Quick radiator removal. This should be easy right?

It has more hoses going to it than my heart has arteries.

Finally got it disconnected and out of the car.

Uh, oh! Where's the isolator mount? Is this replaceable?

Off to the radiator shop for a re-core. Hopefully they can use the end tanks and side brackets.

Finally found a replacement for that decomposing breather hose.

OE exhaust bolts. How conscientious is that?

Can't wait to get the radiator back for the shop and start driving this thing.

teamilluminata wrote: This is my new to me 85 URQ I recently purchased from a friend. He was very kind to store the car over the winter at his facility till the weather was more conducive for driving it the 90 minutes to my shop. Great guy, thanks again for a great car. So here is what I know about the car according to the previous owner: "One of the best examples of the classic ur quattro available. Very rare Canadian car. Original Tornado Red paint with black leather interior. 1 of only 17 quattros imported to Canada in 1985! Desirable and rare non-sunroof version. 167,000 KM. Clear Michigan title. Retains original metric instruments - I did not convert anything when I imported this car to the USA. Over the course of the past 3 years, this car has been totally sorted out by Phil at Auto Europe in Birmingham. Phil was an Audi mechanic back when these cars were brand new. I basically gave him permission to check and correct anything that needed attention. The car was great when I bought it, but it's even better now! New hard fuel lines, clutch and slave cylinders, hydraulic bomb, alternator, starter, water pump, timing belt. tires, battery, master cylinder, rear differential bushing, center driveshaft bearing, etc., etc. The car has a modified head and a modified ECU to allow use of the Euro wastegate spring. A joy to drive. This must be what it was like to drive one of these cars brand new. No rattles or squeaks. Strong performer." Certainly couldn't take issue with any of that and I've known the PO for a few years as a customer at my shop and when I worked at Auto Europe. I was just starting to think about buying a classic when this showed up. I thought I might import an Opel Manta from Europe. That's the car I had when I moved to the US around 20 years ago. I thought it was time to get one back. But then I saw this and it was obvious this was the car I should have. I grew up watching Group B rally in the forests in England and the quattro has always been my favorite Group B monster. Just the noise alone is enough to get my heart racing. Indeed, as I like to tell people, this car is why I now own a motorsports business and race RallyCross, autocross etc. Plus, it would be good that the car stay in Michigan where Curt could keep an eye on it. I’ve had the car here for a couple of months now and driven it a number of times. My goals for the car are to keep it in its original condition while fixing some of its issues and not-quite-original features. My list is already long but does not reflect the condition of the car but my mental condition of list making and nit-picking. Here are the highlights of what needs attention IMHO: Oil change Passenger door lock inoperative Driver’s window seal loose Handbrake boot fits poorly Fuel leak smell Passenger window sticks at 2” drop Pass seat adjuster loose Vent broken center dash Passenger door pocket coming away Rear diff damp-reseal Right rear wheel creaks Wipers slow Gearbox play, mounts? Rust spots, leading edge of hood, and fender in engine bay Wrong headlights A/C removed, engine bay, replace Trunk carpet screws missing Engine under tray missing right side Radio too new and blingy Upper front strut mounts loose Rear brake lines rusty Front ball joints Lower control arm bushings iffy Left front cv boot getting brittle Volts-volt and oil temp meters behave oddly Door carpet coming away Non-original steering wheel Trunk strut inoperative. Key fob light Exhaust crooked Jack missing Speaker cover loose Non-original speakers I might need help with some of these. Prepare yourselves for many questions. Obviously some of these are urgent and necessary, others trivial nit-picking but you can’t beat having a list. I’m sure it will grow rather than shrink even if I do check some off. I still find it immensely ironic that, considering that I’m so into rally, have a rally related business and love to drive sideways that I bought a car that I can neither drive in the snow or on the dirt. I guess I’ll have to limit my fun to wet roundabouts, the three or four that exist in SE Michigan. I may do the odd autocross in it or maybe a track day. Do they have track days for classics? I already took it round Waterford Hills track at the recent track day but only during the parade laps at lunchtime. Twas quite fun. Probably, this is what I’ll do most with the car. Just take it to local motorsport events and shows so people can enjoy seeing it. I am going to slap some BRAID wheels on it and a discreet windshield banner in white “BRAIDUSA.com” though as it has to earn it’s keep somehow. These are the wheels that are on the boat right now. What do you think? I chose them because they are very reminiscent of the works wheels used on the S1, at least in my opinion. I ordered them in the same specs as the originals. I’ll use the Kumho 225/50-15 tires that came on the OE Ronals. Curt also gave me a set of BFG 215/50-15 which was the OE size but I’m not sure what to do with those yet. Hopefully I’ll remember to update this page with news of the cars development and outings. Meanwhile, if you have any questions or suggestions let me know. I’m all ears.

