buttons, make sure they all work, should be golden. Don't forget to raise the wheel back up where it needs to be and push your home button and blammo, ready to go.
Side note: I decided since this is my first proxy car, I would design a faraday cage key box for my car.
Bought this faraday mesh on amazon. $12.99
Filament? Eh, a few bucks worth.
Used a few magnets to hold it together. Entire stack is $18.99.
Held in place with the magnets, no need to slide up or down or do anything weird. Line the box inside with the mesh. install the magnets, insert.
Screw box into wall. Place key on hook. Grab box, grab keys. Put key on hook, put box cover back on. No key signal.
Put my phone in the mesh to test it, and even right next to the router, couldn't get a wifi signal. Put some earbuds in there, couldn't get them to pair. Tried a bluetooth scanner on my phone, couldn't get any type of signal in the mesh.
No concern for relay thievery here. I'll post the box once it's completed.
Alright so... the box is nearly done.
I figured "You know if i really want to test this, I need to make sure the frequencies i'm testing against match the fob."
So I did some research and found out that on the chevy keyfobs for the c6, they are 125khz from car to fob which is.... drumroll.... RFID CHIPS.
And fob to car is 315mhz which is pretty standard for fobs. This explains the "proxy" part of the fob, it's literally just picking up RFID near the car.
So I purchased a 125khz receiver board with antenna, and a 315mhz receiver. What I'll do is hook them up to an arduino and spit out anything they pick up locally and then put them on some prototyping board and once this faraday keyholder box is done, I can properly test fob and rfid frequencies to see if they still get through it. Then I can see if I need to add more mesh, or install another finer mesh with it.
Pretty freaking stoked.
Now, the terrifying part about this is that I managed to pick up the 315mhz receiver as a kit (it came with a transmitter), and I was reading online that a lot of these shiny happy people who steal cars with the whole relay theft thing "were able to make somethign that could do it for about $20-30". Well.... the rfid receiver is about mmm $10 and the 315mhz transmitter and receiver were $6.99. Add on an arduino uno or something for $10 and yeah, pretty close. I could see how people with bad intentions to be a bad actor and had some skill could be real shiny happy people. Now, not all fobs are 315, some are 400+ and some are closer to 350, but that's why I decided to make something like this, because if I /can/ end up protecting against these frequencies and keep my keys safe, I'll just throw the berkeleying stl up on thingiverse and people can print them out and make them for themselves and sleep better at night.
Whelp - alternator took a dump and sounds like it's clubbing itself to death. Definitely a bearing going out. Parts on the way.
On the flip side: Got the faraday keybox prototype finished. Have a few changes I want to make to it to make it a little better, but the concept and prototype works. I have a bunch of different RFID tools for readers/writers on the way so I can test signal strength and things like that. But most importantly, it works!
Here's a video of it in demonstration, along with a metal box to bust the "MeTaL BoXeS ArE jUsT As GoOd" myth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxsrDykjijc
Following. Just sold a 991S and bought a '07 C6, LeMans Blue. She's a little rough around the edges, but perfect for a track car that gets driven to the track. Currently leaks like the Exon Valdez due, I suspect to some tomfoolery in the catch can plumbing.
Good luck with your C6.
maj75 (Forum Supporter) said:Following. Just sold a 991S and bought a '07 C6, LeMans Blue. She's a little rough around the edges, but perfect for a track car that gets driven to the track. Currently leaks like the Exon Valdez due, I suspect to some tomfoolery in the catch can plumbing.
Good luck with your C6.
Welcome, fellow Porsche deconverter! Loving my C6 so far. Sorry to hear yours is leaking. At least they are much easier to get to things than the 997 or 991. I haven't installed my catch can yet but will this week.
This thread is lacking in Corvette logo members only jackets.
AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) said:This thread is lacking in Corvette logo members only jackets.
LOL
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