Worthwhile trailer upgrades

I have an 18' deck open econotrailer that I bought new a couple years ago, and now that I know just how much stuff you can end up bringing to the race track with you, I'm thinking about improvements that can be made for not a ton of money. I  like the idea of weatherproof storage on the trailer somewhere, so that I can keep straps, a jack and at least a pair of stands with the trailer at all times, plus a tire rack would be helpful since my truck bed is only 5.'

The bolt onto the tongue storage boxes are kind of expensive for now inelegant they are, so I've been thinking about having recessed boxes built into the tongue beams with hinged lids, or even using the first 3 feet of the deck area to build in a storage box that's a couple feet tall with a tire rack on top. I'm mainly towing one of the RX-7s, so there's plenty of deck space left.

Basically, what upgrades have all of you made to your trailers to make a race weekend easier, and what things aren't worth the time? Are there any downsides to a dedicated tire rack up front other than more aero drag? 
Reference photo of the trailer:

I was always concerned about what a tire rack would do to the tongue weight, but then I've never weighed anything on the trailer, so maybe there's nothing to worry about.

For some storage, I bolted on some pressure treated boards to the triangle section between the front of the deck and the jack and then bolted down a regular weatherproof storage bin.

That bin also holds the battery and the wiring for the winch.  The only thing that I might have done differently is put a little more space between the box and the winch.

Which brings me to the winch.  Wow, is that nice to have.

Using deck space seems logical, but limits how far forward you can place the car. If you don't have enough weight there, I wonder if it is possible to have too little tongue weight?

I bought a pickup toolbox off Craiglist and installed it on the tongue. Lots more storage space than the typical triangular ones and I found it cheap. The front two feet of the deck has a tire rack, raised up to about the top of the toolbox. I used it this way for 25 or more years. If there are tires on the rack , the front of the car is protected from road debris by the overhall height of the box and tires.

I haven't done it, but I saw a guy weld a receiver hitch on the front of the trailer bed.  He pulled a winch out of his truck that was attached to a drop down hitch, slip it into the receiver, plugged it into the trailer lights and pulled a car up.  The winch is out of the elements and the eyes of thieves.  Good idea.

That looks very similar to the car trailer I have. 

A winch is a requirement for me on at least one trailer. It can drag all kinds of things up on the trailer. I don't carry a battery on the trailer because it was dead more than it was charged. I carry a long set of jumper cables that will reach the battery on the tow vehicle. 

Tongue boxes are super handy. I have 4 trailers and all of them have boxes for straps except the enclosed trailer. 

Spend some quality time on your lights. Hooking up a trailer and having the lights not work is a pain. Most of my trailers have a conduit run down the middle and across the back for wiring. I'm not a fan of strapping it to the frame with zip ties.

I am also a big fan of mounting the lights in a way they can't be backed into things and broken. This set is better than 30 years old with zero damage. 

As mentioned above, a winch.  Mine is permanently attached, with a battery on the trailer

I have a Harbor Freight toolbox on the tongue (https://www.harborfreight.com/2-34-cu-ft-steel-trailer-tongue-box-62253.html) that the following is housed in:

Wheel straps (for wrapping around a wheel / control arms)

Decent sized (8 ton? 20 ton? can't remember) bottle jack

Ratcheting Tie Down Straps

Wheel Chock

Corded Winch remote ( I keep the wireless remote / receiver in my truck)

One snatch block / shackle

Battery for the winch is mounted inside one of these (which is mounted inside the box) which has Anderson Connectors, 12V Aux Power, and USB Power, and a toggle switch

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_MTBA890

On top of the tool box lid is a solar panel to keep the battery charged

(https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Portable-Waterproof-Maintainer-conversion/dp/B07JLWFPX6/ref=sr_1_13?crid=JNU0CVEX543F&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Hekrbp8RtVUl6xcljiV-NK_siA48-oY3DguUDa1bKAWv4d6XxB4uZOkm8P-iuhS1c6z0cmPK7Iw-YszVr7zhgx3e3KYbhpZKm0sgJpy05eeStD88ZMtEuEOPVdBMvizvw0tpySPflXmGB0E_HnxpxXLijj8vgvYhH_hjKdY3BByH4RIe0SZ78QBNkxGPEPwwOHI8frtQ1jarDtvTMPBJxqT1E20Fh_-uNPQaT3ySpNw.hBismR8wTwmiO7xGxCHjHn-ju2yrXgZMq47Y0f8CJ_E&dib_tag=se&keywords=solar+panel&qid=1705415623&sprefix=solar+panel%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-13_

I will also be running additional 12V power to the trailer battery from the truck (since I have a dual battery tray now) via Anderson Connectors this spring.

My trailer has stake pockets, so we have DIY wooden race ramps that store in the aft most stake pockets on either side.  Steel ramps slide underneath the deck, from the side

Another helpful addition is 2 LED pod lights mounted on the front most beam, pointed backwards, along with reverse lights on the back of the trailer (wired to a switch on the battery box).  Helps alot for backing up at night

Lastly, I have a Bluetooth TPMS kit that has enough range to reach into the cab of the truck so that I can keep an eye on trailer tire pressures.  Receiver plugs into cigarette lighter, and has hi / low pressure (and temp) warnings

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LA8LL12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In reply to HotNotch :

That solar charger is not nearly as expensive as I would've guessed. Do you have a bottle jack because it reaches higher than a normal floor jack? I like the LED light idea, I thought it would be nice to wire up some lights that assist with strapping the car down in the dark too.

Toyman! said:

I carry a long set of jumper cables that will reach the battery on the tow vehicle. 

When I had an open trailer, I ran some welding cable from the battery down the frame of the truck to an "Anderson" DC connector under the rear bumper with a matching connector on the winch.  Way more convenient than jumper cables, plus I could put a fuse in it.

In reply to dannyp84 :

The solar charger works pretty well for my use case, I have the trailer stored at a buddy's house so it sees sunlight most of the time.

I forgot to add, there is a downward facing light at the tongue too, which is really nice for hooking up in the dark.

The bottle jack is smaller, fits in the box, and has higher weight capacity.  A few years ago I had to change a tire on the side of the interstate on my dad's 20 footer with my Toyota Crawler on it, and the regular automotive hydraulic jack struggled between the weight of the truck and the trailer.  Even with a lighter car, a 3 Ton unit may not have the easiest of time, and it doesn't fit in the box.

When I go autocrossing I always have my 1.5 ton aluminum jack with me, but the bottle jack is a permanent addition to the trailer kit.

I also keep one axle's worth of wheel bearings pre-greased and ready to go in the toolbox, just in case there is any need for a roadside repair.

In reply to codrus (Forum Supporter) :

I considered that but I have 4 different tow vehicles, the Touareg, the Suburban, the H3T, and the EndOver. I don't want to have to wire all of them. As long as the jumper cables stay in the trailer box, I can run the winch with whatever vehicle I happen to be pulling it with. 

If I build another trailer I will put a receiver on the back of the trailer , 

it can be used for a bike rack , mount for winch if you need to drag something out of the bushes ,  

and  maybe you need to back the trailer into an area that you cannot get your truck  out of that corner .