congratulation dear, really looking nice..............

Re-cored UR Quattro radiator. I asked them not to paint it but now have to decide what to do to it. I was hoping to retain the original look with some of the black paint still on the top with the aged brass showing through but it rather got cleaned off in the process. Do I need to paint the core or can I leave the whole thing raw?

Mat black other wise it will turn green. ;)

I think the core is copper but the top brass. The core might go green but wont the top go dark brown?

So I decided not to paint anything, just threw it back into the car and drove it to the local track event by way of a shakedown. I hope everyone's cool with that.

Next on the list is to figure out why my washers don't work anymore. Low flow, just dribbles out. I also need to get the anti roll bar back on, detail it and rebalance the wheels. Then, hopefully, I can enjoy the car for a few months, so long as the clutch lasts. It feels awefully high on the pedal lately.

Well, looks like I haven't updated this thread for a while. I'm going to use the excuse that I have been driving the car instead of working on it. Who'd have thought?

I did finally get the anti roll bar back on. Had to order parts from the UK. I couldn't find OE bushings so had to settle for upgraded poly versions. I'm sure they are better but are a bit blue.

I also had to buy a pair of anti roll bar endlinks with bushings from the UK to replace the one I broke during disassembly. The very first nut I tried to remove during the suspension rebuild.

I did put the original wheels back on for the summer

so my friend Tim could put my BRAIDs on his as he was headed to Pike's Peak and didn't have any "proper wheels".

Not a bad bit of exposure for the brand.

I managed to snag a replacement clutch in case mine gives out on me soon. It does feel quite high on the pedal now but is not slipping; yet.

So with the car pretty much back together I have enjoyed driving it around for a few uneventful months and parking it next to other interesting vehicles (apparently).

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8575/27779420064_5fbfe31102_c.jpg

So next on the agenda is to fix the washers as they are quite lame one coolant leak. OE gasket came in today. $3! must be the cheapest quattro fix ever.

Hopefully the car will stay together till winter when I think we may be putting a clutch in it. How hard could that be?

Hi, just reveiwed this thread and hoprfully I may be able to help with your post from July 2011. Have you sorted the gear engagement issue? ETKA states that some of the connector rods should still be available (from the UK), so let me know if this helps. Did you also find that the seal in the filler cap really solved you fuel smell problem? Let me know as I have the same problem. Best regards, you have a great car!!!

Hi Bob.

I replaced the rubber bushing above the selector but the stabilizer bar on the end is till a bit worn. Supossed to be NLA but if I could get one I'd be happy.

Gas cap seal made no difference. New gas cap fixed the problem though. Fuel was leaking through it.

I think my BRAID Serie 6 RC wheels look much better on my mate Tim's car than mine.

So i'm thinking of getting some Serie 4 RC instead.

Here's another option. I could get BRAID to make some 9x15 RONAL replicas like these:

Of course they'd have to make more than one set. Anyone else interested

OK, it's a GO. I'm getting some 15x9 Ronals!

We have teamed up with HANSPORT http://www.hansport.co.uk/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; in the UK and BRAID Wheels http://www.braid.es/wheels/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; in Barcelona to offer classic Audi replica rally wheels in the original specs starting with the 15x9 Ronal originally used on the Sport quattro.

