frenchyd said:In reply to crankwalk :
Are they still in production in India? A few years ago I almost bought one of the made in India version until I looked closely at the rather poor recreations.
I have found NOS BSA parts and I've used these Emgo ones on an A65 and they weren't made in India as of maybe a few years ago.
These would look great out the back of an old Jag.
A similar look to this:
I did a search and found some Taiwanese made ones, at about $75 a pop. I'd feel guilty using NOS pieces for something like this.
If they eliminate the unpleasant sound they are a great solution.
You are right, it’s a driver quality not a show piece.
Since I’m a racer not a concourse Judge I too have been known to not worry about originality but what will work within my budget.
i have wayy more hours into this then I care to mention
Outstanding work
Looks fantastic, how’s it sound?
In reply to HundredDollarCar :
much quieter then anticipated at least lightly revving in the shop. i have a feeling on the road will be a little different
In reply to malibuguy :
I'm looking forward to it, both for the auditory qualities and for the reduced cabin exhaust exposure.
I also really appreciate the play-by-play texts while the work was progressing. Malibuguy's attention to detail and communication throughout the work was outstanding. I can honestly say I've never had any shop or professional go to that level.
In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
I really does look nice. I suspect in addition to sound quality you’ll pick up a few horsepower.
Unrelated question: I have been looking at the wheel situation on the car. Some of the wheels are missing spokes and make noise. Looking at used wheels, it appears there were a couple of different types- a 5" and a 6", both wire wheels (wire wheels on the car now and I want to keep that look). It looks like the 6" were XKE wheels. Are they all interchangeable? I think they are all 72 spoke. i don't really care if they're 5" or 6", As long as they fit and don't rub or anything.
In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
i'd find out if Dayton makes a close-enough match and start saving up for them. or talk to someone in the BMTA.
AngryCorvair said:In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
i'd find out if Dayton makes a close-enough match and start saving up for them. or talk to someone in the BMTA.
The dayton wheels are about 400 each. Sold via the usual places (XK's unlimited, etc). There's several sizes, and it looks like some interchangeability. I don't need to spend 1600 on wheels, though; used I can get for about half, as as long as they're in decent shape and not missing any spokes, I don't care if they're a bit dull or scratched.
volvoclearinghouse said:AngryCorvair said:In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
i'd find out if Dayton makes a close-enough match and start saving up for them. or talk to someone in the BMTA.
The dayton wheels are about 400 each. Sold via the usual places (XK's unlimited, etc). There's several sizes, and it looks like some interchangeability. I don't need to spend 1600 on wheels, though; used I can get for about half, as as long as they're in decent shape and not missing any spokes, I don't care if they're a bit dull or scratched.
Check to see if Triumph TR4 spoke wheels interchange. I've got a set sitting here that I'd let go for a very reasonable amount.
In reply to volvoclearinghouse :Yes they are all 72 spoke Rudge 54 hub. Most were chrome. Some were painted . MSW is the supplier of the Dunlop wheels it originally had. They are really an excellent wheel, actually superior to the original.
Dayton makes a really nice wheel too it’s main claim to superiority is you can run them with tubeless tires and if you want there is a massive variety of things you can do. The Dayton has a forged hub that reportedly is longer lived than the original but since the hubs wear out too it really doesn’t give you anything.
The spokes are stainless steel and somehow they claim as strong as the original high tensile original . The rims are available in steel and aluminum.
Both Dayton and MSW have a web site. Moss motors is the American distributor of MSW while Dayton sells direct.
Used wheels can be tuned up with broken spokes replaced. Spokes are cheap and if you have patience the best way to save a wheel although there are people who will do it for you, at a price,
the stock hub on the Dunlop style wheel is called a curly hub it comes in 5&1/2 rim width. Later hubs in the series 3 XKE are smooth ( not curly) and 6 inch wide.
Always use anti sieze on both the knock off threads and splines of the hubs. ( except the tapered tightening cone )
There is an abundance of good usable wheels in restoration shops and garages average selling price is $100 a wheel for a good but not perfect chrome rim.
I’ve bought them as low as $50 in slightly tatty shape but you’d be amazed how nice you can get them looking with chrome polish and some time
Indy-Guy said:volvoclearinghouse said:AngryCorvair said:In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
i'd find out if Dayton makes a close-enough match and start saving up for them. or talk to someone in the BMTA.
The dayton wheels are about 400 each. Sold via the usual places (XK's unlimited, etc). There's several sizes, and it looks like some interchangeability. I don't need to spend 1600 on wheels, though; used I can get for about half, as as long as they're in decent shape and not missing any spokes, I don't care if they're a bit dull or scratched.
Check to see if Triumph TR4 spoke wheels interchange. I've got a set sitting here that I'd let go for a very reasonable amount.
Nope the MG triumph etc are Rudge 48. Jaguar is Rudge 54
In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
A couple of additional points. Find yourself a used dodgy hub. Maybe the splines are worn a bit or the bearings spun in it etc. machine it even with the flange the brake disk mounts on. Then grab the dodgiest knock off you have one where a gorilla bashed the ears and you’d be embarrassed to have it on your car ( but make sure it’s off the same side as the hub you are using ;-)
Drill a large diameter (3”+ ) hole in the center. Now you can mount and remove tires on equipment in any tire shop, gas station, etc.
Otherwise they will stick the wheel on and shove the spud up against the spokes probably bending maybe breaking them. Carry it on your spare. Now the spud will go in one of the holes that used to hold the brake disk.