These wheels will be heat treated cast aluminium, 15x9, ET12, 5x112 with a 57.1 center bore, white powder coat finish. Other colours will be available at extra cost.

These wheels will be sold exclusively through Hansport. Team Illuminata Motorsport, through our subsidiary BRAID USA will manage the project. Price is not yet set but expected to be around £500/$800/620€ each. Available as a minimum order of four wheels with no maximum. Delivered anywhere in the world. 50% deposit due with order, balance before delivery.

The main thread for this project will be http://www.quattroforum.com/index.php?threads/alloy-wheel-manufacture-could-be-back-on-the-cards.17945/#post-159948. Please post any questions and orders there or contact Hansport or myself direct.

BRAID have been making high quality, competition wheels in Europe since 1978. They offer a full range of competition wheels for all forms of motorsport and classic cars. BRAID wheels are specifically designed for competition but, of course, are equally at home on the street. Many of BRAID's are cast from lightweight aluminum and heat treated for maximum strength. Others use forged or flowcast technology. BRAID already produce many ultra-high quality replica wheels for customers including Porsche 911 Fuchs, Ferrari F40 and Lancia 037.

Hansport was founded by John Hanlon in 1996 to restore, prepare and provide on-event support for an ever increasing personal collection of historic competition cars. The HanSport Team combines the talents of engineers who insist upon excellence, have a true understanding and passion for motorsport, together with it's history. Over the years, HanSport have prepared cars which have subsequently been piloted by many World Championship Winning drivers, such as Hannu Mikkola, Michèle Mouton, Stig Blomqvist, Jimmy McRae and Harald Demuth; to name just a few. HanSport currently own the largest collection of factory Group B Audis in the world and are based in Manchester, England; my home town.

Not much interest in 15x9 Ronal replicas.

How about 16x9?

Finally got the car out now all the salt has washed off the roads.

So, I drove all three of these today, not at the same time, and, after pondering over a cup of tea I think I have concluded that, at least on the street, I prefer to drive the Quattro!

Here's some pictures of the meet we took the cars too:

The Quattro has been running like a champ so not much to report. That and the fact that I am currently obsessed with our 911 RallyCross project means that all I have are pictures. Still; PICTURES.

I took the car to watch the local autocross at the Silverdome in Pontiac. It prefers watching (and being admired).

As much as I love driving this car it is almost as pleasurable to watch it being driven.

Then last week a car show; my first. Motorstadt 10. I hung out with the chaps from Audi USA who brought some more modern icons along. Won something too. Not sure exactly what. Best red Quattro perhaps?

I have a Cars and Coffee thing tomorrow. Maybe something will break so I'll have more interesting posts next week.

Have a great weekend.

phone dial wheels on 80s cars are teh sex

kanaric wrote: phone dial wheels on 80s cars are teh sex

Interesting thought. That's a Lancia 037 replica wheel. I wonder what else it might look cool on. 911? Quattro?

Here's an excellent video Winding Road Magazine's Chris Amos made of our UR Quattro.

Unfortunately I think this was about the last time the car would idle. Doesn't seem to matter if it's cold or warm, just dies, but not all at once. It takes a few seconds then it will start right up again. I can keep it running with my foot but once I let off it splutters to a halt. I think this as been coming on all year. In the spring it would die when cold if left it running a few minutes to warm up. I tweaked the throttle stop screw as a temporary fix but I think it might be time to get greasy.

I took the plugs out and cleaned them but that didn't help.

I took the cold idle valve off the back of the head and sprayed some brake cleaner through it. Also tested it's operation with 12V. Closed up after about a minute. Put it back on but no different.

Took off the alien's head and checked the position of the air sensor plate. Seemed fine. Cleaned out what little dirt there was inside.

Pulled a couple of injectors, maybe three. At least one has a bad seal. Not replaced them yet. Is it easy? Could this cause bad idle?

I have been reading up on the K-Jetronic fuel injection. It seems quite straightforward but lots of vacuum hoses and other components. I'm thinking of just refurbishing the whole thing. That feels like a winter project so for now I'd just like to get it running some so I can drive it a few times before we run out of season.

Any suggestions?

Dear God that's beautiful

After ordering some new (correct) spark plugs and injector seals I brought the car into the main shop and started a concerted poking around to try to figure out why it wont idle. You'd think this might have something to do with it. air temperature sensor.

I removed the throttle body and cleaned it out paying particular attention to the air bypass screw which I think allows it to idle.

I made some interesting observations:

There's a hole in the throttle plate. The air bypass screw was fully closed The arm that actuates the idle and full throttle micro switches was loose. Wouldn't operate the full throttle switch at all. I peened it firm with a small hammer. Both switches appear to function as intended and are wired correctly.

I put it all back together but it didn't make any difference to the idle, even after backing out the air bypass screw a full turn :(

.

I had a little time yesterday so I pulled the injectors with a view to installing new seals. Here is what I found:

1

2

3

4

5

I was surprised only #2 was really torn up though the rest look quite done. Of course the most alarming discovery was on #4 which is missing a tip! Looking at it it may have been off for some time but where is it and how long is any bodies guess. If it fell off into he intake port it can't be good right? Could it get past a valve into a cylinder. Out again and into the turbo? Pass right through without doing any harm?

I did install new seals and, perhaps foolishly started it up to see if they made a difference. I hoped it was safe based on how aged the area where the tip had been looked. It still didn't idle and I don't think it made any strange noises.

Next step?

So I had another look at the odd injector over the weekend and it turns out to have the same part number as the other four: 0 437 502 041. All the pictures I find of it show an end cap (air shroud) so now I think I must have one floating around in my intake or stuck at the end of the inject insert. I don't think it's in the insert as that one injector has quite a lot of lateral play when inserted so is at least not locating in the cap.

So now I feel I should take the intake manifold off or the head or even the engine out. I f I take the engine out I could also fix a lot of leaks, replace engine mounts, clutch etc. Maybe I can even get it to idle again!

What do you think?

Great car. I'm amazed at how nice it is.

I'd spend a bit of time checking the wiring harness before pulling the intake manifold (an '86 5000CS we worked on that had a no-warm-start and overrich-cold-idle habit turned out to be a melted wiring harness from a botched stereo install, and you already had a broken IAT wire) but that missing injector cap is terrifying.

With these cars an idle problem usually seems to be a combination of many different things breaking down over the 30+ years it's been owned, and I wouldn't be terribly surprised if there were also some vacuum leaks hanging around still.

I assume you've already read this article about CIS-E idle problems? Most of it should apply to "regular" K-Jet. http://www.scirocco.org/tech/16v/ciseidle/cise_idle_p1.html

Holy "late to the party!"

I don't know how I missed this thread, (and I'm afraid I have no experience with Ur Quattros to help you troubleshoot) but keep up the good work.

You're driving one of my dream cars!

Back from Europe and inspired to get the Quattro running again.

Before I went away I had my Friend Werner look over the engine and we agreed the best course of action was to totally refurbish the CIS system as it has been messed with over the years, is not as Audi intended and looks to have some very dodgy vacuum lines. We thought the best approach was to remove the engine to do this as I also want to take the head off to find the bits of missing injector and replace the clutch. But first, and today I did a compression test:

At least I now know the head is coming off. Hopefully the problem is with the valves on #1 as I have a refurbished head already. Just over 100,000 miles on the block so that should be OK.

I found specs online that suggest stock compression should be from 100-130psi so the rest of the cylinders look pretty good.

So here we go with the next big project. Hopefully it wont take too long as I'd like to drive the car this season. Here is the scope and issues I hope to resolve in the process:

starting and idling issues Injector holder Coolant leak Boost issue Shifter link Alignment Tune up cat joint leak engine mounts Drive line shunt clutch Belts Check timing Timing belt cover missing Cracked exhaust manifold? Oil Leaks Hot starting Plastic pipe broken engine bay spark plug wires wrong Fuel pipe orientation wrong

Wish me luck.