In reply to frenchyd :
If the splines are worn and you have a few bent or missing spokes, don’t bother! If the wheel is still reasonably straight with little run out and the splines are OK you can replace 5-6 spokes at a max.
Replacing bent and broken spokes. Buy a spoke wrench. Snap - On makes the best one, no It’s not sold as a spoke wrench, I’ll have to go home and see what part number it is and size.
Moss and XK unlimited sell them too.
Spray penetrating fluid at the joint where the spoke meets the nipple, do them all. Every night for a week. Peel the tape/ rubber spoke protector off and do each one on the inside too.
They will be rusty.
On really bad ones I spray penetrating oil on and then I will use a propane torch to heat them up a little. Then respray the joint with penetrating fluid while they are still warm. ( helps draw the fluid into the threads)
Before you remove the wheel from the hub, give it a spin and see how straight it is and how much ( if any) run out it has. If it’s reasonably straight and little or no run out this won’t be too hard at all.
Replacing bent and missing spokes is done with the tire off. I know I should have said that first , sorry.
You can tune them on a front hub. Or mount a front hub on a bench and do the job sitting at a comfortable height.
When I say tune them, that’s exactly what you do. Tap each spoke in the middle and if you are lucky you will hear the same think think think 72 times. If you hear a lower Thunk that’s a loose spoke. And it needs a little tightening. Tighten a little and tap. You’ll hear it come into tune. Tighten tap thunk
tighten tap thunk ( but just a little bit higher)
until you hear that sweet think.
Now spin it and see if the wobble and run out are gone. And you are done.
Replacing the spoke Yup, you’ll have to bend it slightly to get it in the nipple hole. Don’t worry Tightening it will pull the spoke straight.
In reply to frenchyd :
Thanks for all the tips. I called a few wheel shops around here and none of them will touch wire wheels. I've had relatively poor luck messing with spokes on bicycle wheels so I wonder if my luck would be any better with these. I don't even know where to buy new spokes.
I may just buy some second hand wheels without missing spokes - chrome on mine is pretty pitted rusty anyway. Sounds like any 72 spoke wheel will work. Any fitment issues with the 5" vs 6" wide wheels on a '66 3.8S?
A In reply to frenchyd :
How to polish chrome wire wheels. First select a good movie on TV then get a clean piece of cardboard about 30x30 to set the wheel and tire on.
Grab a beer ( wine in my case) rags, Q tips, some ultra fine ( 0000) steel woola little car wax and some chrome polish.
Start on the back side, turn on the TV, go to work. Tear a couple of strips to wrap around the spokes. Get them full of polish and go up and down the spoke and nipple then using clean strips remove the polish I find old wash clothes torn into strips to work the best. The polish applicators are used and thrown away but the polish removers I put in the wash when SWMBO does my shop towels and rags. Same with the big rags I use for large areas.
With experience you will learn when to use Q tips and when to just poke your fingers in. HINT: when the tips of your fingers are sore you will use more Q tips. The fine steel wool is for the little spots of rust popping through the chrome. Then chrome polish followed with a little car wax.
I find a typical 2 hour movie will polish 2 wheels The first time you do it it will take you longer and your fingers will get more sore. I did it every Vintage race. Car show people do it every show and seldom get the wheels dirty!!!!!!!
XK’s Unlimited volvoclearinghouse said:In reply to frenchyd :
Thanks for all the tips. I called a few wheel shops around here and none of them will touch wire wheels. I've had relatively poor luck messing with spokes on bicycle wheels so I wonder if my luck would be any better with these. I don't even know where to buy new spokes.
I may just buy some second hand wheels without missing spokes - chrome on mine is pretty pitted rusty anyway. Sounds like any 72 spoke wheel will work. Any fitment issues with the 5" vs 6" wide wheels on a '66 3.8S?
No. There are Rudge 48 72 spoke wheels and Rudge 54 72 spoke wheels
Only the bigger hubs will work on your splines.
I’ve never seen the series 3 wheels on the sedan but they should fit. They are only 1/2 inch wider. The size tire will have a bigger impact than the wheel.
XKs unlimited, Welch Jag, Terry’s Jag. All sell chrome spokes.
In reply to frenchyd :
What did the Rudge 48 wheels come on? So I can avoid them. I assume the E types were Rudge 54's?
volvoclearinghouse said:In reply to frenchyd :
What did the Rudge 48 wheels come on? So I can avoid them. I assume the E types were Rudge 54's?
MG Triumph Ferrari, Austin Healey, Early Cobra, Morgan, just about any British car except Jaguar
were all Rudge 48.
Jaguar was all Rudge 54
I don’t know about Aston Martin.
In reply to frenchyd :
Thanks for the help. I made an offer on the second one and the seller countered with a reasonable offer, so I bit. 4 wheels coming my way.
I played with the Jag last night in the garage...big band music playing on the radio. Discovered- yup- the float on the rear carb was sunk. I extracted it (they aren't attached to the top, they just free float up and down) and after drainig it I soldered over the pinhole leak. Presto, car runs great! Made a 5 mile test loop last night, and it sounds as good as it runs.
There's a Cars n Coffee this weekend near me....the plan is to get Mrs VCH's '68 Camaro and my '66 Jag shinied up and head out there Sunday morning. Anyone who wants to meet us in Mt. Airy, MD at 8AM come on down!
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